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研究生:黃胤中
研究生(外文):Yin Chung
論文名稱:斜坡上不規則波衍生亞重力波之研究
論文名稱(外文):Infragravity Wave Induced by Irregular Wave on a Beach
指導教授:黃煌煇黃煌煇引用關係蕭士俊蕭士俊引用關係
指導教授(外文):H. H. HwungS. C. Hsiao
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:國立成功大學
系所名稱:水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班
學門:工程學門
學類:河海工程學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2008
畢業學年度:96
語文別:中文
論文頁數:51
中文關鍵詞:亞重力波
外文關鍵詞:infragravity wave
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亞重力波在不規則波入射衍生方面並沒有太多的研究,由各種不同頻率合成產生的不規則波,其衍生之亞重力波波高演化的特性亦不同於一般規則波的結果,本研究於1:10斜坡之上探討不規則波入射衍生亞重力波。實驗於國立成功大學水工試驗所大型斷面水槽進行,在水槽中放置93支電容式波高計及3支溯升計用以得到波浪演化時高空間解析的資訊,並以JONSWAP波譜作為入射條件,配合改變入射波高,對其生成之亞重力波能量、波高成長趨勢進一步的探討,以對此現象作進一步的解釋。
由前人研究中可得知坡度越陡對亞重力波的影響會造成自由長波主導的現象,吾人將亞重力波拆成入射波及反射波的部份,發現到其自由長波波高皆高於限制長波。進一步將分析亞重力波內各成份波之成長情形,其波浪成長趨勢皆以Green’s Law描述方式演化,而由無因次底坡度參數值介在0.614到11.67之間,皆顯示出移動碎波點機制作用明顯之證據。
The evolution of infragravity energy of random waves over a 1/10 uniform sloping each was carried out by analyzing the experimental data conducted in a super wave tank with length of 300 meter, width of 5 meter, and depth of 5.2 meter at Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory (THL). To obtain a high spatial resolution of surface elevation, a total of 96 wave gauges were installed along the wave tank. In addition, the JONSWAP spectrum was used in the experiments. The components of infragravity waves were separated through multi-step method proposed by Battjes et al. (2004). Based on our results, it is found that the magnitude of free waves (reflected wave) was always larger than that of bound waves except at the locations near the shoreline. Additionally, the components of different frequency band of infragaravity show the amplitude growth according to Green’s Law during the shoaling process. Experimental data show that the generation of infragravity waves is mainly contributed by moving breakpoint mechanism.
中文摘要 Ⅲ
Abstract Ⅳ
誌謝 Ⅴ
目錄 Ⅵ
圖目錄 Ⅷ
表目錄 Ⅹ
符號說明 ⅩⅠ
第一章 緒論 1
1.1 研究動機 1
1.2 文獻回顧 1
1.3 本文組織 5
第二章 實驗設備與造波條件 7
2.1 試驗設置 7
2.2 造波條件 8
第三章 分析方法 12
3.1 傅立葉分析 12
3.2 包絡線分析 14
3.3 波浪入反射分離 15
3.3.1 基本轉換 16
3.3.2 最小平方法 17
3.3.3 多步驟近似 21
3.3.4 驗證 24
第四章 結果與討論 27
4.1 時間域的選定 27
4.2 亞重力波域之選定 29
4.3 水位分析 31
4.4 頻譜分析 35
4.5 波高觀測亞重力波之演化情形 38
4.6 亞重力帶內成份頻帶之波高演化 41
4.7 無因次化底床參數 44
第五章 結論與建議 46
參考文獻 48
自傳 51
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3.van Dongeren, A.R., J. van Noorloos, K. Steenhauer, J. Battjes, T. Janssen and A. Reniers, 2004, “Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of subharmonic gravity waves.”, Proc. 29th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., Vol. 2, P.P. 1225-1238.
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