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研究生:蔡季真
研究生(外文):Chi-chen Tsai
論文名稱:油脂與乳化劑型對防曬產品的SPF值之影響
論文名稱(外文):Effect of Emulsion Types and Oils on the SPF of Sunscreen Products
指導教授:官常慶官常慶引用關係
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:靜宜大學
系所名稱:應用化學研究所
學門:自然科學學門
學類:化學學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2005
畢業學年度:93
語文別:中文
論文頁數:125
中文關鍵詞:SPF值油脂乳化劑型防曬產品
外文關鍵詞:sunscreen productSPF (sun protection factor)emulsion typeoil
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本研究是探討油脂與乳化劑型對於防曬產品的SPF值之影響,共選用17種油脂分別作為配方中的油相進行測試,另外並探討分別以五種高紫外線吸收作用的油脂及五種高SPF值的油脂作為油相時,再搭配四種乳化系統所產生的結果。實驗中共使用五種化學性防曬劑,分別是Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Eusolex 2292)、Homosalate (Eusolex HMS)、Ethylhexyl salicylate (Eusolex OS)、Benzophenone-3 (Eusolex 4360)、Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 9020);並以體外(in vitro)測定SPF值的方法,來測試樣品的SPF值。
由紫外線吸收測定的結果顯示,Avocado oil、Macadamia oil、Sunflower oil與PEG-10 sunflower glycerides這四種油脂對於UVB或UVA均具有良好的吸收作用,其吸收積分面積皆大於或幾近防曬劑Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate、Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane於濃度為0.01mg/ml的吸收積分面積;而Dimethicone、Cyclomethicone、Phenyl trimethicone這三種聚矽氧烷類的油脂,不論是在UVB或UVA的範圍,其紫外線吸收值都不高。
以單一種油脂作為油相的O/W型乳化體的條件下,17種油脂中,不論與何種防曬劑搭配,均以PPG-15 stearyl ether作為油相時所測得的SPF值最高。
油脂的紫外線吸收值與防曬產品的SPF值雖無絕對成正比的關係,但是仍有其關聯性存在,而油脂的紫外線吸收值是屬於較簡便的測定方式,所以還是可以作為篩選使用於防曬產品中的油脂之參考依據。
油脂的極性與防曬產品的SPF值之間確實存在關聯性;當配方中所使用的油脂極性愈大時,所得到的SPF值有愈高的趨勢。
三脂肪酸甘油酯類的油脂與Benzophenone-3與Butyl methoxydi- benzoylmethane兩種UVA防曬劑搭配時,所得到的SPF值明顯優於石化烴類、酯類與聚矽氧烷類的油脂;但Cyclomethicone、Dimethicone在與前述兩種UVA防曬劑搭配時,所得到的SPF值則明顯偏低。石化烴類,是屬於低SPF值的油脂類別。
在配方中併用五種高紫外線吸收作用的油脂或是五種高SPF值的油脂,對產品的SPF值皆會產生提升的作用。而四種乳化系統中,均以Stearic acid+Triethanolamine(TEA)+Glyceryl stearate(GMS)為乳化劑之O/W型乳化配方所得到的SPF值最高。
The effects of emulsion types and oils on the SPF of sunscreen products were investigated. We tested seventeen kinds of oils as the oil phase in the formulation. We also discussed using five kinds of oils with high absorbance in ultraviolet and five kinds of oils with high SPF value as the oil phase collocated with four emulsion types, in respectively.
Five sunscreens such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Eusolex 2292), homosalate (Eusolex HMS), ethylhexyl salicylate (Eusolex OS), benzophenone-3 (Eusolex 4360), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 9020) were used in this research. The in vitro method was used to determination the SPF value of samples.
Avocado oil, macadamia oil, sunflower oil and PEG-10 sunflower glycerides can absorb more UVA and UVB light than the sunscreens such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane in the concentration of 0.01 mg/ml. Dimethicone, cyclomethicone and phenyl trimethicone absorb less UVA and UVB light than other oils.
Using only one oil as the oil phase prepared the O/W emulsion, in seventeen kinds of oils, no matter with which kind of sunscreen agent, the SPF value of PPG-15 stearyl ether is highest.
Though the UV absorbing value of the oil has no relation definitely in direct with SPF value, the relation still exists. The method of determining the UV absorbing value of oils is more simply, so it could be the basis of choosing oil in the formulation of sunscreen products.
Really, there is dependence between the polarity index of the oil and the SPF value. When the polarity index of the oil is larger, the SPF value is higher.
Benzophenone-3 and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane could obtain higher SPF value with triglycerides than with hydrocarbons, esters and silicones. Cyclomethicone and dimethicone, when match with two sunscreen agents of above-mentioned sunscreen agents, receive the SPF value obviously on the low points. The hydrocarbon is an oil classification of low SPF value.
Using five kinds of oils with high absorbability in ultraviolet or five kinds of oils with high SPF value as the oil phase, all of them will increase the function of the SPF value. Among four emulsifiers, there is the highest SPF value by using stearic acid, triethanolamine (TEA) and glyceryl stearate (GMS) as the emulsifier.
中文摘要……………………………………………………………………I
英文摘要………………………………………………………………….III
目錄………………………………………………………………………..V
表目錄…………………………………………………………………..VIII
圖目錄…………………………………………………………...………...X
第一章 緒論…...…………………………………………………………1
1-1 紫外線之介紹…………………………………………………...1
1-1-1 紫外線的分類……………………………………………...1
1-1-2 影響紫外線強度的因素…………………………………...3
1-2 防曬劑之介紹…………………………………………………...6
1-3 防曬係數之測定……………………………………………….16
1-3-1體內(in vivo)測定方式…………………………………...16
1-3-2 體外(in vitro)測定……………………………………….19
1-4 油脂…………………………………………………………….21
1-5 研究目的……………………………………………………….25
第二章 實驗…………………………………………………………….26
2-1 儀器與器材…………………………………………………….26
2-2 藥品…………………………………………………………….27
2-3 實驗方法……………………………………………………….29
2-3-1 油脂之紫外線吸收測定………………………………...29
2-3-2 配方之製備……………………………………………...29
2-3-3 SPF值之測定…………………………………………...37
2-3-4 粒徑之測定……………………………………………...39
2-3-5 乳化狀態之測定………………………………………...39
2-3-6 統計分析………………………………………………...40
第三章 結果…………………………………………………………….41
3-1 油脂之紫外線吸收測定…………………………………….41
3-1-1 油脂於紫外線範圍之最大吸收波長…………………...41
3-1-2 油脂於紫外線範圍之吸收曲線與吸收的積分面積…...41
3-2 SPF值之測定…………………………………………………..46
3-2-1 單一油脂乳化之SPF值………………………………...46
3-2-2 併用五種高紫外線吸收作用油脂v.s.乳化劑型之
SPF值………….……………………………………...54
3-2-3 併用五種高SPF值油脂v.s.乳化劑型之SPF值………55
3-3 粒徑之測定…………………………………………………….58
3-3-1 單一油脂乳化之平均粒徑……………………………...58
3-3-2 併用五種高紫外線吸收作用油脂v.s.乳化劑型之平
均粒徑…………………………………………………..59
3-3-3 併用五種高SPF值油脂v.s.乳化劑型之平均粒徑……59
3-4 乳化狀態之測定……………………………………………….63
3-4-1 單一油脂乳化…………………………………………...63
3-4-2 併用五種高紫外線吸收作用油脂v.s.乳化劑型……….63
3-4-3 併用五種高SPF值油脂v.s.乳化劑型………………….63
第四章 討論…………………………………………………………….88
4-1 油脂之紫外線吸收…………………………………………….88
4-2 SPF值之測定…………………………………………………..90
4-2-1 單一油脂乳化之SPF值………………………………...90
4-2-2 併用五種高紫外線吸收作用油脂v.s.乳化劑型之
SPF值…………………………………………………..98
4-2-3 併用五種高SPF值油脂v.s.乳化劑型之SPF值……100
第五章 結論………………………………………………………….102
第六章 參考文獻……………………………………………………...104
第七章 附錄…………………………………………………………...109
7-1 油脂資料……………………………………………………...109
7-2 防曬劑資料…………………………………………………...112
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