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研究生:彭巧君
研究生(外文):CHIAO CHUN
論文名稱:芳香水的化妝品效能性研究
論文名稱(外文):Study on Cosmetic Efficiency of Some Aromatic Water
指導教授:官常慶官常慶引用關係
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:靜宜大學
系所名稱:應用化學研究所
學門:自然科學學門
學類:化學學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2005/07/
畢業學年度:93
語文別:中文
論文頁數:118
中文關鍵詞:香草芳香水抑菌力抑制dopachrome生成抗氧化紫外線吸收
外文關鍵詞:antimicrobial activityabsorption of ultraviolet lightantioxidant activityinhibit the formation of dopachromeaqueous aromatic extracts of herbs
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本研究選擇適合台灣氣候和土壤栽種的48種香草植物製備成芳香水,並針對此48種芳香水進行各項試驗。由抑菌試驗結果顯示:對於痤瘡桿菌,斑葉到手香和到手香芳香水具有輕度的抑菌作用,橄欖和茶樹芳香水具有中度的抑菌作用。對於表皮葡萄球菌,橄欖芳香水具有高度的抑菌作用。對於皮屑芽孢菌,土肉桂芳香水具有高度的抑菌作用。由Dopachrome測定結果顯示:艾草、樟樹、文心蘭、刺蔥、馬纓丹及香水樹花等六種芳香水具有促進Dopachrome生成的作用,其餘如土肉桂、丁香羅勒、羅勒、橄欖、柳葉馬鞭草及其他芳香水均具有抑制Dopachrome生成的效果。由紫外線吸收測定結果顯示:48種芳香水對於紫外線A和紫外線B均有吸收作用,其中橄欖、蘿蔔及土肉桂芳香水在UV-A和UV-B的吸收積分面積相似於市售防曬劑Octyl methoxycinnamate於0.5 mg/mL濃度時的吸收積分面積。由抗氧化性測定的結果顯示:橄欖、丁香羅勒、貓穗草、椰香天竺葵及蘿蔔芳香水對於DPPH自由基具有較強的清除能力。馬鬱蘭、茶樹、白千層、丁香羅勒、茴香艾及絲瓜芳香水有較強的螯合亞鐵離子能力。丁香羅勒、橄欖及椰香天竺葵芳香水有較強的還原力。
因此,芳香水對於抗痤瘡或抗頭皮屑等皮膚的菌群、抑制黑色素生成、防止紫外線造成皮膚曬傷或曬黑及延緩皮膚老化等化妝品的效能,均有其獨特的性能,期能提供化妝品產業與香草產業發展的參考。
A variety of aqueous aromatic extracts have been prepared from forty-eight kinds of herbs, which are suitable to be planted in Taiwan. The antimicrobial activity, the inhibition for the formation of dopachrome, the absorption of ultraviolet light, and the antioxidant activity have been carried out for those of aqueous aromatic extracts. For acne pathogentsant, the aqueous aromatic extracts prepared from Plectranthus amboinicus ''Variegata'', Plectranthus amboinicus, Canarium album and Melaleuca alternifolia possess slight to moderate antimicrobial activity. For Staphylococcus epidermidis, the aqueous aromatic extract prepared from Canarium album possess high antimicrobial activity. For Malassezia furfur, the aqueous aromatic extract prepared from Cinnamomum japonicum possess high antimicrobial activity. The aqueous aromatic extracts prepared from Artemisia princes, Cinnamomum camphora, Oncidium flexuosum, Zanthoxylum ailanthoides, Lantana camara, and Cananga odorata possess promotion of dopachrome formation based on the dopachrome inhibition test, and the others possess inhibit the formation of dopachrome. The aqueous aromatic extracts prepared from Ocimum basilicum, Raphanus sativus, and Cinnamomum japonicum show the same absorptive area under UV-A and UV-B wavelength compared to the sunscreen product such as octyl methoxycinnamate in the concentration of 0.5 mg/ml. The aqueous aromatic extracts prepared from Canarium album, Ocimum gratissimum, Nepeta cataria, Pelargonium grossularioides, and Raphanus sativus show high scavenging capacity with DPPH radical. The aqueous aromatic extracts prepared from Origanum majorana, Melaleuca alternifolia, Melaleuca leucadendron, Ocimum gratissimum, Artemisia oligoarpa, and Luffa cylindrica show chelating activity on Fe2+. The aqueous aromatic extracts prepared from Ocimum gratissimum, Canarium album, and Pelargonium grossularioides have high reducing power.
Therefore, those aqueous aromatic extracts can be applied to the skin care products since they possess various functions such as UV-A and UV-B absorption, antioxidant activity, and antibacterial activity. They can provide information of development for the industry of the cosmetics and aromatic herbs.
壹、緒論 ……………………………………………………………… 1
1-1 香草植物簡介……………………………………………… 2
1-1-1 植物芳香療法……………………………………………… 3
1-1-2 常用香草植物的功能及其應用…………………………… 4
1-2 皮膚構造與生理機能……………………………………… 7
1-2-1 皮膚構造…………………………………………………… 7
1-2-2 皮膚生理機能……………………………………………… 11
1-3 皮膚與病原菌……………………………………………… 13
1-4 皮膚與黑色素……………………………………………… 14
1-4-1 黑色素簡介………………………………………………… 15
1-4-2 黑色素的形成……………………………………………… 15
1-4-3 黑色素生成的抑制作用…………………………………… 19
1-5 皮膚與紫外線…………………………………………… 20
1-5-1 紫外線對皮膚的影響…………………………………… 20
1-5-2 常見的防曬劑…………………………………………… 21
1-6 皮膚與自由基……………………………………………… 23
1-6-1 自由基與活性氧的定義………………………………… 23
1-6-2 自由基與活性氧的種類………………………………… 24
1-6-3 自由基與活性氧對生物體分子的傷害………………… 28
1-6-4 抗氧化劑簡介…………………………………………… 30
貳、實驗部分……………………………………………………… 39
2-1 實驗儀器與藥品………………………………………… 39
2-1-1 儀器……………………………………………………… 39
2-1-2 藥品……………………………………………………… 40
2-1-3 芳香水植物名稱………………………………………… 42
2-1-4 測試菌株及來源………………………………………… 44
2-1-4-1 菌種的活化與保存……………………………………… 44
2-1-4-2 病原菌接種源…………………………………………… 45
2-1-5 培養基的成分…………………………………………… 45


2-1-6 培養液及培養基之製備………………………………… 46
2-2 實驗方法………………………………………………… 48
2-2-1 芳香水製備方法………………………………………… 48
2-2-2 芳香水抑菌試驗………………………………………… 48
2-2-3 芳香水對Dopachrome生成的影響……………………… 49
2-2-4 芳香水的紫外線吸收測定……………………………… 51
2-2-5 芳香水的抗氧化性測定………………………………… 52
2-2-5-1 清除α,α-diphenyl-β-picrylhydrazyl自由基能力測定 52
2-2-5-2 螯合亞鐵離子能力測定………………………………… 52
2-2-5-3 還原力測定……………………………………………… 53
參、結果…………………………………………………………… 54
3-1 芳香水抑菌試驗………………………………………… 54
3-1-1 芳香水對Propionibacterium acne的抑菌試驗………… 54
3-1-2 芳香水對Staphylococcus aureus的抑菌試驗………… 54
3-1-3 芳香水對Staphylococcus epidermidis的抑菌試驗…… 55
3-1-4 芳香水對Malassezia furfur的抑菌試驗……………… 55
3-2 芳香水對Dopachrome生成的影響……………………… 64
3-3 芳香水的紫外線吸收測定………………………………… 68
3-3-1 芳香水於UV-A和UV-B範圍的最大吸收波長測定…… 68
3-3-2 芳香水於UV-A和UV-B範圍的吸收積分面積………… 68
3-4 芳香水的抗氧化性測定…………………………………… 73
3-4-1 清除α,α-diphenyl-β-picrylhydrazyl自由基能力測定… 73
3-4-2 螯合亞鐵離子能力測定…………………………………… 77
3-4-3 還原力測定………………………………………………… 81
肆、討論……………………………………………………………… 85
4-1 芳香水抑菌試驗…………………………………………… 85
4-2 芳香水對Dopachrome生成的影響……………………… 86
4-3 芳香水的紫外線吸收測定………………………………… 87
4-4 芳香水的抗氧化性測定…………………………………… 88
伍、結論……………………………………………………………… 90
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