臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

　　市面上常見的電腦輔助服裝設計軟體泰半多為提供使用者在平面衣版進行設計、編修、縮放等功能，電腦上所設計的版型仍須仰賴專業打版師的經驗經多次試誤才得開發新成品。
　　因此本研究以電腦來輔助設計三維服飾以達自動化的目的，藉由曲面的展開法，將設計好的立體衣身曲面展開至平面，並藉由導入服飾設計專家的經驗與知識，提供各種版型之拘束條件，對網格進行排列靠攏以自動產生版型。且為了減少各網格間的間距，藉由局部網格的靠攏，將網格裂縫累積並集中至褶子處，用以模擬傳統版型設計上之開褶。
　　本研究藉由打版專家的經驗，改進了腰褶的產生公式與流程並訂定靠攏的拘束條件、開褶位置與份量，並藉由研發以單一網格為主的靠攏方法，來進行肩褶、袖襱褶、脅邊褶等斜向開褶效果。利用不同開褶位置減少實際輸出衣版創造原始設計曲面的差異量，提高服飾的合身度創造優美的穿著曲線。並進行分析以求證各種因素對版型結果之影響，最後提供檔案格式可讓自動產生的版型輸出至常用的二維版型處理軟體，以便後續編修與輸出。

　　Most of the commercial computer-aided garment design software provides the functions of two-dimensional pattern design, modification and scaling on simply 2D pattern design. The software only can be operated with experienced designers. With many times of try-and-error, designers just can develop new products.
　　In this research, we use computer to design three-dimensional garments to reach the purpose of automation. We unfold designed garments into plane with curved surface flattening method. Joining the knowledge and experience of professional garments designers provides various types of constrain conditions for patterns and aligns lattices to produce flattening patterns automatically. In order to reduce the gaps between lattices, we develop a local lattice alignment method that can gather the gaps together into one large gap. This method is just like darts and pleats in traditional pattern making.
　　In this research, we collect the pattern making experts’ experiences to fix the formula and .the procedure of WaistFittingDarts and to decide which constrain condition to be used, where darts produced and how long they will take. We also develop a single lattice principal alignment method to produce shoulder darts, ArmscyeDarts and BustFittingDarts. With different position of darts, we can reduce the divergence between patterns and original designed surfaces. It can also make garments more close to bodies and show elegant curves when wearing them. Furthermore, we analyze various factors that may influence the results of flattening patterns. Finally, this research provides file formats that can be outputted to two-dimensional pattern making software to edit details.

目次

中文摘要………………………………………………………………………I
Abstract………………………………………………………………………II
謝誌……………………………………………………………………………IV
目次……………………………………………………………………………V
圖次……………………………………………………………………………VIII
表次……………………………………………………………………………XII
第一章 序論………………………………………………………………1
1-1 研究發展環境………………………………………………………2
1-2 研究目的…………………………………………………………4
1-3 研究動機…………………………………………………………5
1-4 論文架構…………………………………………………………6
第二章 相關文獻回顧……………………………………………………8
2-1 服飾設計軟體……………………………………………………8
2-2 相關研究文獻……………………………………………………15
2-3 打版專家知識擷取……………………………………………27
第三章 系統架構及整體規劃……………………………………………30
3-1 軟體開發環境……………………………………………………30
3-2 程式發展原則……………………………………………………31
3-3 程式發展目標……………………………………………………33
3-4 程式架構…………………………………………………………35
3-5 程式執行流程……………………………………………………36
3-6 使用者介面展示…………………………………………………38
第四章 自動化版型產生…………………………………………………44
4-1 網格攤平評估法…………………………………………………44
4-2 網格靠攏名詞定義………………………………………………53
4-3 網格靠攏拘束條件………………………………………………55
4-4衣版初始展開與特徵說明………………………………………62
4-5 衣身前後片版型產生…………………………………………66
4-6 領形版型產生……………………………………………………72
第五章 褶子產生與衣版輸出………………………………………………………76
5-1 腰褶………………………………………………………………76
5-1-1腰褶產生方式……………………………………………78
5-1-2裂開間距分析……………………………………………87
5-1-3終點不存在之腰褶………………………………………91
5-2 脅邊褶、袖籠褶、肩褶…………………………………………97
5-2-1斜向褶之設定……………………………………………98
5-2-2資料結構…………………………………………………102
5-2-3靠攏結果…………………………………………………104
5-3各種條件影響衣版之差異比較………………………………106
5-3-1褶子的搭配………………………………………………106
5-3-2網格面積的大小…………………………………………111
5-3-3不同模特兒………………………………………………114
5-4輸出DXF檔案格式……………………………………………116
5-4-1 DXF檔案格式分析……………………………………117
5-4-2 DXF檔案架構模式……………………………………118
5-4-3 DXF檔案實作輸出……………………………………121
5-5實作結果………………………………………………………123
第六章 討論與未來展望………………………………………………126
6-1 本研究貢獻……………………………………………………126
6-2 結果討論………………………………………………………128
6-3 研究限制………………………………………………………130
6-4 未來展望………………………………………………………131
參考文獻…………………………………………………………………134
自述………………………………………………………………………139
著作權聲明………………………………………………………………140

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參考網址：
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