臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

波浪溯升為影響近岸海灘漂沙的重要因子。由於現地海灘的波浪溯升相當複雜，且觀測儀器的限制使往昔現地波浪溯升的研究相對較少。本文利用無人飛行載具拍攝現地波浪溯升，紀錄波浪溯升的運動過程，將影像座標透過座標轉換解算至世界座標，並藉由理論解析波湧溯升的運動過程，來探討現地波浪溯升的特性。
基於Kirkgöz (1981)描述波湧溯升的運動公式，考慮波湧溯升受到底床坡度及底床摩擦的影響，及現地波浪溯升波湧變化的特性，並以單一坡度及雙線加權坡度來描述現場的底床地形，解析獲得固定厚度波湧及變化厚度波湧在單一坡度及雙線加權坡度的溯升。
比較波湧的相對溯升理論值與Mase and Iwagaki (1984)經驗公式的結果，固定厚度波湧在單一坡度及雙線加權坡度的相對RMSE分別為3.8%及5.3%，Bias分別為2.8%及3.5%，變化厚度波湧在單一坡度及雙線加權坡度的相對RMSE分別為9.0%及8.9%，Bias分別為8.9%及8.4%。若與實測比較，理論值於漲潮時段較退潮接近實測值，兩者在單一坡度及雙線加權坡度的RMSE分別為11.6%及11.3%，Bias分別為8.8%及8.5%。

Wave run-up is an important factor in the coastal sediments. Few previous studies on in-site wave run-up were fulfilled due to complexity of run-up in a natural beach and limited for in-site observation. In this study an unmanned aerial system was set up to have living recording the whole process of wave run-up. Through coordinate transformation between image coordinates and world coordinates for each photo instant wave run-up along the shoreline were computed and some analytical solution were proposed for the motion to explore the characteristics of bore run-up.
Bore run-up is mainly affected by the forebeach slope and bottom friction, and the varied characteristics of bore run-up on a natural beach. The natural beach is suitably described by a linear or a bilinear equation in this study. A fixed bore or a varied bore is assumed to move on the beach in the theoretical . Analytical solutions of such bores are proposed for the run-up of two kinds of expressed beaches based on the motion equation proposed by Kirkgöz.
Comparison of the run up of bore with that by empirical formula of Mase and Iwagaki (1984) shows that if the bore is fixed, the mean squared errors of uniform slope and of bilinear slope are 3.8% and 5.3%, and the biases of such slopes are 2.8% and 3.5%, respectively. If the bore is varied, two mean squared errors are 9.0% and 8.9%, the biases are 8.9% and 8.4%, respectively, for such slopes. All analytical solutions of the bore run-up on the flood are closer to the measured ones than those on the same level during ebb. The mean squared errors between the measured run-ups with the solutions for the beach expressed by two kinds of slopes are 11.6% and 11.3%, respectively, corresponding biases are 8.8% and 8.5%.

摘要 i
ABSTRACT ii
謝誌 iv
目錄 v
圖目錄 viii
表目錄 xii
第一章 緒論 1
1.1 研究動機與目的 1
1.2 文獻回顧 2
1.3 文章架構 4
第二章 背景資料 6
2.1 研究基地及海氣象 6
2.1.1 地理位置 6
2.1.2 潮汐及波浪 7
2.2 無人飛行載具介紹 10
2.3 空拍任務規劃 13
2.3.1 選用的無人機及參數設定 13
2.3.2 天氣資訊 14
2.3.3 地面解析度 15
2.3.4 控制點的設置 16
2.3.5 控制點的高程量測 17
2.4 前灘地形 18
2.4.1 早期前灘坡度 19
2.4.2 現況的前灘坡度 20
第三章 空拍影像前置處理及溯升水線擷取 25
3.1 篩選偏移影像 25
3.2 影像前置處理 28
3.2.1 影像灰階及強化 29
3.2.2 影像形態學 31
3.3 溯升水線的擷取 34
3.4 近景攝影測量 36
3.4.1 空間座標系統 36
3.4.2 鏡頭變形 37
3.5 座標轉換 39
3.5.1 座標單位比值 39
3.5.2 座標旋轉 41
3.5.3 解算世界座標的高程 44
第四章 波浪溯升的理論解析 47
4.1 波浪溯升現象 47
4.2 灘線波浪的估算 47
4.2.1 波高衰減 48
4.2.2 起始速度 49
4.3 固定波湧厚度的溯升 50
4.4 變化波湧厚度的溯升 54
第五章 結果與討論 58
5.1 實測R2%溯升 58
5.1.1 溯升基準面 58
5.2 溯升計算 61
5.2.1 R2%的理論值 61
5.2.2 經驗公式的R2% 64
5.3 實測與計算溯升的比較 67
第六章 結論與建議 69
6.1 結論 69
6.2 建議 69
參考文獻 71

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