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研究生:黃景光
研究生(外文):Jing-Guang Huang
論文名稱:非線性波變形及平均水位變化之數值解析
論文名稱(外文):Numerical Studies on the Transformation and Mean Water Level Variation of Nonlinear Waves
指導教授:林西川
指導教授(外文):Shi-Chuan Lin
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:國立成功大學
系所名稱:水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班
學門:工程學門
學類:河海工程學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2002
畢業學年度:90
語文別:中文
論文頁數:49
中文關鍵詞:波浪變形平均水位變化
外文關鍵詞:Wave TransformationMean Water Level Variation
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  • 下載下載:31
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本文引用Rienecker及Fenton(1981)所提之富立葉近似法(Fourier approximation method)並依據波浪能量通率守恆及動量通率守恆的原則解析均一底床上之波浪由深海傳遞至海岸過程中之淺化效應、碎波、碎波後波浪之衰減及平均水位的變化情形。在解析過程中,加入底床摩擦損失及平均水位的變化的影響,但不考慮波浪在淺灘之反射效應。比較本文模式的計算結果與前人理論及實驗結果均相當吻合,可說明本文之方法對於解析非線性之波浪變形有高度之適用性。
由本文數值計算結果發現波浪之淺化波長、波高、能量、能量傳遞速度輻射應力及平均水位等物理量皆與入射波之深海波浪尖銳度及坡度有關,但底床坡度對波高、波長、能量傳遞速度等並無顯著的影響。當波浪尖銳度及底床坡度越大,波浪淺化波高之遞增率越快、且越容易碎波。而在碎波後,波高及平均水位溯升皆與深海波浪尖銳度及坡度有關,即深海波浪尖銳度越大及坡度越緩,相同水深之波高越小而平均水位溯升速度則越快。本文之碎波波高、碎波界限及碎波後之波高減衰與前人理論及實驗結果比較,均可得到相當滿意的結果。
最後,本文將淺化係數、平均水位變化及波後之波高減衰繪製成圖以提供日後工程應用之參考。
The Fourier approximation method which depends on the conversation of energy flux and momentum flux with considering of energy loss due to bottom friction and wave breaking regardless of reflection in the shallows is applied to solving the problem of wave transformation on general slope including waves shoaling, breaking and attenuation after breaking as well as wave set-up and set-down during the wave advancing towards the coast. In comparison with the present results as well as experimental data accomplished by the previous method, very good coincidence is obtained. This comparison confirms that present method that solved the waves transformation of the nonlinear waves is applicable.
The numerical results that wavelength, wave height, wave energy, energy transmitted velocity, radiation stress and mean water level variation are related to the steepness of deep sea of incident wave and slopes of bottoms, however the influence of slopes on the wavelength, wave height and energy transmitted velocity can be neglected are found. The greater wave steepness of deep sea and slopes are, the faster wave height increases and easier wave breaks. After wave breaks, wave height and set-up are in relation with the wave steepness of deep sea and slopes, that is, the greater wave steepness of deep sea and milder slopes result in the smaller wave height at same water depth and rapider rate of set-up .The computational results of characteristics of breaking waves and attenuation after breaking are compared with experiment data and various available empirical formulas and agreement is found to be good.
Finally, the coefficient of shoaling, mean water level variation and attenuation of wave height after breaking will be draw a diagram for designing of engineering.
目 錄
中文摘要 Ⅰ
英文摘要 Ⅱ
謝誌 Ⅲ
目錄 Ⅳ
圖目錄 Ⅵ
符號說明 Ⅷ
第一章 緒論 1
1-1 研究動機 1
1-2 前人研究 2
1-3 本文組織 3
第二章 相關理論 4
2-1 波動理論 4
2-2 富立葉近似解析法 5
2-3 波浪之淺化 6
2-4 本文模式 11
第三章 數值結果與討論 16
3-1 本文數值模式之驗證 16
3-1-1 波高變化之驗證 16
3-1-2 平均水位變化之驗證 17
3-2 淺化過程之波浪特性變化 18
3-2-1 淺化過程之波長變化 18
3-2-2 淺化過程之波高變化 19
3-2-3 淺化過程之能量變化 21
3-2-4 淺化過程之能量傳遞速度變化 22
3-2-5 淺化過程之能量通率變化 23
3-2-6 淺化過程之輻射應力及平均水位變化 23
3-3 波浪碎波之探討 24
3-3-1 碎波波高 24
3-3-2 碎波指標 26
3-4 碎波後之波浪減衰 27
第四章 結論 30
參考文獻 46
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