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研究生:林志虎
研究生(外文):Zhi-Hu Lin
論文名稱:含七白膏複方萃取物化妝品之抗老化與美白有效性評估
論文名稱(外文):Efficacy of anti-aging and whitening cosmetics containing CHI-PAI-KAO Fu Feng Chinese herb remedies extracts
指導教授:陳榮輝陳榮輝引用關係
指導教授(外文):Rong-Huei Chen
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:國立臺灣海洋大學
系所名稱:食品科學系
學門:農業科學學門
學類:食品科學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2008
畢業學年度:96
語文別:中文
論文頁數:120
中文關鍵詞:七白膏中草藥白芷白蘞細辛辛夷桃仁白附子冬瓜子抗老化美白複方
外文關鍵詞:CHI-PAI-KAOChinese herbAngelicae dahuricaeAmpelopsis japonicaAsarum heterotropoidesMagnolia bioniiprunus persicaAconitum carmichaeliBenincasa ceriferaanti-agingwhiteningFu Feng
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本論文目的在探討七白膏複方及其七味單方白芷、白蘞、桃仁、細辛、辛夷、白附子和冬瓜仁,以水、50%乙醇及95%乙醇作為萃取溶劑,所得到之萃取物供做抗老化與美白化妝品原料上的有效性確認與評估。實驗分為兩部分:1、中藥萃取物之抗老化與美白能力評估,分為化學性試驗和細胞株試驗兩部分。化學性試驗包括抗氧化成份之定量分析、抗氧化活性測定和抑制酪胺酸?能力之測定。後選出較好之抗氧化及抑制酪胺酸?能力之萃取物,接續進行細胞株試驗,以細胞培養方法觀察人類纖維母細胞 CCD-966SK 及人體惡性黑色素腫瘤細胞 A375 的存活率影響;促進纖維母細胞分泌膠原蛋白及抑制黑色素腫瘤細胞形成黑色素的能力;2、含中藥複方萃取物化妝品乳霜的製造與特性的探討包括安定性、皮膚保水性、皮膚彈性、美白度、皮膚粗糙度及敏感性測試。其結果如下:
抗氧化成份之定量分析實驗結果顯示,單方白芷、白蘞、細辛、辛夷之萃取物含有較高之總酚類化合物及黃酮類化合物;抗氧化活性實驗結果顯示:此四味單方大多以50%乙醇萃取物有較高之清除DPPH自由基、還原力;50%乙醇之七白膏萃取物比其他兩種萃取方式,有較高之清除DPPH自由基,還原力,因此七味單方選用50%乙醇萃取物,接續進行其他三種抗氧化活性實驗之探討。結果顯示:白蘞及辛夷同時具有較高之清除過氧化氫、抑制超氧陰離子生成及螫合亞鐵離子能力,複方及比例加權之複方之萃取物則以清除過氧化氫能力較高,因此進一步之抗老化細胞實驗將選用白蘞和辛夷做為單方、50%乙醇萃取之複方與50%乙醇萃取之比例加權之複方之萃取物進行探討。在CCD-966SK人類纖維母細胞株試驗以50%乙醇萃取之白蘞,辛夷,複方及比例加權調配過之複方萃取物進行比較,結果顯示,複方及比例加權調配過之複方都有促進纖維母細胞 CCD-966SK 增生的效果,白蘞及辛夷對於纖維母細胞之毒性較高於500 �慊/ml即有抑制作用;促進膠原蛋白分泌亦以比例加權後之複方較好,於500 �慊/ml有顯著差異,顯示複方及比例加權後之複方均具有促進CCD-966SK細胞之增生,及促進分泌膠原蛋白功能。
體外酪胺酸?的抑制能力實驗,結果顯示以50%乙醇之白芷萃取物其抑制效果較佳,於10 mg/ml 下有 60% 的酪胺酸?抑制活性,複方則以50%萃取物有相同之效果,因此進一步之美白實驗將以白芷做為單方、複方與複方比例加權之探討。以50%乙醇萃取之白芷,複方及比例加權調配過之複方進行黑色素腫瘤細胞 A375 細胞株試驗,結果顯示:細胞存活率均隨萃取物濃度提高而下降,於500 �慊/ml抑制率以複方(40%) > 白芷(20%);50%乙醇萃取之複方可抑制黑色素腫瘤細胞由UVA及UVB引發之黑色素生成分別達65% 及60%,比例加權後之複方可抑制由UVA及UVB引發之黑色素生成分別達60% 及60%,白芷在UVA引發之黑色素生成抑制效果較複方好,於UVB引發組則較複方差,而中草藥萃取物都有抑制黑色素腫瘤細胞生成黑色素的效果。
中草藥乳霜及空白組 ( Control ) 之安定性,經離心 30 分鐘後無相分離情形,在高溫、室溫、低溫恆溫和循環變溫中貯存 2 個月以上皆可維持正常不變質,顯示該產品具有良好的安定性。使用含中藥萃取物之乳霜不會有皮膚紅腫現象產生。 5 週之皮膚測試,皮膚之彈性明顯度 R2 有增加之情形;皮膚粗糙度、平滑度指標值也有降低趨勢。在對皮膚美白效果上塗抹含中藥萃取物之乳霜 2 週後,黑色素指標值有降低趨勢。
The objectives of the study are to explore the efficacy of the anti-aging and whitening cosmetics that containing extracts obtained with using water, 50% ethanolic and 95% ethanolic as solvents to leach the CHI-PAI-KAO fu fang (CPKFF), a Chinese herb remedies, and their each single component of Angelicae dahuricae, Ampelopsis japonica, prunus persica, asarum heterotropoides, Magnolia bionii, Aconitum carmichaeli and Benincasa cerifera .
The study includes two parts. The first part is to evaluate the efficacy of anti-aging and whitening of the extracts of CPKFF with in vitro chemical tests and cell line tests. In vitro chemical tests included the determination the content of antioxidant active ingredients, in vitro antioxidant activity and tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the extracts. The extracts of better performance were used for cell line tests. Cell line tests included the determination fibroblast and melanocyte viability; melanin inhibition, proliferation effect of the extracts on fibroblast and melanocyte, enhancing collagen secretion from cultured fibroblast. The second part is to prepare and characterize of the cream products containing different extracts of CPKFF. The characteristics cream products studied including storage stability, safety, and efficacy i.g. water holding capacity, skin elasticity, skin whitening, skin roughness.
Results of chemical analysis showed that A. dahuricae, A. japonica, A. heterotropoides, and M. bionii had higher total polyphenol and total flavonoid contains. 50% ethanolic extracts of these four extracts showed better DPPH scavenging and reducing poser. 50%. ethanolic extracts of CPKFF showed better DPPH scavenging and reducing poser than the extracts of other two solvents, therefore, 50% ethanol was used as solvent to extract the other three remedies and performed other three in vitro antioxidant activity. Results indicated that A. japonica (50E) and M. bionii (50E) showed strong hydrogen peroxide superoxide anion and ferrious chelating ability. CPKFF (50E) and new weight ratio CPKFF showed strong hydrogen peroxide-scavening ability. Therefore the A. japonica (50E), M. bionii (50E), CPKFF and new weight CPKFF are choosen for cell line tests. Results showed that the CPKFF and new weight ratio of CPKFF extracts promoted the cell viability on CCD-966SK. CPKFF (50E) can increase CCD-966SK cell proliferation (67%) at 500 �慊/ml, higher than CPKFF (W), CPKFF (95E). CPKFF showed dose dependent on enhancing collagen secretion of CCD-966SK. A. japonica (50E) and M. bionii (50E) had inhibition effect on CCD-966SK cell viability at 500 �慊/ml.
Results of mushroom tyrosinase inhibition tests revealed that at concentrations less than 10 mg/ml, A. dahuricae (50E) having 60% inhibition. CPKFF (50E) showed similar results. So the A. japonica (50E), CPKFF and new weight ratio of CPKFF were used for A375 cell line test, Results showed that the cell viability of A375 decreased inverse proportional to the concentration of extracts of new weight ratio of CPKFF. CPKFF (50E) (40%) > A. dahuricae (50E)(20%). CPKFF inhibit the melanin produce induced by UVA and UVB radiation to 65% and 60% respectively. New weight ratio CPKFF inhibit the melanin produce induced by UVA and UVB radiation to 60% and 60% respectively. A. dahuricae (50E) inhibit the melanin produce induced by UVA and UVB radiation to 55% and 53% respectively. The four extracts of CPKFF all revealed inhibition on melanin formation. So CPKFF extract may have the potential in whitening.
The stabilities of cosmetic product containing with or without Chinese herbal remedies extracts were stable for centrifuging (3000 rpm, 30 min), for more than two months at high temperature (50℃), room temperature (25℃), low temperature (4℃) and temperature swing (4℃-25℃-50℃) storage. These results showed that cream product had good stability. The safety test resulted in no erythema based on the Daize score test. Skin elasticity (R2) for those whom have applied the cream products containing Chinese herbal remedies extracts increased over time during 5 weeks test period. Skin roughness and skin smoothness also decreased over time during 5 weeks test period. Skin whitening effect increased over time during 2 weeks test period and show a significant difference for melanin index.
摘要 v
Abstract vii
表目錄 vi
圖目錄 viii
壹、前言 1
貳、文獻整理 3
一、國內化妝品市場之趨勢 3
二、中草藥化妝品之簡介 3
1. 歷代典籍考察 3
2. 藥材的分類別及其成分、來源介紹 4
三、皮膚老化之簡介 8
1.皮膚的構造 8
2. 經皮吸收 12
3. 皮膚老化的特徵變化與成因 12
4. 皮膚老化的自由基學說 16
四、皮膚黑色素生成之簡介 20
1. 黑色素合成 20
2. 黑色素代謝機轉 22
3. 表皮黑色素單位之功能 22
4. 影響酪胺酸?氧化作用之因素: 23
5. 酪胺酸?的結構及與黑色素的關係 26
6. 酪胺酸?抑制劑的作用機理 26
7. 黑色素生成的信號調控 27
參、材料與方法 28
一、實驗大綱 28
1. 抗老化能力評估 28
2. 美白能力評估 28
二、實驗流程圖 29
三、實驗材料 30
1. 細胞株 30
2. 中藥材料之來源 30
3. 藥品 30
4. 設備 32
四、實驗方法 35
1. 中藥粗萃取物之製備 35
2. 成分分析 35
3. 中藥萃取物抗老化能力評估 37
4. 細胞培養 42
4. 中藥萃取物美白有效性試驗 45
5. 含中藥萃取物乳霜之製備 46
6. 含中藥萃取物乳霜之品質 47
肆、結果與討論 51
1. 中藥萃取物之特性 51
1.1. 萃取率 51
1.2. 基本成分方析 51
2. 中藥萃取物抗老化能力評估 51
2.1. 抗氧化成分之定量分析 51
2.2. 抗氧化活性測定 52
3. 中藥萃取物美白有效性試驗 57
3.1. 酪胺酸?活性之抑制 57
3.2. 中草藥萃取物之紫外光吸收值測定 58
4. 抗老化之細胞實驗 59
4.1對CCD-966SK細胞增生之作用 59
4.2對CCD-966SK細胞分泌膠原蛋白作用 59
5 美白之細胞實驗 60
5.1. 中藥萃取物對黑色素腫瘤細胞存活率之影響 60
5.2.1 中藥萃取物對A375細胞存活率 60
5.2.2 中藥萃取物對A375細胞生成黑色素影響 61
6. 含中藥萃取物之乳霜品質與人體試驗分析 63
6.1. 乳霜色差值 63
6.2. 對皮膚之安全性 64
6.3. 有效性測試 64
伍、結論 69
陸、參考文獻 70
附錄一、人體試驗計畫接受試驗者同意書 113
附錄二、皮膚反應的評價 115
附錄三、黑色素生成 116
附錄四、皮膚彈性指標 117
附錄五、普劑方之七白膏複方方源 118
附錄六、七白膏之七味單方 119
附錄七、角質層的結構及可能經皮吸收之途徑 120
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