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研究生:林宬楨
研究生(外文):Cheng-Chen Lin
論文名稱:傳統產業發展與轉變-以神斧創意精品刺繡為例
論文名稱(外文):Development and Transformation of Traditional Industries - God ax Creative Boutique Embroidery as an Example
指導教授:李蕙敏李蕙敏引用關係
指導教授(外文):Huei-Min Lee
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:國立虎尾科技大學
系所名稱:休閒遊憩研究所(多媒體組)
學門:電算機學門
學類:電算機應用學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2014
畢業學年度:102
語文別:中文
論文頁數:30
中文關鍵詞:刺繡電腦刺繡文化創意產業傳統產業神斧創意精品刺繡
外文關鍵詞:embroiderydigital embroideryCultural and Creative Industriestraditional industriesShen Fu Creative Embroidery
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臺灣在1959年開始引進刺繡產業,臺灣刺繡工藝是早期人民生活智慧的累積,也是珍貴之無形文化遺產:除呈現工藝匠師的巧思妙藝,也保存庶民生活的文化與歷史軌跡;其豐富之文化元素,更可運用於文化創意產業之開發與研究。
嘉義縣朴子市早期為臺灣刺繡重鎮之一,舉凡廟宇的八仙彩、布幔到嫁娶的門簾、繡枕等,都是採用手工刺繡,由於需求量多,周國欽眼看這是一門生意,他自己擅長繪圖、太太龔燕春則精通刺繡,於是在1966年成立「國欽工藝社」,1979年第二代周至雲將事業改名「鑫得行」並擴大為工廠,以大盤批發為主。但後來中國工廠以低於臺灣製品一半的價格進攻市場,手工精良繡品抵抗不了對岸低價衝擊,加上傳統產業的沒落,當務之急就是開創新的行銷管道,以因應社會變遷,這讓同屬七年級生的周家三兄弟,決定幫助家族企業轉型,創造品牌價值與競爭力,他們感念到品牌經營的重要性,如果一直不改變,臺灣市場勢必被中國低價品取代,遂參與了「縮減產業數位落差計畫」,開始邁向企業轉型的第一步。成立了「神斧創意精品刺繡」。
根據資料顯示臺灣在1987年以後經歷過一連串的經濟改革措施之後,經貿發展更加迅速,因成衣業興盛,刺繡業也隨之擴大,在1990後達到鼎盛時期,但國民生活水平日漸提高,隨之而來勞工階級開始短缺,連帶著工資上漲導致生產成本提高,但此時臺灣的業者卻又早已投入大量資金在生產設備上,造成產能過剩,相關產業外流到印尼及泰國等勞工薪資較低的東南亞等地的影響,臺灣刺繡業的前景已出現狀況。
因應社會變遷 ,臺灣刺繡產業為了永續經營,應尋求良好的經營方式及繡花商品和行銷管道的改進,以彌補中國低價市場及技術人員的不足。
過去的文獻沒有針對刺繡業經營發展與轉變有任何的探討。本研究以成功轉型的傳統繡花業者的經營者為對象,進行深度訪談及查看相關文獻資料 ,藉以了解產業發展,並擬出三個結構面:[刺繡產業面臨問題][刺繡產業的發展研究][刺繡產業的轉變]希望從中發現優缺點,將這些重要資訊保存 ,以利往後相關產業做一個重要依據及參考。


Taiwan began introducing embroidery in 1959, and the craft was an accumulation of experience and lifestyle of early Taiwanese people. Embroidery is thus a highly prized intangible cultural heritage. Embroidery depicts not just the craftsmanship and skill of the embroiderer, it is also a media that preserves the cultural and historical traces of the common people. These cultural elements can also be applied in the research and development of Cultural and Creative Industries.
Puzi Township of Chiayi County used to be an important center of embroidery in early Taiwan. Embroideries such as the Tapestry of Eight Deities, stage curtains, and door curtains and pillows used during marriage ceremonies were all hand-made. Zhou Guo-qin (周國欽) recognized the high demand and knew he founded a business in this field. Zhou was an accomplished illustrator, while his wife Gong Yan-chun (龔燕春) was a professional embroiderer. Zhou thus established Guoqin’s Workshop (國欽工藝社) in 1966. In 1979, the second generation business owner Zhou Zhi-yun (周至雲) renamed the business as ’TOP YAJIH CO (鑫得行) and expanded the workshop into a factory that focused on wholesale markets. Later on, however, Chinese factories offering prices at only half of that in Taiwan invaded the market. Fine embroidery was no match for the low costs of Mainland Chinese products. As traditional industries started to decline, there was an urgent need to create new sales channels. In response to these social changes, the three Zhou brothers, all born during the 1980s, decided to transform the family business through generating brand value and competitiveness. They understood the importance of brand management and knew that Taiwan''s market would be completely dominated by cheap Chinese goods if no changes were made to their situation. Hence, they decided to participate in the Digital Inclusion for Small and Medium Enterprises Project and took their first step towards business transformation and established Shen Fu Creative Embroidery (神斧創意精品刺繡).
Data showed that Taiwan underwent rapid commercial developments after a series of revolutionary economic changes after 1987. The embroidery industry expanded with the rise of the garment industry, achieving a height during the 1990s. However, as living qualities improved, many companies began to lose workers. Increase in wages led to higher production costs. Yet Taiwanese business owners had already invested large quantities of capital in production equipment which led to an over-abundance of production capacities. Numerous businesses moved to Southeast Asian countries such as Indonesia or Thailand where labor was cheaper, placing the future of Taiwanese embroidery in jeopardy.
In response to these social changes, Taiwanese embroidery searched for better management models to identify improvements for their products and sales channels in order to fight against the market for cheap Chinese goods and compensate for the lack of skilled and technical personnel.
Little research has been done investigating the business development and transformation of the embroidery industry. Hence, this paper focused on a traditional embroiderer that successfully underwent business transformation. In-depth interviews as well as relevant literature were reviewed in order to understand the development of this industry. Three structural aspects were identified: problems faced by the embroidery industry, investigating the development of the embroidery industry, and transformation of the embroidery industry. This paper aimed to identify advantages and weaknesses and to preserve these critical information in order to provide other industries with an important source of reference.


目錄
中文摘要 ………………………………………………………….. i
英文摘要 ………………………………………………………….. iii
誌謝 ………………………………………………………….. v
目錄 ………………………………………………………….. vi
表目錄 ………………………………………………………….. viii
圖目錄 ………………………………………………………….. ix
第一章 緒論…………………………………………………....... 1
1.1 研究背景與目的………………………………………... 1
1.2 研究範圍與限制………………………………………... 2
1.2.1 研究範圍………………………………………………... 2
1.2.2 研究限制………………………………………………... 2
1.3 研究架構與流程………………………………………... 3
1.4 研究流程………………………………………………... 4
第二章 文獻探討………………………………………………... 5
2.1 神斧創意精品刺繡……………………………………... 5
2.1.1 神斧創意精品刺繡介紹…………………...…………… 5
2.1.2 關於朴子刺繡文化館...……………………………….... 6
2.1.3 關於朴子……………….……………………………….. 6
2.2 刺繡產業概況………….……………………………….. 7
2.2.1 刺繡種類介紹……………………………...…………… 7
2.2.2 電腦刺繡機台發展…...……………………………….... 8
2.2.3 刺繡機-機械分類...…….……………………………….. 8
2.2.4 刺繡種類-分類優缺點...……………………………….. 10
2.2.5 繡花機-機械原理.....………………………………….... 10
2.3 打板用程式介紹………………………….…………….. 11
2.3.1 Wilcome公司介紹…………………..………………….. 11
2.3.2 Wilcome程式介紹…………………………………….... 11
2.4 文化產業與文化創意產業.…………………………….. 12
2.4.1 文化創意產業之定義與範疇.………………………….. 12
2.5 傳統產業介紹…………….…………………………….. 14
2.5.1 傳統產業之定義………….…………………………….. 14
2.5.2 紡織成衣業概況………….…………………………….. 14
2.5.3 傳統電腦刺繡工廠發展….…………………………….. 14
2.5.4 朴子傳統產業業者訪談….…………………………….. 15
2.6 臺灣經濟發展概況……….…………………………….. 16
2.7 歷史研究法……………….…………………………….. 18
2.8 訪談法…………………….…………………………….. 19
第三章 研究方法與流程………………………………………... 20
3.1 研究方法與說明...…………………………………….... 20
3.2 研究步驟...…………………………………………….... 20
3.2.1 需求分析與設計…………...………………………….... 20
第四章 研究成果………………………………………………... 21
4.1 訪談內容與分析...……………………………………… 21
4.1.1 神斧創意精品刺繡訪談內容...……………………….... 21
4.1.2 傳統電腦刺繡廠業者訪談內容...……………………… 23
4.1.3 傳統產業發展…...…………………………………….... 24
第五章 結論與展望……………………………………………... 28
5.1 結論...………………………………………………….... 28
5.2 展望.……………………………………………….. 28
參考文獻 …………………………………………………………... 30


神斧創意精品刺繡。網址http://www.shenfu.com.tw/index.php
縮減產業數位落差計畫。網址http://www.moeasmea.gov.tw/ct.asp?xItem=7067&ctNode=168&mp=1
圤子刺繡文化館。網址http://www.cihshiou.org.tw/about.html
王瀞苡(2000)。女紅---台灣民間刺繡。台北:商周。
邱奕松(1999)。朴子懷舊,嘉義縣政府。
邱美惠(2006)。朴子地區傳統刺繡工藝發展現況與策略之探究,國立台北教育大學藝術與藝術教育學系碩士班。。
刺繡機的發展史。網址http://baike.baidu.com/view/79752.htm
TAJIMA(田島牌刺繡機)。網址http://www.tajima.com.hk/products/index.php?id=87e4b5ce2fe2
BORTHER(兄弟牌刺繡機)。網址http://welcome.brother.com/tw-zh/our-technology/sewing-machine.html
魯悅刺繡工業設備有限公司。網址http://luyuexj.cn.china.cn/supply/3066543864.html
纏繞繡技術的應用分析。網址http://www.sewworld.com/news/17/54535.html
WILCOM公司介紹。網址http://baike.baidu.com/view/2361910.htm
文建會:< 臺灣文化創意產業發展年報>。台北市、作者:文建會。
詹宏志(2003)。台灣下一個繁榮:發展創意產業的三個理由與兩個策略。數位時代雙周刊,第六十四期,頁102-103。
神斧之功挑花彩繡。網址http://www.shute.kh.edu.tw/~2010PBL20/
蘇少荻(2006)。成衣產業的興衰:一種文化經濟學的分析,國立清華大學 經濟學系碩士論文, 9-11。


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