臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

人出門可以不用帶電腦或手機，但是絕對不可能不穿衣服和不穿鞋子走出家門，之所以當科技業快速的起飛與殞落，台灣的紡織業就像在背後一個默默穩定支撐臺灣經濟體的一部份，人家說傳產是夕陽產業已經說30年了，但是為何沒有消失殆盡？台灣紡織品在運動品牌市場上卻是佔有一半以上的比例，台灣紡織已經不是30年前的傳產，而是另類的高科技業。

仁美公司所生產的布標，雖然小小一塊，但是在每天日常生活當中都會在每一項產品中出現，如：衣服、帽子、包包、毛巾、領帶、鞋子…等，無所不在，不起眼的商標，卻是有著35年以上的提花技術經驗在裡頭，仁美固守著布標的領域，進一步開始研發提花布料，並且研發腳步一直是領先同業，在一片式鞋面布尚未流行的時候，就已經開發出各項驚艷的產品，近幾年正好搭上人工高漲的浪潮，各大品牌指定選用並且順利量產，但是平織提花布料有先天結構缺陷並且尚未突破，我開始改造原先的提花組織，讓單純的布料擁有3D立體效果，並且與專業的原料廠商開發適合提花布料所使用的抗菌除臭紗線置入鞋面，布料表面為了增加耐磨耗，與專業塗布廠商研發適合的藥劑和塗布技術，進而讓提花布料更有機能性，擁有耐磨耗，防撥水，抗菌除臭，並且一片式鞋面布的設計在鞋廠製程上大大降低人工成本，也讓品牌提高利潤，此研發案成功也讓仁美繼續領先業界

Despite how important 3C products are in people's daily life, wearing cloths and shoes is still more essential than having an iPhone. No individual can live without apparel and footwear, and Taiwanese textile manufacturers continue to lead the market and contribute greatly to Taiwan's economy. Comparing to IT industry that had a high growth rate and public awareness, textile industry seems to be declining and struggling. However, this so-called sunset industry, which was not encouraged by government policy or its people, did not fall into the darkness. Instead, textile that made in Taiwan brings performance and lifestyle into premium athletic world and captured over 50% of the sportswear market.

Junmay started the business with woven labels, a tiny piece of jacquard fabric that nevertheless is on almost every products in one’s daily life such as clothes, accessories and shoes and shows the most critical information of the product- its brand. After 35 years of specializing in jacquard woven technology, Junmay expanded its capabilities from a small woven labels to multi-purpose jacquard woven textile. Furthermore, Junmay has been investing heavily in R&D and finest machineries, becoming the first mover of one-piece engineered upper that greatly simplified the manufacturing process for footwear.

Combining R&D with worldwide production facilities, Junmay is now a long-term partner with many premium brands and collaborates closely with their developers and designers for most innovative materials and technology, such as 3D weaving, high-abrasion jacquard, and functional textile like antibacterial and water repellent. By providing customized solutions to brands, Junmay pursuits for value-added and sustainable products to customers, suppliers, as well as to the society.

中文摘要-------------------------------------------------------------------------i
英文摘要-------------------------------------------------------------------------ii
誌謝 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------iv
目錄 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------v
表目錄 --------------------------------------------------------------------------vii
圖目錄 --------------------------------------------------------------------------viii

一、 前言-----------------------------------------------------------------------1
1.1 研究背景與動機-------------------------------------------------------------1
1.2 研究範圍與目的-------------------------------------------------------------2
1.3 台灣紡織業之概述-----------------------------------------------------------3
1.4 提花織物業界之概況---------------------------------------------------------5
1.5 台灣紡織業所遇到的挑戰----------------------------------------------------10

二、 文獻探討-------------------------------------------------------------------14
2.1 提花織物之概述-------------------------------------------------------------14
2.1.1梭織物之分類---------------------------------------------------------------14
2.1.2提花織物之運用-------------------------------------------------------------16
2.1.3提花織物之技術與材料-------------------------------------------------------16
三、 提花織物的創新--------------------------------------------------------------18
3.1 研發的動機------------------------------------------------------------------18
3.2 織機與纖維材料--------------------------------------------------------------19
3.2.1提花織機的運作原理---------------------------------------------------------19
3.2.2原料------------------------------------------------------------------------30
3.2.3 紗線的染色-----------------------------------------------------------------31
3.3 組織的創新------------------------------------------------------------------33
3.3.1 圖面創意發想---------------------------------------------------------------33
3.3.2 將一片式鞋面布料導入3D立體組織-------------------------------------------36
3.3.3 設計圖轉換為提花板帶-------------------------------------------------------37
3.4 製造的步驟------------------------------------------------------------------38
3.4.1 生產流程--------------------------------------------------------------------38
3.4.2 製造過程可能產生的問題----------------------------------------------------38
3.4.3 解決方案-------------------------------------------------------------------39

四、 高機能性提花鞋面布料之技術開發---------------------------------------------42
4.1 創新動機--------------------------------------------------------------------42
4.2 置入抗菌除臭----------------------------------------------------------------42
4.2.1 抗菌除臭原料---------------------------------------------------------------42
4.2.2 如何置入一片式鞋面布------------------------------------------------------43
4.3 布面的後處理----------------------------------------------------------------44
4.3.1 耐磨水性PU樹脂泡沫塗佈技術-----------------------------------------------44
4.4 完成品展示------------------------------------------------------------------45

五、 結論與建議------------------------------------------------------------------49

六、 參考文獻---------------------------------------------------------------------51

[1]徐萍，織造工程學下冊 增訂無梭織機，甘曉光，逢甲書局，台中，中華民國七十六年九月
[2]經濟部工業局呂正華副局長，南台灣紡織聯盟2016十週年研討會簡報，台灣紡織業產業之發展與前瞻講義內容，台南，中華民國105年4月22日，第14-33頁
[3]台灣經濟研究院 李長春，台灣參加亞太區域經濟合作剖析PDF，電力人 第16期，2014年11月
[4]經濟部資料，我國推動加入『跨太平洋夥伴協定(TPP)』之經濟影響評估報告，2013年10月
[5]紡拓會網站 ，http://www.textiles.org.tw/
[6]仁美商標工業股份有限公司 ，http://www.junmay.com/