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研究生:溫慧萍
論文名稱:水溶性幾丁聚醣在含微脂粒活力滋潤霜的應用
論文名稱(外文):The Applications of Water-Soluble Chitosans in Vital Moisture Cream Containing Liposome
指導教授:陳榮輝陳榮輝引用關係
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:國立海洋大學
系所名稱:食品科學系
學門:農業科學學門
學類:食品科學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:1999
畢業學年度:87
語文別:中文
論文頁數:80
中文關鍵詞:水溶性幾丁聚醣活力滋潤霜微脂粒
外文關鍵詞:Water-Soluble chitosanVital Moisture CreamLiposome
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本研究的目的在探討以高速微射流體所製造之不同分子量之水溶性幾丁聚醣在含微脂粒之化妝品上的應用,而微脂粒所包被的活性物質是神經醯胺及乳酸。本研究分為1、所製造之水溶性幾丁聚醣的物化特性包括分子量、去乙醯程度與溶解性質的測定;2、微脂粒的特性探討包括粒徑、黏度及安定性;3、含微脂粒活力滋潤霜的製造與特性的探討包括黏度、安定性、皮膚保水性、皮膚pH值、皮膚彈性及敏感性測試。結果如下:
以高速微射流體(15000psi)循環處理0、1、3、7、20次所製得的M0 chitosan、M1 chitosan、M3 chitosan、M7 chitosan、M20 chitosan分子量分別為1.65×106、1.45×106、1.35×106、1.25×106與0.85×106道爾吞,去乙醯程度約為78%,溶解度可達0.8 g/dl以上。
微脂粒的粒徑隨高速微射流體作用次數增加而下降且會趨向一定值,而隨著水溶性幾丁聚醣的濃度增加及分子量的減少,粒徑有增大的趨勢。微脂粒之粒徑分佈會隨循環次數之增加而下降,顯示粒徑分佈有趨向於窄化的情形。在含 0.1%及 0.3%水溶性幾丁聚醣微脂粒之表面黏度,隨著水溶性幾丁聚醣的濃度及分子量增加而增高;經微射流處理 1 次後,微脂粒表面黏度有明顯下降之趨勢,經 3次循環後則表面黏度會趨向一定值;在含 0.5%水溶性幾丁聚醣的微脂粒,呈現剪稀現象(Shear thinning),隨著循環次數之增加,微脂粒的表面黏度有上升的情形。添加水溶性幾丁聚醣之微脂粒較不添加水溶性幾丁聚醣微脂粒之安定性好。
含或不含微脂粒之活力滋潤霜之安定性,皆可維持2個月不會產生相分離,pH值皆在5.7-5.9之間。含微脂粒之活力滋潤霜之表面黏度比不含微脂粒者之表面黏度高,且隨添加水溶性幾丁聚醣的濃度增加及分子量減少而增加表面黏度。使用含微脂粒之活力滋潤霜不會有紅腫現象產生。塗抹後40分鐘皮膚pH值回升至正常的pH值。含微脂粒活力滋潤霜較不含微脂粒活力滋潤霜對皮膚保水性之效果明顯來得好,而含0.1%不同分子量水溶性幾丁聚醣的微脂粒活力滋潤霜間則無明顯差異。塗抹後4週對皮膚之彈性值皆有增加之情形,而含與不含微脂粒活力滋潤霜對皮膚彈性之差異不大。
The objectives of the study are to explore the application of water-soluble chitosan obtained by microfluidizing treatment in cosmetics containing liposome which is used to encapsulate lactic acid and ceramide. The study includes 1. To determine the changes in molecular weight (Mw), Degree of deacetylation (DD) and solubility of water-soluble chitosan after microfluidization treatment, 2. To characterize the characteristics of liposome such as particle size, apparent viscosity and stability, 3. To prepare and characterize the vital-moisture cream containing liposome. The characteristics of vital-moisture cream studied includes apparent viscosity, storage stability, water holding test, pH value, skin elasticity and safety test. The results obtained are:
The molecular weight of water-soluble chitosans obtained by microfluidizier treatment for 0, 1, 3, 7 and 20 cycles are 1.65×106, 1.45×106, 1.35×106, 1.25×106 and 0.85×106 Dalton respectively. Degree of deacetylation are around 78%. Solubility of those chitosans are higher than 0.8 g/dl in water.
The particle size of liposomes containing water-soluble chitosans decreased with increasing cycles of microfluidizing treatment then reached to a constant value. The particle size of liposomes increased with increasing concentration and decreasing molecular weight of water-soluble chitosans used. The size distribution reduced with increasing cycles of microfluidizing treatment. The apparent viscosity of liposome containing 0.1% and 0.3% water-soluble chitosan increased with increasing concentration or molecular weight of water-soluble chitosans used. The apparent viscosity of liposome decreased slightly after first pass of microfluidizing treatment. After three passes treatment, the apparent viscosity reached to a constant value. The apparent viscosity of liposome containing 0.5% water-soluble chitosan increased with increasing cycles of microfluidizing treatment and showed shear thinning property. Liposomes containing water-soluble chitosans are more stable than that without water-soluble chitosan.
The stability of vital-moisture cream with or without liposome were stable for more than two months at 50℃. The products pH are between 5.7-5.9. The apparent viscosity of vital moisture cream containing liposome is higher than that without liposome and increased with increasing concentration or decreasing molecular weight of water-soluble chitosans used. The safety test results in no erythema based on the Daize score test. Water holding capacity in terms of electrical capacitance increase ratio are higher for those containing liposome but did not show a significant difference amoung liposome containing different concentration of water-soluble chitosans. Skin eleasticity increased with time during four weeks test period but did not show a significant difference amoung without and with liposome containing 0.5% different molecular weight of water-soluble chitosans.
中文摘要 1
Abstract 3
一、前言 5
二、文獻整理 7
1.幾丁質類物質 7
1.1 幾丁質/幾丁聚醣的構造 7
1.2 幾丁質/幾丁聚醣的分布 7
1.3 幾丁質/幾丁聚醣的溶解性質 8
1.3.1 幾丁質的溶劑系統 8
1.3.1 幾丁聚醣的溶劑系統 8
1.4 水溶性幾丁質類物質的製備 8
1.4.1 化學修飾法 9
1.4.2 酸水解法 9
1.4.3 酵素水解法 9
1.4.4 機械力法 10
1.5 幾丁質/幾丁聚醣在化妝品的應用 10
1.5.1 幾丁質類物質之保溼性質 10
1.5.2 幾丁質類物質之增稠性、成膜性 11
1.5.3 幾丁質類物質對乳化系統之作用 11
1.5.3 幾丁質類物質的安全性評估 12
2. 微脂粒的結構與製備 12
2.1 微脂粒的結構 12
2.2 微脂粒的型式種類 13
2.3 微脂粒的組成份 13
2.4 微脂粒的製備 14
2.4.1 高速微射流體 15
2.4.2 超音波法 15
2.4.3 逆向揮發法 16
2.5 微脂粒對皮膚之滲透性 16
2.5.1 微脂粒與細胞膜之作用 16
2.5.2 微脂粒對皮膚之滲透性 17
2.5.3 微脂粒對皮膚之作用 17
2.5.4 微脂粒對皮膚之安全性 18
2.6微脂粒的應用 18
2.6.1 醫藥 18
2.6.2 化妝品 19
2.6.3 食品 19
3.果酸對皮膚的作用 20
3.1果酸的定義 20
3.1果酸的來源、種類 20
3.2 果酸對皮膚的作用 21
3.3 果酸對皮膚的安全性評估 21
三、材料與方法 23
1. 材料 23
1.1. 蝦殼原料 23
1.2. 化學藥品 23
1.3. 化妝品原料 23
2. 方法 23
2.1. 水溶性幾丁聚醣的製備 24
2.1.1. 幾丁質的製備 24
2.1.2. 幾丁聚醣的製備 24
2.1.3. 水溶性幾丁聚醣的製備 24
2.2. 水溶性幾丁聚醣的特性 25
2.2.1. 幾丁聚醣分子量的測定 25
2.2.2. 幾丁聚醣去乙醯程度的測定 26
2.2.3. 幾丁聚醣溶解度的測定 26
2.3. 含果酸、神精醯胺微脂粒活力滋潤霜之試製 27
2.4. 含果酸、神精醯胺微脂粒之特性 28
2.4.1.粒徑分佈 28
2.4.2.黏度測定 28
2.4.3.安定性測定 28
2.5. 含果酸、神精醯胺微脂粒活力滋潤霜之品質 29
2.5.1.安定性測試 29
2.5.1.1.高溫恆溫測試 29
2.5.1.2.離心機分離試驗 29
2.5.2.黏度測定 29
2.5.3.安全性測試 29
2.5.3.1. 貼布測試法 29
2.5.3.2. 動物試驗法 30
2.5.3.2. 皮膚pH質之測定 30
2.5.4.有效性測試 30
2.5.4.1.皮膚保水力之測定 30
2.5.4.2.皮膚彈性 in vivo 效果之測定 31
3.實驗流程 32
四、結果與討論 33
1. 水溶性幾丁聚醣的特性 33
1.1. 分子量 33
1.2. 去乙醯 33
1.3. 溶解度 34
2. 含果酸、神精醯胺微脂粒之特性 34
2.1. 粒徑 34
2.2. 黏度 35
2.3. 安定性 37
3. 含果酸、神精醯胺微脂粒活力滋潤霜之品質 38
3.1 品質特性. 38
3.1.1 安定性 38
3.1.2 黏度 39
3.2. 對皮膚之安全性測試 40
3.2.1. 皮膚敏感性 40
3.2.2. 皮膚pH質 41
3.3. 對皮膚之有效性測試 41
3.3.1. 皮膚保水力 41
3.3.2. 皮膚彈性 42
五、結論 44
六、參考文獻 45
七、圖 55
八、表 73
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