臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

德國納粹第三帝國時期的軍服，其剪裁、色調、線條俐落，可說是具有美學概念的服飾設計。與在同一時期的他國軍服相較，納粹軍服的美感與魅力立即凸顯，而在眾多納粹軍種的制服中，黨衛軍Schutzstaffel (SS)制服可以說是最具代表性。納粹軍服的美感與魅力甚至跨越了時空和國族，隨著第三帝國在盟軍的征討結束命運到至今，納粹美學的感官刺激依然存在且繼續挑動現代人的視覺神經，儘管在戰後的政治正確的氛圍下變得不可言喻，法西斯主義徹底的把制服「情欲化」，創造了對於陽剛身體的戀物情結，亦是一個完整的美學建構，將宰制、殘暴以及非理性的情感注入於亞利安種族的外觀形像上，使其成為包覆在閃亮黑色皮革和刀鋒稅利般線條裡的「男」女武神。 誠然，納粹不論在思想或服飾上的確內建了豐富且細膩的性意涵，這樣的建構在成為社會宰制的工具的同時，也成功的摧毀完美的威瑪共和，將德國從一個歐陸上進步且強大的正常國家轉變為狂熱的極端。誠然，納粹軍服的魅力使人著迷，然而為何納粹軍服的美感張力如此強烈？而在遠東的台灣，於歷史、文化、國族理應絕緣於納粹文化，卻為何也為之著迷？
本研究以六位在台灣的二戰德國黨衛軍制服穿著者為研究對像，透過深度訪談試圖拼湊納粹軍服與陽剛文化的連結，以及在台灣的特殊意涵與脈絡。

It has been observed that Nazi chic has also left its mark on Taiwan, Nazi uniforms cast attractive power and have been gratified by certain individuals yet their affection toward Nazi aesthetics is a bizarre one, for Taiwan is geopolitically peripheral hence detached from both historical and cultural context of Nazism. As the contemplation was called into question that in what extent is the Nazi ideological symbolism of the uniform an attraction for the enactors/collectors in Taiwan? Hence an academic pursuit was launched in task of a close-up look at the Nazi phenomena as well as the content of that seemingly decontextualised fond regard.
The hypothesis of this study initially lies on a speculation that men's fond regard in Nazi uniforms has been propelled by masculinity, of which, certain elements identifiable from the Fascism ideas and aesthetic code might be proven as the factors that trigger the inner impetus for Taiwanese male to embrace such a foreign sentiment, insofar to attain interpretative understanding to contextualize what appears to be decontextualised.
This study has been set forth to be a qualitative one which located six respondents for in-depth understandings, aims to absorb an unique knowledge-"donning experience" to tackle in theme discussing correlations between masculinity and SS uniform enactments, gender symbolism which constitutes men's attachment to the uniforms, and the discursivities of masculinism that derived from their enactments.

Table of Contents

Chapter I Introduction

1-1. Phenomenal Nazi Uniforms............................................................... ..p. 1
1-2. Terminology and Definitions...............................................................p. 3
1-3. The Aim of Study.....................................................................p. 7
1-3-1. The Donning Experience that 'I' Speaks of........................................................................p. 8
1-3-2. Why SS?.......................................................................p. 10
1-4. History and Context of Nazi......................................................................p. 11
1-4-1. The Forefather of Chinese Indulgence in Nazi Uniform
- Chiang Wei-kuo.......................................................................p. 15
1-5. Structure and Format....................................................................p. 18

Chapter II Literature Review

2-1. Literalizing Uniform................................................................. .p. 19
2-2. Forming Masculinity through Uniform...................................................................p. 21
2-3. Peacock Plumage – Aphrodisiac Artifact in Sex Economy...................................................................p. 25
2-4. Sexy Nazi Uniforms: The Male Incarnation of Valkyrie..................................................................p. 28
2-5. "But It Is A Uniform, Not A Costume"..................................................................p. 32
2-6. Summary...................................................................p. 39

Chapter III Methodology

3-1. Chasing Double Lightning Bolts.....................................................................p. 40
3-2. The Rationality for Employing Qualitative Approach..................................................................p. 42
3-3. Relevancies in Practicality and
Ethics Pertaining to the Research.........................................p. 47
3-4. Summary...................................................................p. 50

Chapter IV Data Analysis

4-1. Moving from Texts to the Field.....................................................................p. 52
4-2. List of Brief Account of SS Uniform Enactors from Interviews................................................................p. 55
4-3. The Effects of Sartorial Renderings on Discourse, Language and Visual
Pleasure................................................................p. 56
4-3-1. A True Nazi......................................................................p. 57
4-3-2. Ennobling through Exquisitism and Exclusivity...............................................................p. 59
4-3-3. Uniform, Elitism, The Image of Nation Founding Father- The Zeitgeist
of High-collar, Concealed Front Opening and Cuff Decorations.....p. 65
4-4. In the Mood of Masculinism...............................................................p. 68
4-4-1. Authenticity in Uniforms and the Self......................................................................p. 69
4-4-2. Men's Lack of Fashionable Choice in Asymmetry to Women-
In Responding to the Myth of 'Undecorated' Body......................................................................p. 73
4-4-3. A Playground of Male Stream- Men's Privilege Reinforced by
Authenticity..............................................................p. 77
4-5. Where Old Grudges Joins with Anti-Zionism...................................................................p. 80
4-6. Summary.............................................................p. 83

Chapter V Conclusion

5-1. The Sartorial Designs and Body Techniques par excellence of SS
Uniforms..................................................................p. 85
5-2. The Masculinism Derived and Improvised by Enactment of SS Uniforms..p. 86
5-3. Interpreting the Cult- "When Fascism Took Power, It Took Charged of the
Imaginary"................................................................p. 87
5-4. Limitation and Future Possibilities.............................................................p. 92

References...............................................................p. 94

Appendix I...........................................................................I
Appendix II.........................................................................II
Appendix III........................................................................IX
Appendix IV................................................................XV

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