臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

本論文以狄更斯的小說為材料，探討時尚在維多利亞時代中所扮演的功能與角色。在狄更斯的小說《遠大前程》中，由主角幻滅的紳士夢，點出新興中產階級試圖追求物質享受與進入上流社會的黑暗與殘酷面。時尚與衣著是顯現個人社會地位與階層最直接的表象，而從狄更斯小說中的特定論述可以推斷，狄更斯對時尚持負面的態度，認為追求時尚是一種愛慕虛榮的表現。在《遠大前程》中，一些角色藉由衣服來影響他人的判斷力，試圖扭曲特定事實與真相，從而獲得一些益處，因而造成許多社會不公的現象。個人時尚衣著與自我身份認同有著密不可分的關係，而他人對個人衣著的反應，也對個人自我認同有深刻的影響。《遠大前程》中也點出，外在的衣著差別會造成人與人的隔閡。從本研究中所得的結論是：狄更斯書中一些角色，如溫米克不受外界社會階層影響的生活態度呼應了巴赫汀的《嘉年華理論》; 那就是，社會階層隔閡暫時消失時人與人之間才可能有真誠互動的機會。狄更斯似乎想表達，物質擁有與外在時尚雖是世人所汲汲營營追求的，然而，人與人之間有意義的連結才是最有價值的。

Dickens’ Great Expectations (1861), a deluded gentleman’s dream, reveals the rising bourgeoisie’s attempt to use materiality to cross Victorian strict social boundaries and gain approval from higher social classes. This thesis aims to explore the function and roles of fashion in the Victorian era through an examination of Dickens’ novels, especially Great Expectations. Through analyzing characters’ outfits and fashion-related descriptions appearing in Great Expectations, readers are able to gain a deeper insight into identity and social injustice problems caused by the hierarchical stratification of Victorian society. First of all, fashion is one of the most conspicuous signs which demonstrates people’s social status. Several examples indicate Dickens’ negative attitude toward fashion, which he considers reminiscent of vanity. Secondly, clothes have a large influence on one’s first judgment and impression towards others. In Great Expectations, certain social injustices are caused by clothes’ function of disguise. Thirdly, throughout the protagonist Pip’s journey, fashion is an important element of his self–definition and reflects his ideological problems. Moreover, fashion also has the hidden hazard of separating human connections. Bakhtin’s theory “carnival and carnivalesque” explains the temporary phenomenon of the suspension of social hierarchy that exists in carnivals in which people regardless of their social background are allowed to connect with each other. In Great Expectations, Wemmick’s carnivalesque lifestyle underscores the theme of Dickens’ Great Expectations in which meaningful connections, instead of outer materiality, underpin the most fundamental human needs.

Abstract………………………………………………………………………………….. 4
Acknowledgment……………………………………………………………………….. 5
Introduction………………………………………………………………………………..7
Chapter One: Dickens’ Awareness of Fashion……………………………………………18
Chapter Two: How Dickens Uses Clothes to Express Social Injustice……………………35
Chapter Three: The Function of Outfits in Great Expectations ………………………….49
Chapter Four: Wemmick’s Canivalesque Way of Living in Great Expectations ………...75
Final Thoughts…………………………………………………………………………….90
Works Cited……………………………………………………………………………….93
Appendix………………………………………………………………………………….97

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