臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

本文以實驗方法探討不規則波淺化過程中亞重力波能量之變化。實驗在一大型斷面水槽( 300m*5m*5m )進行，11支波高計分別架設在水平底床與1/120之緩坡上以量測不同水深之波譜，並以JONSWAP波譜為模擬波譜。根據實驗結果定義亞重力波頻域在0.01265Hz到0.1265Hz之間，經由相似律得到此與現場之亞重力波頻域0.004Hz到0.04Hz相符合。
實驗結果顯示波譜淺化過程中在低頻帶的亞重力波能量隨水深變淺而逐漸增加，在碎波點附近產生最大值，並發現亞重力波的能量隨靜水位的增加而增大，最大的亞重力波能量在本實驗中發現均座落於0.05Hz處。再者由指示波法分析亞重力波波高，本文得到亞重力波波高與亞重力波能譜頻帶總能量之比值為1.88。

The evolution of infragravity energy of random waves during the shoaling process were conducted in a super wave tank (300m*5m*5m). Eleven wave gauges were installed along the flat section and a sloping bottom of 1/120 separately, and the typical JONSWAP spectrum was simulated in the experiments. According to the experimental results, the frequency band of infragravity waves were defined between 0.01265Hz and 0.1265Hz, which was corresponded to the infragravity waves from 0.004Hz to 0.04Hz in prototype.
From the results, we found that the energy of infragravity waves increases gradually from deep-water depth to shallow water area and reaches the maximum value near breaking point. It is also found that the energy of infragravity band increases as the still water level increases, and the maximum infragravity wave energy were located at 0.05Hz in our experiment. Furthermore, the significant wave height of infragravity band defined by zeroup-crossing method was calculated and obtained the ratio between significant wave height and total wave energy of infragravity wave is 1.88.

中文摘要 Ⅲ
英文摘要 Ⅳ
圖目錄 Ⅴ
表目錄 Ⅷ
符號說明 Ⅸ
第一章 緒論1
1-1 研究目的1
1-2 文獻回顧1
1-3 本文組織5
第二章 實驗設備、佈置、量測方法6
2-1 試驗設備及儀器6
2-2 試驗佈置7
2-3 試驗條件7
第三章 資料收集與分析方法10
第四章 結果與討論12
4-1 亞重力波頻域的決定13
4-2 亞重力波在淺化過程之變化14
4-3 波浪從淺化至碎波對亞重力波的影響20
4-4 亞重力波波高的估算23
4-5 水位對亞重力波的影響29
第五章 結論與建議35
5-1 結論 35
5-2 今後之研究課題與建議 36
參考文獻 37
致謝與自傳 40

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