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研究生:蕭伊婷
研究生(外文):Yi-Ting Hsiao
論文名稱:多重乳液應用於製備含中草藥萃取液之防曬化妝品及其性質研究
論文名稱(外文):The Application Of Multiple Emulsions On The Preparation And Properties Of Sunscreen Content With Herbal Extracts
指導教授:李佳晉李佳晉引用關係
指導教授(外文):Chia-Ching Li
口試委員:楊行中邱文慧
口試委員(外文):Hsing-Chung YungWen-Hui Chiu
口試日期:2015-01-19
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:萬能科技大學
系所名稱:材料科學與工程研究所
學門:工程學門
學類:材料工程學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2015
畢業學年度:103
語文別:中文
論文頁數:105
中文關鍵詞:多重乳化防曬劑穩定性
外文關鍵詞:Multiple emulsionOrganic UV filtersStability
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多重乳化技術的發展已有數十年以上的歷史,可作為活性成分的載體,因此在許多領域均有被使用,例如化學、藥學、化妝品、農產品加工及食品產業。而在化妝品工業的應用中,多重乳液可用來包覆容易氧化的維他命C、維他命E、容易變質的胺基酸及香料或香精。
本實驗將利用親水性乳化劑,製備合適的多重乳液(O/W/O),用以包覆光不穩定性的有機防曬劑及中草藥萃取液,降低有機防曬劑的皮膚滲透,由於許多中草藥萃取液,容易因氧化而改變顏色,因此,也將利用多重乳液,改善此項缺點,使有機防曬劑與中草藥萃取液達到協同效果,增加防曬產品的防曬效果與安全性。實驗所製備的所有配方,其性質與穩定性,將利用黏度測試及型態學探討。有機防曬劑配方的防曬係數,將利用體外測試法進行評估。
由實驗結果得知,於靜置試驗、顯微鏡測試、黏度及陽光保護係數測試中,以內層油脂使用Cetyl Octanoate製備而得的O/W/O乳液為最佳,希望未來能成功將多重乳化技術應用在防曬化妝品中。

Multiple emulsions (MEs) have attracted significant interest in the past several decades. Due to their distinct structure and properties, MEs are of special interest for several drug delivery approaches. These multiple systems have been widely studied in various fields such as chemistry, pharmacy, cosmetics, agroalimentary industry and the food industry. In the cosmetics industry, MEs are very suitable for encapsulation of active ingredients such as ascorbic acid , vitamin E, amino acids and perfume.
In this study , the properties and stability of MEs prepared by using several different lipophilic and hydrophilic emulsifiers will be investigated. Then, the several of photounstable organic UV filters and herbal extracts were encapsulated into the suitable and stable multiple emulsion formulations. The prepared sample formulations will be characterized and their stability over time evaluated by dynamic and oscillatory rheological measurement and microscopic analysis. The sun protection factor(SPF) of sunscreen content organic UV filters associated or not with Chinese herbal extracts will also be estimated by in vitro.
The result show that in sedimentation, microscopy, viscosity and sun protection factor test, inner oil phase using cetyl octanoate preparation O/W/O emulsion for the best, hope that the future will be able to succeed in multiple emulsion technology in sunscreen cosmetics.

目錄
摘要 I
Abstract II
誌謝 III
目錄 IV
圖目錄 VI
表目錄 VIII
第一章 緒論 1
第二章 文獻回顧 3
2.1 紫外線之介紹 3
2.2 防曬劑介紹 4
2.2.1 光不穩定性之有機防曬劑 7
2.3 多重乳化 14
2.4 界面活性劑簡介 15
2.5 油脂之介紹 17
2-5-1 礦物性油脂與蠟 17
2-5-2 合成油脂與蠟 18
2.6 中草藥萃取液 19
2.7 影響乳化穩定性的因素 20
2.8 乳化的不穩定性 22
2.9 乳化安定性的評價方法 23
第三章 實驗 24
3.1 實驗藥品 24
3.2 實驗儀器 25
3.3 中草藥萃取液製備 26
3.4 多重乳液配方及製備方式 29
3.4.1 O/W型乳液配方及製備方式 30
3.4.2 O/W/O型乳液配方及製備方式 34
3.5 實驗測試 35
3.5.1 離心試驗 35
3.5.2 靜置試驗 35
3.5.3 顯微鏡觀察 35
3.5.4 黏度測試 36
3.5.5 In vitro SPF值測試 37
第四章 結果與討論 38
4.1 離心測試 38
4.2 高、低溫與室溫靜置試驗 45
4.3 顯微鏡觀察測試 61
4.3.1 O/W乳液液滴型態之探討 61
4.3.2不同油脂對於O/W/O乳液型態之探討 66
4.3.3 探討O/W乳液加入中草藥後外層使用不同油脂對O/W/O乳液液滴穩定性 73
4.4 黏度測試 81
4.4.1 O/W乳液黏度穩定性 81
4.4.2 O/W/O乳液黏度穩定性 84
4.5 陽光保護係數測試 89
第五章 結論 98
參考文獻 100

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