臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

我們所建構偵測皮膚角質層蛋白質羰基化數量之方法，已證實可分別應用於評估抗氧化劑的臨床抗氧化效力及防曬劑的臨床防曬效力，本研究更顯示可應用於評估抗氧化劑與防曬劑組合運用時的臨床光保護效力加成效果。我們測試2種抗氧化劑及3種防曬劑之個別及其組合配方之光保護效力，我們以水包油 (o/w) 的乳霜劑型為傳輸系統，抗氧化劑固定使用濃度為0.3 %，防曬劑則為2.5 %。每種試驗皆選擇5名健康的男性自願者受測，並以單盲試驗方式進行，每個受測者前臂外側皮膚劃分為上下二塊面積相等的區域，各自塗抹實驗組及空白組敷劑，每天於晨間塗抹一次，塗抹劑量為3.0±0.2 mg/cm2，每天上下午特定時間累積曝曬陽光共12分鐘，試驗期間為2週。實驗結果顯示a-Vit E的光保護效力明顯優於Vit C。而Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM)的光保護效力明顯優於Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC)及Octocrylene (OCR)。在組合配方的研究中，顯示只有a-Vit E與BMDM之間有顯著的光保護效力加成效果，其他的組合並沒有顯現光保護效力加成效果。我們認為氧化安定性差及光不穩定性的抗氧化劑，在低使用濃度及曝曬陽光的條件下，無法顯著地與防曬劑形成光保護效力的加成效果。此外，抗氧化劑與防曬劑間的交互作用也是影響光保護效力加成效果的重要因素。我們藉由這套體內(in vivo)評估平台可以成功地應用於抗氧化劑與防曬劑組合運用時的臨床光保護效力鑑定及量化。

We have established an in vivo test platform to detect the changes of protein carbonylation in the most outer layer of human stratum corneum (SC). The platform can be applied to evaluation of the photo-protective capability of antioxidants and UV filters, respectively. In this study, we identified the additive photo-protective efficiency of various combinations of vitamins E/C and UV filter by the in vivo test platform. An oil-in-water emulsion delivery was used, and a fixed concentration of antioxidant and UV filter in the tested emulsions was 0.3 %, and 2.5 %,, respectively. Five healthy male volunteers participated in each emulsion, and in a single blind test manner. The rear-side skin of the forearm was divided equally into experimental and control areas. Topical application was administered once at a dosage of 3.0±0.2 mg/cm2 in the morning, and exposed sunlight with an accumulative time of 12 min every day during the test period of 2 weeks. The results indicated that the photo-protective efficacy of -Vit E was significantly better than Vit C. The photo-protective efficacy of Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM) was significantly better than Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and Octocrylene (OCR). The combination of antioxidant and UV filter, only-Vit E and BMDM represented additive effect, other combinations represented insignificant additive effect. We believed that an antioxidant has the properties with poor oxidation stability and poor photostability, it is not ability to promote the additive photo-protective efficiency in the presence of UV filter through the use of a low concentration and sunlight exposure conditions. In addition, the interaction between antioxidant and UV filer is an important factor in the additive effects for photo-protective efficiency. Our data suggested that the platform set up in the current study can be potentially used for quantifying the photo-protective efficiency of the combination formulation of antioxidant and UV filter.

中文摘要 III
英文摘要 IV.
第一章 研究背景 1
第一節 皮膚光老化的生物指標 1
第二節 皮膚組織對抗紫外線的天然防禦機制 2
第三節 化妝品應用於皮膚光老化策略 5
第四節 化妝品抗氧化劑及防曬劑的有效性評估方式 7
第五節 角質層蛋白質羰基化評估方式的建構 10
第六節 化妝品常用抗氧化劑減少角質層蛋白質羰基化比較 12
第七節 化妝品常用化學防曬劑減少角質層蛋白質羰基化之比較 15
第八節 抗氧化劑及化學防曬劑的生物安全性探討 18
第二章 研究動機與目的 21
第三章 實驗大綱 22
第四章 實驗原理及流程 23
第一節 實驗原理 23
第二節 實驗流程 24
第五章 實驗材料與方法 25
第一節 實驗材料 25
第二節 實驗敷劑配方設計組成分及備製流程 25
第三節 受試者篩選、局部塗抹及曝曬陽光的條件 28
第四節 前臂皮膚的貼布剝屑及角質層蛋白質分離 30
第五節 DNPH羰基接合反應、蛋白質電泳及呈色法 31
第六節 羰基化數量分析 33
第七節紫外線吸收光譜測試 34
第八節 DPPH清除力評估試驗 34
第六章 結果與討論 35
第一節 實驗敷劑對紫外線的吸收能力 35
第二節 實驗敷劑對DPPH的清除能力 41
第三節 抗氧化劑(a-Vit E 、Vit C)臨床光保護效力 44
第四節 化學防曬劑(BMDM、OMC、OCR)的臨床光保護效力 47
第五節 抗氧化劑與化學防曬劑組合成份臨床光保護效力 50
第七章 結論 56
第八章 未來展望 58
參考文獻 .......................................... 59

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