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研究生:葉懿慧
研究生(外文):Yeh I-Hui
論文名稱:現代婦女流行服飾風格演變之研究-西元一九四五年-西元一九九○年
論文名稱(外文):Study on the Evolution of Modern Taiwanese Women''s Fashions: 1945-1990
指導教授:周緩徐達光徐達光引用關係
指導教授(外文):Chou, HuanHsu, Ta-Kuang
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:輔仁大學
系所名稱:織品服裝研究所
學門:民生學門
學類:服飾學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:1996
畢業學年度:85
語文別:中文
論文頁數:266
中文關鍵詞:流行服飾風格演變
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從西元1945年至西元1990年臺灣婦女流行服飾的研究,目前尚未有學者從事過系統性的整理與分析,乃因為所涉之相關資料甚是繁瑣與龐雜。但是,在二十世紀末的今天,臺灣的流行服飾詭譎多變,不論是來自於世界各地的流行品牌,或是臺灣本土服飾品牌都盡情地綻放著、揮灑著不同的丰姿,也令人目不暇給。而這繽紛多彩的流行服飾景象,並非一蹴而成,乃是歷經數十年的淬煉與演變方才呈現出來的。所以,基於研究者濃厚的興趣及欲窺這近半世紀以來,臺灣婦女流行服飾演變的風貌,因而乃以此範圍作為本論文之研究領域。
本論文共分為五章,第一章是緒論。第二章是根據臺灣從西元1945年至1990年的政治、經濟、社會文化、婦女生活及流行產業等背景因素進行分析,期進一步瞭解在不同年代的變遷下,臺灣婦女服飾所呈現的面貌。第三章是根據第二章分析出影響臺灣婦女服飾風格演變的因素,並以圖片資料展現出當時婦女穿著的型式。第四章則列舉出歐洲、美國、日本等國家從西元1945年至西元1990年婦女服飾風格的變遷,俾使瞭解其對臺灣婦女服飾變化影響的程度。第五章結論乃是根據第三章臺灣婦女的穿著及第四章歐洲、美國及日本等國家婦女的穿著,相互比較以瞭解臺灣和外來服飾之間的關係,並以人類需求層次理論及流行理論加以驗證之。
由本論文之研究得知,臺灣婦女服飾之風格深深受到外來服飾的影響,共可分為下列幾點:一、從日據時期延續下來直到今日的日本風格。二、西元1950年韓戰爆發,美軍協防臺海所引進的美式風貌。三、1979年政府開放觀光,讓國人藉著出國旅遊時有機會開始接觸到國外品牌服飾所帶來的影響。四、1987年解除戒嚴,降低進口關稅等政策的開放,各類歐洲服飾大舉進駐國內市場的現象。所以綜合上述原因,使得目前國內女裝市場不但群芳爭艷,而且婦女們對於服飾的選擇也更多元化了。另外本研究也發現外來服飾文化對臺灣婦女服飾影響的先後,依序是日本、美國、西歐。而且臺灣的婦女服飾對於外來流行訊息的接收速度,也由光復初期、60年代、70年代的比國外流行潮流稍遲,到了80年代已和世界之流行趨於同步了。
So far no systematic research has been undertaken on women''s fashions prevailing in Taiwan from 1945 to 1990. Such research involves extensive data gathering and historical analysis. As the 20th century draws to its end, Taiwan''s fashion trends are characterized by dazzling brand names from all over the world as well as from domestic designers. Such remarkable changes do not come i nto being overnight but are the result of complicated processes and interacting developments over the last few decades.
This research focuses on the actual changes in women''s wear since 1945 and the factors that have contraibuted to these changes.
The first one, an introductory chapter, is followed by Chapter Two which analyzes political, economic, social and cultural developments in Taiwan from 1945 t0 1990 so as to identify their impact on the fashion industry in general and on changes of women''s wear in particular. The third Chapter, based on the analysis of Chapter Two, illustrates the identified evolutionary changes in women''s fashions by means of pictures and exp.lanations. Chapter Four indicates the fashion styles prevailing in Europe, America and Japan during the same period so as to understand and evaluate the degree of their influence upon local women''s fashions. Finally, Chapter Five, based on findings of Chapters Three and Four, cross-examines international women''s fashion trends with local ones, attempting to explain relationships in terms of fashion theories and Maslow''s theory on basic human needs fulfillment.
The results of the study indicate that Taiwanese women''s wear trends have been subject to heavy influence from forgign fashions. The Japanese influence-strarting with the Japanese Occupation can be traced even in today''s fashion trends. When the Korean war broke out in 1950, the USA armed forces brought American fashions into Taiwan as they helped defend the Taiwan Straits. Since the government lifted the ban on overseas travelling in 1979, Taiwanese women have been exposed to and had access to the world''s top fashions. Furthermore, when Martial Law was finally lifted and tariffs were brought down, more and more European fashions have entered Taiwan ''s market. The women on this island now enjoy a wide range of choices. Present-day women have indeed caught up with t he world''s trendiest fashions, emerging from the slow pace of dragging years behind vogue in the 1960''s and 70''s to being in synch with world trends in the 1980''s and finally insisting on individualized tastes and preferences instead of blindly following prevailing trends in the 1990''s.
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