# 臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

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 本文利用Dally等人 (1985) 提議之水躍模式探討波浪在沙洲型海灘斷面(bar beach profile) 碎波及其碎波後能量消散和波浪變形。文中先由能量守恆方程式推導波浪在沙洲型海灘碎波後波浪變形之解析解，依許等人 (1998) 之研究，沙洲型海灘斷面以五次多項式表示，在極端情況分別檢驗在斜坡海灘及Dean 剖面 (1977) 波浪衰減之情形。根據本文所得到之碎波帶內能量消散公式，分別探討式中參數 (如能量衰減係數、碎波帶寬度以及碎波指標) 對於碎波帶內波浪能量影響。
 This paper extends the fifth-order polynomial theory of Hsu et al. (1998) for describing the bar beach profile. The hydraulic jump of Dally et al. (1985) and the energy conservation law are incorporated into the present model to account for wave breaking phenomenon and corresponding energy dissipation and wave variation properties. In particular, the wave energy decay characteristics on the cases of sloping beaches and Dean profile are examined and discussed, respectively. Reasonably good agreements are both achieved. Furthermore, the wave parameter effects in the present method on wave energy dissipation properties in the surf-zone are investigated, including energy decay coefficient, width of breaking zone and breaking index.
 中文摘要 IAbstract II誌謝 III目錄 IV表目錄 VI圖目錄 VII符號說明 VIII第一章 緒論 11-1 研究動機與目的 11-2 前人研究 31-2-1 海灘斷面形狀 31-2-2 波浪碎波與碎波後之波浪變形 61-3 本文組織 8第二章 碎波帶內波浪變形模式 92-1 統計法 112-2 水躍模式法 132-3 紊流能量法 16第三章 碎波帶內波浪變形之分析 173-1 沙洲型海灘斷面形狀之描述 173-2 碎波帶內波浪變形之理論解析 183-3 極端值情況分析 253-3-1 斜坡底床 253-3-2 Dean 剖面 27第四章 結果與討論 294-1 能量衰減係數之影響 304-2 碎波指標之影響 324-3 沙洲形狀之影響 34第五章 結論與建議 385-1 結論 385-2 建議 39參考文獻 40
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Fluids., A1, pp. 1331-1340 (1989).11.Dean, R.G., “Equilibrium beach profile：U.S. Atlantic and Gulf Coasts,” Ocean Engineering Report No.12, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, Delaware, pp. 45 (1977).12.Dean, R.G., “Coastal sediment processes：Toward engineering solutions,” Proceedings Coastal Sediments ’87, ASCE, pp.1-24 (1987).13.Dean, R.G., “Equilibrium beach profiles：Characteristics and applications,” Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 7 No. 1, pp. 53-84 (1991).14.Fenneman, N. M., logy, Vol. 6, No. 4, pp. 532-545 (1902).15.Horikawa, K. and C.T. Kuo, “A study on wave transformation inside the surf zone,” Proceedings of 10th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Tokyo, ASCE, Vol. 1, pp.217-233 (1966).16.Hsu, T.W. and S.H. Ou, “Beach Profile Characteristics due to Inclined Waves,” Proc zlst Int.Conf. Coastal Eng., Malaga, ASCE. pp. 121-135 (1988).17.Hsu. T.W. and H.Wang, “Geometric characteristics of storm beach profiles,” Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 13, No. 4, pp. 1102-1110 (1997).18.Hsu. T.W. and I.F. Tseng, and C.P. Lee, “A new shape function for bar-type beach profile,” Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 22, No. 3, pp. 728-736 (2006).19.Inman, D. L., M.H.S. Elwany and S.A. Jenkins, “Shorerise and bar-berm profiles on ocean beaches,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 98, No. 10, pp.18181-18199 (1993).20.Isobe, M., “A Parabolic Equation Model for Transformation of Irregular Waves due to Refraction, Diffraction and Breaking,” Coastal Engineering in Japan, Vol. 30, pp. 33-47 (1987).21.Keulegan, G.H. and W.C. Krumbein, “Stable configuration of bottom slope in a shallow sea and its bearing on geological processes,” Earth Ocean Science Transaction, AGU, Vol. 30, No. 6, pp. 855-861 (1949).22.Kirby, J. T., “Propagation of surface waves over undulating bed,” Physics Fluid, Al, pp. 1898-1899 (1989).23.Komar, P. D. and W. T. McDougal, “State of the art practice in coastal engineering,” Coastal Engineering, pp. 12-13 (1992).24.Larson, M., “Quantification of beach profile change,” D. Sc. Thesis, Department of Water Resources Engineering, University of Lund, Sweden (1988).25.Larson, M., “Equilibrium profile of a beach with varying grain size,” Proceedings Coastal Sediments ’91, ASCE, Vol. 1, pp. 905-919 (1991).26.Larson, M. and N.C. Kraus, “Prediction of beach fill response to varying wave and water level,” Proceedings Coastal Zone ’89, ASCE, pp. 607-621 (1989).27.Lee, P.Z.-F., “The submarine equilibrium profile: a physical model,” Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 10, No. 1, pp. 1-17 (1994).28.Mattioli, F., “Resonance reflection of surface waves by non-sinusoidal bottom undulations,” Applied Ocean Research, 13, pp. 49-53 (1991).29.Mizuguchi, M., “An Heuristic Model of Wave Height Distribution in Surf Zone,” Proceedings of 7th International Coastal Engineering Conference, Cape Town, South Africa, ASCE, Vol. 1, pp. 278-289 (1980).30.Moore, B.D., “Beach profile evolution in response to changes in water level and wave height,” Master Thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware (1982).31.Short, A.D., “Multiple offshore bars and standing waves,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 80, pp. 3838-3840 (1975).32.Sunamura, T. and K. Horikawa, “Two-dimensional beach transformation due to waves,” Proceedings 14th International Coastal Engineering Conference, ASCE, pp. 920-938 (1974).33.林政毅、許泰文 (1998) ，「沙洲型海灘之形成及沿岸流分布特性」，國立成功大學水利及海洋工程學系研究所碩士班碩士論文。34.郭金棟，「海岸工程學」，中國土木工程學會，第 359~361 頁 (1998)。35.郭一羽，「海岸工程學」，文山書局，第 203~205 頁 (2001)。36.許泰文，「海岸漂沙」。海岸工程學，第 203-212 頁 (2001)。37.許泰文，「近岸水動力學」，中國土木水利工程學會，第 124~134 頁 (2003)。38.許泰文、廖建明、林政毅，「暴風型海灘剖面預測模式研究」，中國土木水利工程學刊，第十卷，第二期，第 271-278 頁 (2003)。39.曾以帆、李忠潘、張憲國，「沙洲型海灘剖面形狀函數之研究」，國立中山大學海洋環境及工程學系研究所碩士班碩士論文 (1997)。40.曾以帆、許泰文、李忠潘、張憲國，「一般型海灘斷面形狀函數之探討」，第二十三屆 海洋工程研討會論文集，第 494-495 頁 (2001)。41.鄭凱文、許榮中，「以SBEACH模擬颱風暴浪引起之海灘剖面變化」，國立中山大學海洋環境及工程學系研究所碩士班碩士論文 (2003)。
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 1 以SBEACH模擬颱風暴浪引起之海灘剖面變化 2 沙洲型海灘剖面形狀函數之研究 3 沙洲型海灘之形成及沿岸流分佈特性 4 非線性緩坡方程式之理論推導與解析 5 陡坡海床上之波浪變形及碎波能損研究

 1 38.許泰文、廖建明、林政毅，「暴風型海灘剖面預測模式研究」，中國土木水利工程學刊，第十卷，第二期，第 271-278 頁 (2003)。

 1 整合型海岸變遷模式於台中港淤砂整治之應用 2 雙溪河口沙洲地形變動之成因探討 3 以完整型緩坡方程式模擬不規則波之變形 4 海岸緩衝區與自然保護區相關性之分析研究-以好美寮海岸為例 5 系列潛堤應用於海岸防護之可行性分析 6 潛堤附近碎波氣泡之實驗研究 7 海岸緩衝區之研究-以好美寮海岸為例 8 以PIV量測垂直射流在波浪作用下之流場特性 9 台南縣海岸保育之研究 10 後勁溪河口結構物興建前後海岸線變遷之研究 11 近岸風浪推算資料同化之研究 12 Boussinesq方程式應用於波浪通過人工沙漣之研究 13 宜蘭海岸地形斷面特性分析與預測 14 波浪通過系列潛堤之流場研究 15 近岸風浪推算之研究

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