臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

本論文旨在描述與探討2011北藝大冬季公演的《The Dresser》這齣戲，從中近一步的去討論「劇服設計」與「時裝設計」兩者間的關聯性；《The Dresser》是在戲劇廳內所演出的舞台劇，所以它故事本身也是關於劇場內，所發生在劇台前後的寫實生活，深刻地去描述著劇場人的各種面相與五味雜陳的心境。
《The Dresser》這齣戲，是英國劇作家Ronald Harwood 在1982年獲東尼獎最佳劇作的提名。而北藝大的同學們在民國100年12月，一群即將畢業的年輕人重新再詮釋《The Dresser》，主要內容是描述一位擔任團長的服妝師諾門，在演出前的危機中獨排眾議，幾乎以一己之力促成團主和團員們完成演出。它主要在精緻的描繪二戰時期的英國，一個不安時代下和一群劇場人員們，彼此間的各種關係和情感，他們為了理想、為了藝術、為了所愛所交織出的故事。而本文正是從劇中的「劇服設計」去作詳細探討，並找出它和「時裝設計」之間的關聯。

In 2011, Taipei National University of the Arts winter show case performed 《The Dresser》. This thesis is revealing the connection between costume design and stage design through this play. 《The Dresser》was a story about a theatrical troupe and the scene also sets in a theater. When audience came to enjoy the play, they will sit in a theater and watching a show about the theater. The story brings out the truth inside show choir, and gives us the insight of their live and emotion.

《The Dresser》was written by Ronald Harwood in 1982. It was also been nominated by the Tony Award for the best play of the year. In 2011, the students of Taipei National University of the Arts brought this play on the stage for the very first time in Taiwan. The story was set in England during World War Two, the troupe was falling apart and having crisis. Only one man-the dresser of the troupe still believes in the show and brings the show back together through the performance. People in the troupe fighting for their passion and love under a difficult time. In this thesis, we will also see the relationship between costume design and fashion design.

第一章 緒論……………………………………………………………5
Introduction
第二章 關於劇作………………………………………………………9
Literature Review
一、劇作家介紹……………………………………………………………9
二、戰爭背景對服裝的影響………………………………………………10
三、角色與劇本分析 ……………………………………………………21

第三章 規劃與設計 …………………………………………………28
Plan and design
一、出場表與快換表 ……………………………………………………28
二、角色心理與色譜 ……………………………………………………33
三、第一版服裝設計草圖與分析……………………………………66
四、二版服裝設計草圖與分析 ……………………………………92
五、完稿與分析 ………………………………………………………112
六、飾品與配件分析 …………………………………………………123

第四章 服裝製作與問題探討……………………………………130 fabrication and discussion :
1.服裝平面草圖…………………………………………………131
2.飾品配件製作與道具…………………………………………………133
3.特殊服裝效果處理…………………………………………………137
4.舞台化妝與特殊化妝…………………………………………………139
5.髮型製作、假髮與鬍子概論…………………………………………………146
6.試衣fitting…………………………………………………151
7.排練場經歷…………………………………………………155
8.主修教授指導與自我檢討…………………………………………………157

第五章 結語Conclusion…………………………………………………161
1.總結…………………………………………………161

第六章 附件accessories :…………………………………………………163
1.排演日誌記錄…………………………………………………163
2. 服裝清單…………………………………………………174
3.預算表…………………………………………………181
4.帳目…………………………………………………185
5.劇本…………………………………………………189
6. 服裝設計稿…………………………………………………226
7. 劇照…………………………………………………245
8. 參考書目…………………………………………………281

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