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研究生:賴孟亭
研究生(外文):LAI,MENG-TING
論文名稱:複合性植物萃取液在除皺霜上的應用
論文名稱(外文):Multiple herbal extracts used in the skincare cream with anti-wrinkling effects
指導教授:呂尚謙
指導教授(外文):LUE,SHANG-CHIAN
口試委員:曾大千李冠漢呂尚謙
口試委員(外文):TSENG, TA-CHIENLEE, KUAN-HANLUE, SHANG-CHIAN
口試日期:2017-07-27
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:嘉南藥理大學
系所名稱:化粧品應用與管理系
學門:民生學門
學類:美容學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2017
畢業學年度:105
語文別:中文
論文頁數:113
中文關鍵詞:中草藥組合性複方植物萃取液基質金屬蛋白酶皮膚老化抗皺
外文關鍵詞:Chinese herbal medicinesmultiple herbal extractionsmatrix metalloproteinasesskin aginganti-wrinkle
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本研究是將天然植物萃取液進行基質金屬蛋白酶(matrix metalloproteinases, MMPs)活性抑制分析,可以應用於保護膠原蛋白,延緩膠原蛋白被降解,獲得我們需要的美容成分,並找出有效並符合經濟效益的抗皺組合複方,再進一步將複合性植物萃取液調入乳霜,期望能研發具經濟效能的抗皺乳霜。
參考實用中草藥圖典[1]及藥用植物學[2],選用15種中草藥。探討15種植物萃取液包括五倍子、連翹、艾草、蘇木、仙鶴草、蘿蔔泥、蘿蔔皮、黃連、虎杖、大黃、苦參、紫蘇、柑橘種子、甘草及黃芩。實驗結果顯示15種樣本, 中草藥五倍子、艾草、仙鶴草、大黃、虎杖、苦參及蘿蔔泥等七種樣品在1%~10%的濃度下,反應24小時~48小時,對MMP-2和MMP-9具有顯著的抑制作用;另外再將七種有效萃取液進行組合性複方,篩選出具有協同作用的組合性複方;這些複方萃取液可以應用於抗老化化粧品原料,達到延緩皺紋產生的目的。
將組合性複方萃取液添調入乳霜中,選用AN、AI及BP三種組合性複方,利用皮膚檢測儀評估除皺效果,結果顯示使用四周後受測者皺紋有顯著的減少。

The objective of the study is to obtain cosmetic ingredients we needed by analyzing inhibitory effect on matrix metalloproteinases,(MMPs)in purely natural plant essence for the purpose of finding the effective anti-wrinkling skin care cream with the good economic benefits. Further, add the herbal composite extraction into the cream to invent the anti-wrinkle cream in a cost-effective way.
Referring to the pharmaceutical botany and the encyclopedia of traditional Chinese medicine and pharmacy, by examining 15 Chinese medicinal herbs, such as Melaphis chinensis, Forsythia suspensa, Artemisia argyi, Caesalpinia sappan, Agrimonia pilosa, Raphanus sativus mud, Raphanus sativus skin, Coptis chinensis, Polygonum cuspidatum, Rheum palmatum, Sophora flavescens, Perilla frutescens, Citrus reticulata seed, Glycyrrhiza uralensis, Scutellaria baicalensis, the results showed that there were 15 samples. The consequence indicated that Melaphis chinensis, Artemisia argyi, Agrimonia pilosa, Rheum palmatum, Polygonum cuspidatum, Sophora flavescens, Raphanus sativus and so forth at the concentration of 1 to 10% was reacted in 24 to 48 hours had an obvious inhibitory effect on MMP-2 and MMP-9. Afterwards, by combining those samples as a composite sample in order to dispense the composite sample showed the synergistic effect. These extractions could protect the collagen, put off the degradation of the collagen, and were applied on anti-wrinkle cosmetics.
By adding the multiple herbal extractions to the skincare cream and chose the AN, AI and BP compound combinations. Utilizing the VISIA advanced digital skin analyzer to evaluate the reaction on removing wrinkle and the outcome displayed that the subjects had a clear decrease on their wrinkles after four weeks.

摘要 I
Abstract II
致謝 IV
目錄 V
表目錄 VII
圖目錄 VIII
縮寫表 XI
第一章 緒論 1
1-1前言 1
1-2研究架構 2
第二章 文獻整理 3
2-1 皮膚的生理結構 3
2-2 皮膚老化之簡介 5
2-3膠原蛋白(Collagens) 7
2-3-1 膠原蛋白存在的部位 7
2-4 基質金屬蛋白酶 8
2-4-1 MMPs結構與成 9
2-5 含抑制MMPs(Matrix metalloproteinases)成分的萃取液 11
2-6實驗植物介紹 12
2-6-1五倍子(Rhus chinensis) 12
2-6-2連翹(Forsythia suspensa) 13
2-6-3艾草(Artemisia argyi) 14
2-6-4 蘇木(Caesalpinia sappan) 15
2-6-5仙鶴草(Rhinacanthus nasutus) 16
2-6-6大黃(Rheum rhabarbarum) 17
2-6-7黃連(Coptis chinensis) 18
2-6-8虎杖(Fallopia japonica) 19
2-6-9苦參(Sophora flavescens) 20
2-6-10 紫蘇(Perilla frutescens) 21
2-6-11 黃芩(Scutellaria baicalensis) 22
2-6-12 甘草(Glycyrrhiza uralensis) 23
2-6-13 蘿蔔泥(Raphanus sativus mud) 24
2-6-14 蘿蔔皮(Raphanus sativus skin) 25
2-6-15柑橘種子(Citrus reticulata seed) 26
第三章 材料與方法 27
3-1 儀器與藥品 27
3-1-1 實驗儀器 27
3-1-2 實驗藥品 27
3-1-3 原料 28
3-2 實驗樣品及備制 30
3-2-1 樣品備製 30
3-2-2 3T3細胞 31
3-2-3 細胞凍存 32
3-2-4 解凍細胞 32
3-2-5 細胞繼代 32
3-3 實驗方法 33
3-3-1基質金屬蛋白酶活性抑制分析(anti-MMPs assay) 33
3-3-2除皺霜製成 36
3-3-3 人體有效性評估 37
第四章 結果與討論 38
4-1 中草藥萃取液測試樣品之基質金屬蛋白酶活性抑制分析 38
4-2 人體有效性評估測試 88
第五章 結論 108
第六章 參考文獻 111


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