臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

本研究之目的在探討海菜（Monstroma nitidum）水溶性抽出物應用在含W/O/W型多重乳化物之乳液的特性、安全性及有效性。
本研究包含二部份，第一部份探討以海菜水溶性抽出物作為乳化安定劑添加於外部連續水相以及內、外部水相皆添加海菜水溶性抽出物對於W/O/W型多重乳化物之形態、平均粒徑與分佈、形成率、流變性質以及安定性的影響；第二部份則探計含海菜水溶性抽出物之W/O/W型多重乳化物之乳液對皮膚敏感性、pH值的變化以及保溼效果之影響。
結果顯示，以二階段乳化方法所製備之乳化物皆為W/O/W多重相乳化物；在外部連續水相及內部分散水相皆添加海菜水溶性抽出物之多重相乳化物，其所形成的內部水滴較小且均勻分散於油滴中，而僅在外部連續相添加三仙膠或海菜水溶性抽出物者，其內部水滴較大且與油膜接觸。隨著內部水相所含海菜水溶性抽出物濃度的提高，所形成W/O/W多重相乳化物之平均粒徑，由6.52 μm下降至4.56 μm，在粒徑分佈上則皆為一窄分佈，顯示分散油滴之粒徑大小，差異不大；在形成率的表現上則隨著內部水相所含海菜水溶性抽出物的濃高提高而增加，可達到99.7 %。
以三仙膠或海菜水溶性抽出物所製備之W/O/W多重相乳化物皆為非牛頓型假塑性流體，表面黏度則隨著內部水相的海菜水溶性抽出物濃度的增加而上升，且在安定性上有較好的表現，在50 ℃貯存可達70天而未有相分離的現象。
添加海菜水溶性抽出物之W/O/W多重相乳化物之乳液的pH值在6.82至6.85之間，接近中性且不會造成皮膚的過敏性；塗抺後，皮膚之pH值會有些微下降但在100分鐘後即恢復原來皮膚之pH值，在皮膚保溼效果上亦以添加海菜水溶性抽出物之效果最好，在塗抺120分鐘後仍具有保溼效果。

The objectives of the study are to explore the effect of using Monostroma nitidum aqueous extracts (aqueous extracts) on the characteristic, efficacy and safety of lotions containing vitamin C and vitamin E in W/O/W multiple emulsion. The study includes 1. To explore the effect of adding Monostroma nitidum aqueous extracts on the morphorlogy, average droplet size, oil globules distribution, yield and rheological properties of the W/O/W multiple emulsions thus prepared. 2. To explore the efficacy of applying lotions containing W/O/W multiple emulsions on water holding, pH value and sensitivity of the skin.
The result shows that the W/O/W emulsions prepared from different formulas by two-stage emulsification method were multiple structure. The particle size of internal droplet decreased with increasing concentrations of aqueous extracts in the internal aqueous phase. For those emulsions formed whithout aqueous extracts in the internal aqueous phase the particles of internal droplets were bigger and they contacted with oil membrane. The distribution of particle size of W/O/W multiple emulsions studied are all in a narrow range. The W/O/W multiple emulsion containing xanthan gum had a diameter ranging between 11 and 14 μm, with a mean value of 10.59 μm. The W/O/W multiple emulsion containing 2.5 ℅ w/w aqueous extracts in external phase and 0.5 ℅ w/w aqueous extracts in inner aqueous phase had a diameter ranging between 3 and 7 μm, with a mean value of 4.56 μm. The W/O/W yield increased with increasing concentrations of aqueous extracts in the internal aqueous phase. All the multiple emulsions containing xanthan gum or aqueous extract were pseudoplastic fluids.
The apparent viscosity and storage stability increased with increasing concentrations of aqueous extracts in the internal aqueous phase.
The pH value of lotions containing W/O/W multiple emulsions were between 6.82 and 6.85. Skin sensitivity shows no erythema by the Daize score test. The pH value of the skin decreased after applying the W/O/W lotions but regained its normal pH value within 100 mins. The lotions containing aqueous extracts have better water holding than that containing xanthan gum.

中文摘要 1
Abstract 3
一、前言 5
二、文獻整理 8
1. 海藻之多醣類 8
2. 海藻之蛋白質 8
3. 海藻多醣類的萃取 9
4. 海藻多醣之功能特性 10
5. 海藻多醣類在化妝品上之應用 11
6. W/O/W多重乳化物 11
6.1. W/O/W多重乳化物的製備 12
6.2. W/O/W多重乳化物的不安定機制 12
6.3. 乳化劑對W/O/W多重乳化物安定性的影響 13
6.3.1. 親脂性乳化劑 13
6.3.2. 親水性乳化劑 14
6.3.3. 乳化劑間之交互作用 14
6.4. 蛋白質對W/O/W多重乳化物安定性的影響 14
6.5. 多醣類對W/O/W多重乳化物安定性的影響 15
6.6. 多重乳化的應用 15
三、材料與方法 17
1. 材料 17
1.1. 海菜原料 17
1.2. 化學藥品 17
1.3. 化妝品原料 17
2. 方法 17
2.1. 海菜水溶性抽出物之製備 18
2.2. W/O/W型多重乳化乳液之製備 18
2.3. W/O/W型多重乳化乳液之物理特性 19
2.3.1. 形態觀測 19
2.3.2. 粒徑與分佈 19
2.3.3. 黏度測定 19
2.3.4. 形成率測定 20
2.4. 含維生素C、維生素E之 W/O/W型多重乳化乳液品質之測定 20
2.4.1. 安定性之測定 20
2.4.1.1. 高溫恆溫試驗 20
2.4.1.2. 循環變溫試驗 21
2.4.1.3. 室溫恆溫試驗 21
2.4.1.4. 離心機分離試驗 21
2.4.1.5. 超音波分離試驗 21
2.4.2. 安全性測試 22
2.4.2.1. 動物試驗法 22
2.4.2.2. W/O/W多重乳化乳液pH值測定 22
2.4.2.3. 皮膚pH值測定 22
2.4.3. 有效性測試 23
四、結果與討論 24
1.W/O/W多重乳化物的物理特性 24
1.1. 分散油滴的形態 24
1.2. 分散油滴的平均粒徑與分佈 24
1.3. 形成率 25
1.4. 含W/O/W多重乳化物之乳液的黏度 26
1.5. 安定性 27
2. 含W/O/W型多重乳化之乳液的安全性與有效性 28
2.1. 皮膚敏感性 28
2.2. 皮膚之pH值變化 29
2.3. 皮膚之保濕性 29
五、結論 31
六、參考文獻 32
七、表 39
八、圖 46

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