臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

　　自古已有應用中草藥於醫療和護膚美容，如今生活品質提高對於外表越顯重視，皮膚老化的課題就更加重要。隨著當今「崇尚自然」的想法高漲，科技日新月異，更期望能由天然原料中取得有效成分並製成化粧品。由此見得，將中草藥應用於化粧品中已成為目前化粧品發展之趨勢。本研究採用中草藥為素材，探討其抗氧化活性並開發成化粧品。六種中草藥中，地榆（Sanguisorba officinalis Linn.）、石榴皮（Punica granatum Linn.）、絞股藍（Gynostemma pentaphyllum (Thunb.) Makino）、菊花（Chrysanthemum morifolium Ramate.）、白芍（Paeonia lactiflora Pall.）和山楂（Crataegus pinnatifida Bge.），以地榆與石榴皮之萃取物的抗氧化活性最佳。DPPH‧自由基清除能力之SC50，地榆為4.7 µg/mL，石榴皮為6.7 µg/mL。TEAC總抗氧化能力，地榆為3996.64 µmol Trolox eq./g，石榴皮為3247.27 µmol Trolox eq./g。地榆與石榴皮萃取物也具有良好的DNA保護能力。地榆萃取物之總酚含量為353.27 ± 0.96 mg GAE/g，石榴皮萃取物次之，為199.32 ± 0.65 mg GAE/g，可由此看出酚類物質與抗氧化活性之相關性。石榴皮萃取液之保水力最佳。挑選地榆和石榴皮製做成抗老化保養品，並將配方放置於不同溫度下觀察其pH值及顏色變化，或以高速離心觀察其分層現象。另外，測試粒徑和黏度來評估配方的穩定性，而以挑戰試驗評估防腐系統之效能。在人體有效性方面，對皮膚色斑、皺紋、保濕度、平滑度有改善效果。最後將其餘具有抗氧化活性之中草藥磨成粉末添加於手工皂中，可作為天然色料，且中草藥手工皂對皮膚保濕度也有改善效果，並具備良好的清潔力。由此驗證了中草藥應用於抗老化保養品及手工皂中之功效。

　　Chinese herbs are well known of the therapeutic benefits for years. Many of these plants possess tremendous medicinal and pharmaceutical effects, and being used for distinct aspects of applications. To date, with the increasing idea of advocating health and beauty, Chinese herbs have also made it a potential candidate to develop into the cosmetic products for preventing aging processes. In this study, six Chinese herbals were used for determination of the antioxidant activity and manufacturing capacity for commercial cosmetic purposes. Among the six Chinese herbs including Sanguisorba officinalis Linn., Punica granatum Linn., Gynostemma pentaphyllum (Thunb.) Makino, Chrysanthemum morifolium Ramate., and Paeonia lactiflora Pall., Sanguisorba officinalis Linn. and Punica granatum Linn. exhibited the strongest antioxidant activity. The SC50 of DPPH radical scavenging capacity of Sanguisorba officinalis root and Punica granatum Linn. were 4.7 μg/mL and 6.7 μg/mL, respectively. The Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity of Sanguisorba officinalis root and pomegranate peel were 3996.64 µmol Trolox eq./g and 3247.27 µmol Trolox eq./g, respectively. Sanguisorba officinalis root and pomegranate peel extract displayed the superior DNA protection ability and water retention capacity. Additionally, the positive correlation between antioxidant activity and total phenol content of Sanguisorba officinalis (353.27 ± 0.96 mg GAE/g) was observed. Selected Sanguisorba officinalis root and pomegranate peel extract made antiaging skincare products. In the stability assessment, particle size, viscosity, thermal- and pH-dependent stability was subsequently investigated. To address the efficiency of preservative, the microbacterial challenge test was detected. A series of formulation has improvement effect on spots, wrinkles, moisture, and smoothness of skin. Finally, the other herbs with antioxidant activity grounded into powder, and added them in handmade soap as a natural dye. Besides, handmade soap with herbs also improved the moisture and a good clean of skin. And human efficiency evaluation was utilized for the determination of the feasibility of Chinese herbs for the cosmetic purposes.

目錄
頁次
中文摘要…………………………………………………………………………I
英文摘要………………………………………………………………………III
謝誌……………………………………………………………………………V
目錄……………………………………………………………………………VI
圖目錄…………………………………………………………………………X
表目錄………………………………………………………………………XIII
縮寫表…………………………………………………………………………XV
壹、前言…………………………………………………………………………1
貳、研究動機與目的……………………………………………………………2
參、實驗架構……………………………………………………………………3
一、第一部分─中草藥活性測試與成分分析……………………………3
二、第二部分─產品配方設計……………………………………………4
肆、文獻整理……………………………………………………………………5
一、中草藥化粧品簡介……………………………………………………5
二、中藥材文獻回顧………………………………………………………6
（一）地榆……………………………………………………………6
（二）石榴皮…………………………………………………………8
（三）絞股藍…………………………………………………………10
（四）菊花……………………………………………………………11
（五）白芍……………………………………………………………12
（六）山楂……………………………………………………………13
三、老化皮膚簡介…………………………………………………………14
（一）皮膚的組成與構造……………………………………………14
（二）皮膚老化的成因及特徵………………………………………16
（三）皮膚老化相關學說……………………………………………19
四、自由基文獻回顧………………………………………………………21
（一）自由基的特性及產生方式……………………………………21
（二）生物體中自由基的種類………………………………………21
（三）自由基的清除及抗氧化劑……………………………………26
五、榛果油與乳油木果脂簡介……………………………………………31
（一）榛果油…………………………………………………………31
（二）乳油木果脂……………………………………………………32
伍、材料與方法…………………………………………………………………33
一、試藥與溶劑……………………………………………………………33
二、儀器與設備……………………………………………………………35
三、中草藥萃取……………………………………………………………36
四、活性試驗………………………………………………………………38
（一）DPPH‧自由基清除試驗……………………………………38
（二）ABTS‧+ 陽離子自由基清除試驗…………………………40
（三）以DNA電泳評估OH‧所引發之DNA損傷的保護作用……43
（四）總酚含量測定…………………………………………………46
（五）保水力測試……………………………………………………48
五、配方調製……………………………………………………………….50
（一）乳霜……………………………………………………………50
（二）精華液…………………………………………………………52
（三）面膜凍…………………………………………………………53
（四）手工皂…………………………………………………………54
六、篩選各配方之中草藥萃取液的種類及添加量………………………57
七、配方之穩定性測試……………………………………………………58
（一）不同溫度下之六種中草藥萃取液於配方中的pH值變……58
（二）不同溫度下之六種中草藥萃取液於配方中的顏色變化……58
（三）循環變溫試驗…………………………………………………58
（四）離心試驗………………………………………………………58
（五）粒徑分佈測試…………………………………………………59
（六）黏度測試………………………………………………………60
（七）挑戰試驗………………………………………………………61
八、人體有效性評估………………………………………………………63
（一）BIO-PRO全臉膚質診測儀…………………………………64
（二）整合式皮膚諮詢系統…………………………………………64
（三）SKICON-200EX皮膚保濕測定儀……………………………64
（四）分光色差分析儀………………………………………………65
陸、結果與討論…………………………………………………………………66
一、產率及萃取液之pH值………………………………………………66
二、DPPH‧自由基清除結果……………………………………………67
三、ABTS‧+ 陽離子自由基清除結果…………………………………70
四、以DNA電泳評估保護羥基自由基損傷結果………………………74
五、總酚含量結果…………………………………………………………77
六、保水力測試結果………………………………………………………78
七、配方設計………………………………………………………………79
（一）乳霜……………………………………………………………79
（二）手工皂…………………………………………………………80
八、各配方之pH值與顏色變化結果……………………………………82
九、循環變溫試驗與離心試驗結果……………………………………96
十、乳霜粒徑分佈測試結果……………………………………………97
十一、精華液黏度測試結果……………………………………………102
十二、挑戰試驗結果…………………………………………………….103
十三、抗老化保養品之人體有效性評估………………………………105
（一）BIO-PRO全臉膚質診斷儀…………………………………105
（二）整合式皮膚諮詢系統………………………………………110
（三）皮膚保濕測定儀……………………………………………112
（四）分光色差分析儀……………………………………………113
十四、手工皂之人體有效性評估………………………………………115
（一）皮膚保濕度測試……………………………………………115
（二）L.a.b皮膚色值變化…………………………………………116
（三）清潔能力測試………………………………………………117
十五、討論………………………………………………………………118
柒、結論………………………………………………………………………119
捌、參考文獻…………………………………………………………………126

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