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研究生:劉正琪
研究生(外文):Cheng-Chi Liu
論文名稱:波浪通過潛堤之二階理論解析
論文名稱(外文):Second Order Analytic Solution of Wave Field with A Submerged Breakwater
指導教授:涂盛文涂盛文引用關係李兆芳李兆芳引用關係
指導教授(外文):Sheng-Wen TwuJaw-Fang Lee
學位類別:博士
校院名稱:國立成功大學
系所名稱:水利及海洋工程學系
學門:工程學門
學類:河海工程學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2002
畢業學年度:90
語文別:中文
論文頁數:189
中文關鍵詞:二階理論解直擺式造波板潛堤透水結構物攝動法自由波
外文關鍵詞:second order analytic solutiona flap wavemakera submerged breakwaverthe permeable structuresperturbation methodfree waves
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本論文研究目的係以理論解析方法研究直擺式造波非線性問題,以及波浪通過不透水、透水潛堤等潛式結構物之非線性波浪問題,並提出完整之二階理論解。針對非線性邊界值問題採用攝動法求解觀念將非線性問題展開至第二階量,分別得到第一階量及第二階量之線性邊界值問題,再依序求解第一階解及第二階解。本文內容包括三部份,依序為非線性造波問題、波浪通過不透水潛堤及波浪通過透水潛堤。
對於非線性造波問題之研究,本文以複數重新推導直擺式造波問題,提出完整之二階理論解藉以探討二階造波特性。所得理論解與Sulisz and Hudspeth(1993a)之結果相同。由質量傳輸之分析結果顯示,在半無限長造波水槽中Stokes波所具有往前傳之質量傳輸,與自由波所具有往回傳之質量傳輸兩者相等。此點亦符合質量守恆之概念。
藉由非線性造波理論解析之基礎,本文解析波浪通過不透水潛堤之非線性問題,並提出二階理論解。於理論解析上利用分區求解觀念將整個問題領域分成堤前、堤上及堤後三區,配合各分區相鄰交界面上滿足壓力及質量通率連續條件構成完整之邊界值問題。經由二階理論解得知波浪通過潛堤時,堤上第二階波高之空間演變與第二階Stokes波與第二階自由波之位相速度差有關,而透過區第二階自由波大小則與堤上第二階波高之演變過程有關。
由不透水潛堤二階理論解之延伸,本文進一步解析波浪通過透水潛堤之非線性問題,並提出二階理論解。潛式透水結構具有等向、均質且為高滲透性,求解方法則利用李和劉(1995)之理論解析方法於求解第二階量邊界值問題。理論計算結果顯示堤上第二階波浪僅Stokes波會受到透水潛堤消能影響而呈現減衰現象,而堤上及透過區第二階波高會隨潛堤摩擦係數增加而增大,隨孔隙率增加而減小。受透水潛堤之消能作用,堤上及透過區第二階非線性量均小於潛堤不透水之情況。
The purpose of this thesis is to study the nonlinear problems of wave generated by a flap wavemaker and waves passing submerged structures including impermeable and permeable cases, and theoretical solutions up to the second-order are pursued. The nonlinear boundary value problems are rewritten into the first-order and the second-order problems by using the perturbation method, and theoretical solutions are derived for each order. The content of this thesis includes three parts, namely, the nonlinear wavemaker problem, nonlinear waves passing submerged impermeable structures, and nonlinear waves passing submerged permeable structures.
For the nonlinear wavemaker problem, complex variables are used to derive theoretical solution for the problem, which is used to study nonlinear characteristics of the problem. The present solution is proved to be identical to that obtained by Sulisz and Hudspeth(1993a). The interpretation on mass transport indicates that in a semi-infinite wave channel the outgoing mass transport induced by the Stokes waves is balanced by an incoming mass transport induced by the free waves, and therefore the conservation of mass is satisfied.
Based on experience of derivation of the nonlinear wavemaker problem, this study is moved forward onto the nonlinear theory of waves passing submerged impermeable structures. In the derivation, the problem domain is divided into three regions before, after, and above the structure. Each region is matched through continuity equations of pressure and mass flux with neighboring regions. From the present solution the evolution of the second-order waves above the structure depend on phase differences between the Stokes wave and the free wave, and that determines the waves behind the structure.
The second-order theory of impermeable structure is further extended to that for the permeable structures. The porous structure is considered as isotropic, homogeneous, and highly permeable. The analytic method proposed by Lee and Liu (1995) is extended for the second-order solution. The present theory indicates that energy dissipation induced by the porous structure produces decay only on the Stokes waves. The second-order waves behind and above the structure are increased with increasing friction, and are decreased with increasing porosity, however, both magnitudes are less than that of impermeable cases.
中文摘要 I
英文摘要 II
目錄 III
表目錄 VI
圖目錄 VII
符號說明 XIII
第一章 緒 論 1-1
1-1 研究動機與目的 1-1
1-2 文獻回顧 1-3
1-3 本文組織架構 1-7
第二章 非線性造波問題二階理論解析 2-1
2-1 問題之描述 2-1
2-2 理論解析 2-3
2-2-1 第一階解 2-5
2-2-2 第二階解 2-7
2-3 自由水面波形變化量 2-16
2-4 造波水槽中水粒子速度 2-18
2-5 造波水槽中質量傳輸 2-20
2-6 計算結果與討論 2-23
第三章 波浪通過不透水潛堤二階理論解析 3-1
3-1 問題之描述 3-1
3-2 理論解析 3-7
3-2-1 第一階邊界值問題解析 3-7
3-2-2 第二階邊界值問題解析 3-12
3-2-3 與時間 有關之第二階量邊界值問題解析 3-16
3-2-4 與時間項無關之第二階量邊界值問題解析 3-25
3-3 波浪通過不透水潛堤二階量之計算 3-30
3-3-1 自由表面水位變化 3-30
3-3-2 質量傳輸 3-33
3-4 計算結果與討論 3-38
3-4-1 理論解之驗証 3-38
3-4-2 理論解級數項之收斂性 3-46
3-4-3 波浪通過潛堤之非線性特性 3-51
3-4-4 第二階量波浪之能量移轉現象 3-69
第四章 波浪通過透水潛堤二階理論解析 4-1
4-1 問題之描述 4-1
4-1-1 第一階量之邊界值問題 4-6
4-1-2 第二階量之邊界值問題 4-8
4-2 理論解析 4-10
4-2-1 第一階量邊界值問題解析 4-10
4-2-2 第二階量邊界值問題解析 4-25
4-3 計算結果與討論 4-54
4-3-1 理論解之驗証與適用性 4-54
4-3-2 理論解級數項之收斂性 4-59
4-3-3 波浪通過透水潛堤時波形之非線性 4-60
第五章 結論與建議 5-1
5-1 結論 5-1
5-2 建議 5-2
參考文獻 R-1
附錄 A A-1
附錄 B B-1
自述與著作 C-1
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