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研究生:賴昆賢
研究生(外文):Kuen-Shian Lai
論文名稱:沙洲型海灘斷面碎波帶內波浪之變形
論文名稱(外文):Wave Height Variation across Surf Zone of Bar Beach Profile
指導教授:許泰文許泰文引用關係歐善惠歐善惠引用關係
指導教授(外文):Tai-wen HsuShan-hwei Ou
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:國立成功大學
系所名稱:水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班
學門:工程學門
學類:河海工程學類
論文種類:學術論文
畢業學年度:96
語文別:中文
論文頁數:44
中文關鍵詞:波浪變形能量消散沙洲型海灘碎波帶
外文關鍵詞:energy dissipationbar beach profilewave variationsurf zone
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本文利用Dally等人 (1985) 提議之水躍模式探討波浪在沙洲型海灘斷面(bar beach profile) 碎波及其碎波後能量消散和波浪變形。文中先由能量守恆方程式推導波浪在沙洲型海灘碎波後波浪變形之解析解,依許等人 (1998) 之研究,沙洲型海灘斷面以五次多項式表示,在極端情況分別檢驗在斜坡海灘及Dean 剖面 (1977) 波浪衰減之情形。根據本文所得到之碎波帶內能量消散公式,分別探討式中參數 (如能量衰減係數、碎波帶寬度以及碎波指標) 對於碎波帶內波浪能量影響。
This paper extends the fifth-order polynomial theory of Hsu et al. (1998) for describing the bar beach profile. The hydraulic jump of Dally et al. (1985) and the energy conservation law are incorporated into the present model to account for wave breaking phenomenon and corresponding energy dissipation and wave variation properties. In particular, the wave energy decay characteristics on the cases of sloping beaches and Dean profile are examined and discussed, respectively. Reasonably good agreements are both achieved. Furthermore, the wave parameter effects in the present method on wave energy dissipation properties in the surf-zone are investigated, including energy decay coefficient, width of breaking zone and breaking index.
中文摘要 I
Abstract II
誌謝 III
目錄 IV
表目錄 VI
圖目錄 VII
符號說明 VIII
第一章 緒論 1
1-1 研究動機與目的 1
1-2 前人研究 3
1-2-1 海灘斷面形狀 3
1-2-2 波浪碎波與碎波後之波浪變形 6
1-3 本文組織 8
第二章 碎波帶內波浪變形模式 9
2-1 統計法 11
2-2 水躍模式法 13
2-3 紊流能量法 16
第三章 碎波帶內波浪變形之分析 17
3-1 沙洲型海灘斷面形狀之描述 17
3-2 碎波帶內波浪變形之理論解析 18
3-3 極端值情況分析 25
3-3-1 斜坡底床 25
3-3-2 Dean 剖面 27
第四章 結果與討論 29
4-1 能量衰減係數之影響 30
4-2 碎波指標之影響 32
4-3 沙洲形狀之影響 34
第五章 結論與建議 38
5-1 結論 38
5-2 建議 39
參考文獻 40
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