臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

威廉．克萊因（William Klein, 1928—）是美籍法裔攝影師和電影導演，2010年英國知名攝影雜誌Professional Photographer評選克萊因為世紀百大最具影響力攝影師之一；克萊因是全方位的藝術怪才，將街頭攝影以及顛覆主流審美理念運用在時尚攝影，前衛的風格使他在時尚攝影中占有一席之地。「無規矩、無框架、無設限」是克萊因的攝影理念，真實感的戶外街拍是他所想要呈現的主題。克萊因曾經修習社會學，各個城市成為他的拍攝主題，透過混亂模糊、失焦、畫質顆粒粗大等突破時下流行布列松式的攝影技巧，以異鄉人的想光，瞬間捕捉街上人們真實的表情，呈現不同城市的多元樣貌。且克萊因以幽默、諷刺的電影拍攝手法傳達現況政治及社會議題，讓他的作品受到注目，成為當代具有爭議性的藝術家之一。

目前國內對於克萊因相關研究稀少，故本研究整理並分析克萊因的相關文獻，梳理克萊因從攝影界發跡至多面向的影像創作，並藉由克萊因的作品理念所延伸出對社會議題的探討，反思影像美學在當代的重要性及影響力。

本研究透過文本分析法為主，圖象分析法、藝術社會學法為輔，以探討克萊因的作品理念，研究目的分別為（1）了解克萊因在時尚攝影史之位置及作品特色，（2）分析克萊因街頭攝影作品以及涵蓋社會性作品，（3）探討克萊因作品之創新及影響。希望藉此研究了解克萊因的時尚攝影、街頭攝影、議題電影對社會之影響。

William Klein (1928-) is a French-American photographer and film director. 2010 British photographic magazine Professional Photographer selected the most influential photographer, Klein is one of them. Klein is a versatile artist, the street photography and subversion of the mainstream aesthetic concept used in fashion photography, avant-garde style so that he became famous in the fashion photography circle. No rules, no frame, no limit is Klein's photography concept, the real outdoor street shooting is what he wants to show the theme. Klein majoring in sociology, the city is his shooting theme, through the confusion of blurred, out of focus, rough quality and so on, breaking the popular poplion popular photography skills to the eyes of a stranger, on the real expression of the people, showing the diverse appearance of different cities. And Klein was photographed with humorous, satirical techniques to convey the current political and social issues and to make his work visible and become one of the contemporary controversial artists.

    At present, the domestic research on the Klein related research is rare, so this study collated and analyzed the relevant literature of Klein, combing Klein from the photography industry fortune-oriented image creation, and by Klein's work concept, social issues to reflect on the importance and influence of image aesthetics in contemporary times.

    This study is based on the text analysis method, the image analysis method and the art sociology method to explore the Klein's works. The purpose of the research is (1) to understand the location and characteristics of Klein's fashion photography history (2) analyzing Klein street photography and covering social works, and (3) exploring the innovation and influence of Klein's work. Hoping to understand the impact of Klein's study fashion photography, street photography, cinema issues for society.

緒論
一、 研究背景與動機--------------------------------------------------------------1
二、 研究目的--------------------------------------------------------------------5
三、文獻回顧
（一）時尚攝影------------------------------------------------------------------5
（二）克萊因攝影----------------------------------------------------------------9
四、研究方法-------------------------------------------------------------------16
五、研究範圍與對象-------------------------------------------------------------18
六、研究架構與章節架構--------------------------------------------------------20
第一章 時尚攝影發展簡史
第一節 1900年代至1950年代—時尚攝影之初-------------------------------------23
第二節  1950年代至1980年代—顛覆時尚美學-------------------------------------27
第三節  1980年代至1990年代—時尚與藝術的火花--------------------------------35
第四節  1990年代至近期—時尚攝影的各種可能-----------------------------------44
小結----------------------------------------------------------------------------49
第二章  克萊因時尚攝影作品分析（1955—1965）
第一節  菸、帽子、面紗—棚內靜態肖像攝影--------------------------------------52
第二節 鏡子與模特—自戀之凝視-------------------------------------------------56
第三節  城市與動態—時尚街頭攝影----------------------------------------------59
第四節 劇情與敘事—仿電影劇照-------------------------------------------------69
第五節 模特與光—用光源塑造前衛風格-------------------------------------------74
第三章  克萊因街頭攝影與電影表現
第一節 1950年代主流攝影與反主流攝影------------------------------------------77
第二節 克萊因的街頭攝影-------------------------------------------------------84
第三節  政治、社會、文化的關注------------------------------------------------89
第四章  克萊因之作品影響
第一節 理念與創作--------------------------------------------------------------99
第二節 Painted Contacts—跨媒材作品（繪畫、攝影、電影）-------------------106
第三節 議題--------------------------------------------------------------------110
結論---------------------------------------------------------------------------114
附錄—克萊因年表--------------------------------------------------------------115
引用資料-----------------------------------------------------------------------119
參考資料----------------------------------------------------------------------129
圖錄---------------------------------------------------------------------------131

引用資料
（一）中文書目
1.Arthur Rothstein著，李文吉 譯，《紀實攝影》。台北：遠流出版社，初版三刷，1999年。
2.Liz Wells 著，鄭玉菁 譯，《攝影學批判導讀》。台北：韋伯文化國際出版社，2005年。
3.約翰‧伯格（John Berger）著，吳莉君譯。《觀看的方式》（Ways of Seeing）。臺北市：麥田出版，2006年。
4.安德魯‧海伍德（Andrew Heywood）著，楊日青、李培元、林文斌、劉兆隆譯。《Heywood政治學新論》。臺北：韋伯文化，2009年。
5.林路。《攝影思想史》。浙江：浙江攝影出版社，2版，2009年。
6.森山大道 著，廖慧淑 譯。《犬的記憶》。臺北市：商周出版2009年。
7.森山大道 著，廖慧淑 譯。《犬的記憶—終章》。臺北市：商周出版，2009年。
8.森山大道 著，廖慧淑 譯。《犬的記憶—終章》。臺北市：商周出版，2009年。
9.森山大道 著，廖慧淑 譯。《晝的學校 夜的學校—森山大道論攝影》。臺北市：城邦出版，2010年。
10.夏洛特‧卡特（Charlotte Cotton）著，張世倫譯。《這就是當代攝影》（THE PHOTOGRAPH AS CONTEMPORARY ART）。新北市：大家出版社，2011年。
11.鄭意萱 著。《時尚攝影的故事》。臺北市：藝術家出版社，2011年。
12.大衛．貝特 著，林潔盈 譯，《攝影的思維關鍵》。台北：城邦文化出版社，2012年8月。
13.羅賓‧德里克（Derrick R）著。周瑩譯。《看不見的VOGUE：時尚攝影史的秘密》。中國：中國攝影出版社，2012年。
14.伍振榮 著，《黑白攝影 Black ＆ White》。香港：博藝集團有限公司出版，2013年。
15.林志明。《複多與張力—論攝影史與攝影肖像》。臺北市：田園城市文化，年初版一，2013年。
16.森山大道 著。黃亞紀 譯。《我的寫真全貌—森山大道自述對談》。臺北市：原點出版社，2013年。
17.篠山紀信、中平卓馬 著，黃亞紀 譯，《決鬥寫真論》。台北：臉譜出版社，2013年。
18.亨利・卡提耶－布列松 著，張禮豪、蘇威任 譯，《心靈之眼－決定性瞬間——布列松談攝影》。台北：原點出版社，2014年。
19.西蒙・波娃 著，邱瑞鑾 譯，《第二性》第二卷（下）。台北：貓頭鷹出版社，2015年。
20.森山大道、仲本剛 著，王淑儀 譯，《森山大道的台灣街拍》。台北：大藝出版社，2015年。
21.約翰‧伯格（John Berger）著，杰夫‧戴爾（Geoff Dyer）主編及導言，吳莉君等譯。《攝影的異義》（Understanding a Photograph）。臺北市：麥田出版，初版，2016年。
22.森山大道著，廖慧淑、賴庭筠譯。《過去是新鮮的，未來是令人懷念的：奠定創作的關鍵30年對談＆自述》。臺北市：原點出版社，2016年。

（二）西文書目
1.Klein, William, Contacts, Contrasto, 2008. Print.
2.Klein, William. ROME + KLEIN. London: Thames ＆ Hudson, 2009. Print.
3.Klein, William. Klein Paintings, Etc. Contrasto, 2013. Print.
4.Klein, William. William Klein: ABC. New York: Abrams, 2013. Print.
5.Klein, William. Brooklyn + Klein. Rome: Contrasto, 2014. Print.

（三）中文論文、期刊
1.黃仁益。〈解構。建構。時尚攝影—攝影創作與論述〉。世新大學圖文傳播暨數位出版學系，碩士創作論文，2010年。
2.張照堂，瞬間召喚：布列松的眼界與視象，中國時報－人間副刊，2012/10/3。
3.劉嘉楠：〈文化意義下的時裝攝影及其表現風格〉，《藝術生活》，第5期，2002年。

（四）西文論文、期刊
1.Battaglia, Andy. “Visions of Brooklyn Captured by a Man of Two Cities, William Klein—Photographer behind seminal 1950s work has a new volume, ‘Brooklyn + Klein,’ and exhibition at Howard Greenberg Gallery THE WALL STREET JOURNAL (2015-03-19)
2.Bondanella, Peter. “The Cinema of Federico Fellini (Indiana University) Cambridge Unversity Press Print.
3.Boxer, Sarah. “An In-Your-Face Style That Thrives on Chaos New York Times (2001)
4.Codinha, Alessandra. “Exclusive! Peter Lindbergh on His Women, His New Book, and What Makes a Photography Iconic VOGUE (2015-03-27)
5.Dave, Thompson. “Dancing Barefoot: The Patti Smith Story Chicago Review Press (2011) Print.
6.Goldberg, Vicki. “PHOTOGRAPHY VIEW; William Klein, Impolite Photographer New York Times, (1992) Print.
7.Grange, Ashley. “Basic Critical Theory for Photographers Taylor ＆ Francis (2005) Print.
8.Greenough, Sarah, “Irving Penn Platinum Prints. New Haven: Yale University Press, (2005) Print.
9.Grundberg, Andy. “Review-Photography; From the Rectangle Into the 3d Dimension. New York Times, (1990) Print.
10.Grundberg, Andy. “Richard Avedon, the Eye of Fashion, Dies at 81 The New York Times, 2004/10/02
11.Hebdige, Dick. Schimmel, Paul. Takashi, Murakami. Los, Angeles. “Flat Boy vs. Skinny: Takashi Murakami and the Battle for Japan Rizzoli International Publications, Inc. 2007
12.Hohenadel, Kristin. “A maverick in focus: A Paris retrospective puts the street-fueled intensity of provocative photographer William Klein in career-spanning context Los Angeles Times. (2006-01-15) Print.
13.Hohenadel, Kristin. “Photography; A maverick in focus; A Paris retrospective puts the street-fueled intensity of provocative photographer William Klein in career-spanning context Los Angeles Times（2006/01/15）
14.Jane, Richards. “In his own fashion: William Klein didn't give a hoot for hemlines and his pictures prove it. Jane, Richards. “Takes a snapshot of the subversive photographer UK: The Independent. (1994/02/15)
15.Klein, William. Caujolle, Christian. “William Klein: Centre national de la photographie (1985) Print.
16.Knorr, Katherine. “William Klein's Street Life The New York Times, 1996-10-26
17.Lacayo, Richard. “Come On, Baby, Do the Locomotion in a San Diego retrospective, William Klein comes home. Time, Vol.129, Issue 10（1987-03-09）
18.Marter, Joan M. “J. Heilpern. William Klein: Photographs (New York, 1981), The Grove Encyclopedia of American Art, Oxford art Online (2011)
19.Martin Parr, Gerry Badger. “The Photo book: A History Volume I (2004) London: Phaidon Press. Print.
20.Mckinley, Jesse. “Helmut Newton, Fashion Photographer The New York Times, 2004/01/24, Print.
21.Peres, Michael R. “The Focal Encyclopedia of Photography Taylor ＆ Francis, 2013/5/29. Print.
22.Rosenbaum, Jonathan. Goodbye Cinema, Hello Cinephilia: Film Culture in Transition, University of Chicago Press; First Edition (US) First Printing edition, 2010-10-15. Print.
23.Schneier, Matthew. “Guy Bourdin’s Work Stands the Test of Time The New York Times, 2015/01/21
24.Spotte, Stephen. “Zoos in Postmodernism: Signs and Simulation Fairleigh Dickinson University Press (2006) Print.
25.Tam, Kenn. “100 Most influential photographers of all time Professional Photographer Magazine (2010-02) Print.
26.Tan, Tarantino. Digital Fashion Photography (Boston Mass: Thomson Course Technology, 2005) Print.
27.White, Minor. “The article reviews the book- New York, by William Klein (1957) Image, Vol.6, Issue 7. Print.
28.Woodward, Richard B. “The Disturbing Photography of Sally Mann The New York Times (1992/09/27) Print.

（五）網路資源
1.“Case 4: Provoke Art Institute of Chicago. (2015/1/8) http://www.artic.edu/aic/collections/exhibitions/Ryerson/Provoke/4
2.65 years of William Klein at Foam Amsterdam. https://fashionunited.uk/v1/fashion/65-years-of-william-klein-at-foam-amsterdam/2013122012950
3.ALEX,〈攝影史上最有影響力的女攝影師——Annie Leibovitz〉（2011/03/05）https://photoblog.hk/6636/%E6%94%9D%E5%BD%B1%E5%8F%B2%E4%B8%8A%E6%9C%80%E6%9C%89%E5%BD%B1%E9%9F%BF%E5%8A%9B%E7%9A%84%E5%A5%B3%E6%94%9D%E5%BD%B1%E5%B8%AB-annie-leibovitz/
4.Amazon.com: Guy Bourdin, http://www.amazon.com/Guy-Bourdin-55s-Alison-Gingeras/dp/0714862584
5.Andy, Grundberg. “Irving Penn, The New York Times, 2009/10/07, http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/p/irving_penn/index.html
6.Artnet Worldwide Corporation. https://www.artnet.com/auctions/artists/william-klein/antonia-mirrors-paris
7.Ayers, Robert. “Martin Parr, Louise Blousing Media (2007/05/11) http://www.blouinartinfo.com/news/story/24111/martin-parr#
8.Camhi, Leslie. “Legendary Editorial Director Alexander Liberman's Influence Endures VOGUE, 2013/10/15: http://www.vogue.com/article/legendary-editorial-director-alexander-libermans-influence-endures
9.Campany, David. “Into the Light- William Klein: black + light, imprint/hackelbury gallery (2014) http://davidcampany.com/into-the-light/
10.Chuzha, Julia. “The Revitalizing Effect: 7 Photographers Who Dabble in Film Bird in Flight (2015/05/06) https://birdinflight.com/inspiration/experience/the-revitalizing-effect-7-photographers-who-dabble-in-film.html
11.Cindy Sherman profile. http://www. Phillips de pury.com
12.Cindy Sherman: EXHIBITIONS AT METRO (2008/11/15-12/18) http://www.metropictures.com/
13.Cosgrove, Ben. “TIME LIFE: The Photo That Changed the Face of AIDS (2014/11/25) http://time.com/3503000/behind-the-picture-the-photo-that-changed-the-face-of-aids/
14.Cotton, Charlotte. “PETER LINDBERGH, THE IMAGE MAKER The Observer (2008) http://www.peterlindbergh.com/press/217/peter-lindbergh-the-image-maker-en/
15.Crowe, Jerry. “Hantan’s fame was never fleeting, but it was brief (2007/05/07) http://articles.latimes.com/2007/may/07/sports/sp-crowe7
16.HackelBury Fine Art, Ltd, http://www.hackelbury.co.uk/artists/klein/klein.html
17.HackelBury Fine Art, Ltd. http://www.hackelbury.co.uk/artists/klein/klein.html
18.Hanley, William. “Philadelphia: Kilimnik Installations, Homage to the Blues (2007/05/08) http://www.blouinartinfo.com/news/story/268037/philadelphia-kilimnik-installations-homage-to-the-blues
19.Hendriksz, Vivian, “65 years of William Klein at Foam Amsterdam (2013-09-20) Fashion united, https://fashionunited.uk/v1/fashion/65-years-of-william-klein-at-foam-amsterdam/2013122012950
20.International Center of Photography, https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/william-klein?all/all/all/all/0
21.INTERNATIONAL OF CENTER PHOTOGRAPHER. http://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/william-klein?all/all/all/all/0
22.Jobbery, Liz. “William Klein as next month’s retrospective at Tate Modern will show, the US-born painter, photographer and film-maker has lived artistic life to the full “Financial Times (2012/09/22) https://www.ft.com/content/99568266-01f1-11e2-81ba-00144feabdc0
23.Manning, Jack. “Richard Avedon The New York Times, http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/a/richard_avedon/index.html
24.MoMA EXHIBITIONS. Cindy Sherman: The Complete Untitled Film Stills (1997/6/26-12/2) http://www.moma.org/visit/calendar/exhibitions/253
25.Moroz, Sarah. “William Klein: My pictures showed everything I resented about America, A resident of Paris for 60 years, Klein’s photographs of 1950s New York caught the city’s energy and grit and made his name. He talks about returning to Brooklyn, working for Vogue – and being praised by Picasso The guardian (2014/11/06) https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2014/nov/06/william-klein-my-pictures-showed-everything-i-resented-about-america
26.Photography of the 20th Century (Masters of Photography) http://www.masters-of-photography.com/K/klein/klein_articles1.html
27.Schulte, Sophie. “The Women of Peter Lindbergh: 14 Supermodel Portraits from the Iconic Photographer VOGUE (2014/11/23) http://www.vogue.com/article/peter-lindbergh-supermodel-photographs-christy-turlington
28.Staley-Wise Gallery, http://www.staleywise.com/collection/huene/huene.html
29.Steele, Valerie. “Identity Parade-Diesel's marketing strategy, Frieze, Issue 30 (1996-10) https://frieze.com/article/identity-parade?language=de
30.Steward, Sue. “William Klein: Black and Light 1952-2015, Hackelbury Fine Art - exhibition review—From abstract paintings to camera-less photography, the great cult artist's range is truly astonishing （2015-04-05）https://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/exhibitions/william-klein-black-and-light-1952-2015-hackelbury-fine-art-exhibition-review-10150960.html
31.THE ART STORY FOUNDATION, Man Ray, http://www.theartstory.org/artist-ray-man.htm
32.The J. Paul Getty Museum, http://www.getty.edu/art/collection/artists/1780/edward-steichen-american-1879-1973/
33.Wikipedia-Daido Moriyama. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daidō_Moriyama
34.今日新聞：〈藝術？情色？村上隆「我的寂寞牛仔」—拍賣價近5億〉（2008-05-17）http://www.nownews.com/n/2008/05/17/973371
35.林路 著，〈雷姆斯的：上海女人〉（2009/10/19）http://vision.xitek.com/famous/200910/19-29185.html/
36.參考Amazon書籍簡介 https://www.amazon.com/William-Klein-Life-Good-Books/dp/1935004085
37.張世倫 著，〈都市、風景、圖鑑：中平卓馬的攝影實踐（上）〉（2013-08-07）http://okapi.books.com.tw/article/index/7605

（六）影音
1.BBC影音: The Many Lives of William Klein (2012)
2.Broadway by Light (William Klein - 1958)
3.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmSx-bwLLCE
4.SONY影音: Brooklyn by William Klein, presented by Sony's Global Imaging Ambassadors Programme. Retrieved 2015-5
5.William Klein— A Photographer You Should Know, https://photofocus.com/2014/03/16/william-klein-a-photographer-you-should-know/

參考資料
1.Brian, Dillon. “THE S＆S INTERVIEW: William Klein to coincide with a retrospective at Tate Modern, the Brooklyn-born filmmaker and photographer discusses his life SIGHT AND SOUND, vol.23
2.Brian, Dillon. “WILLIAM KLEIN Sight ＆ Sound. Vol. 23 Issue 1, Jan2013
3.Brunet, Francois. “WILLIAM KLEIN: RETROSPECTIVE Aperture no183 Summ 2006
4.Campany, David. “William Klein: Tokyo Photoworks, Aut 2009-Wint 2010
5.Charles, Hagen. “PHOTOGRAPHY REVIEW; In Fashion and in The Streets New York Times (1994)
6.Edgar Allen Beem, “COLOR IN THE CITY OF LIGHT Photo District News, 2004
7.Elaine, Dundy. “Freeing the Spirit Vogue (2012)
8.Enright, Robert. “The fashionable body: essaying the aesthetics of fashion photography Border Crossings (1995)
9.Hadouchi, Olivier. “African culture will be revolutionary or will not be William Klein’s Film of the First Pan-African Festival of Algiers (1969) Third Text, Vol. 25, Issue 1 (2011)
10.Jared, Rapfogel. “The Delirious Fictions of William Klein Cineaste. Vol. 33 Issue 4, Fall-2008
11.Ken, Johnson. “In Photography, What Puzzles the Eye May Please the Mind New York Times (2009)
12.Lane, Anthony. “His kind of town The New Yorker (2002)
13.Martin, Parr. Gerry, Badger. “The Photobook: A History Volume I. London: Phaidon (2004) Press
14.Mauro, Alessandra. “ROME AND KLEIN Aperture, no196, Fall 2009
15.Ruth la Ferla, “A Photographer's Vision New York Times (2003)
16.Start, James. “William Klein: Hard-Edged Artist Warms to 'Messiah' Always on the go, his latest project is a film that juxtaposes versions of Handel's work with vignettes into the lives of those who sing it The Christian Science Monitor (1997)
17.Vince, Aletti. “Tabloid city: William Klein's New York verite The Village Voice (1996)
18.Woodward, Richard B. “An American Skeptic in Paris New York Times (2003)
19.Zimmer, William. “A Century Limned in the Critical Eye of the Photographer New York Times (1999)