關於數值模擬軟體，各國研發出之數值模擬軟體主要以當地國家海岸為主，其開發之軟體內建參數必以適合當地海岸來進行模擬。各國海岸大不相同，若以其他國家之參數套用至台灣海岸，可能導致模擬結果失真。
本研究使用西班牙整合型海岸規劃及變遷軟體SMC(coastal modeling system)，配合不同之波浪、週期、潮汐等輸入參數來模擬，以及蒐集現地歷年資料調整內建參數，再以西子灣現地量測之地形資料做模擬比對驗證。其中先以西子灣實測地形變化探討季風浪與颱風浪之特性，瞭解不同型態波浪對西子灣地形的影響。再以SMC之Mopla模組模擬西子灣海底地形變化，比較實測地形與模式模擬之結果，探討海底地形變化原因。
西子灣受西南季風浪影響，對海灘產生近岸侵蝕於外海堆積之特性。而受東北季風浪影響，海灘之特性則為波浪將海底之沙粒推至近岸或沙灘上形成平台(berm)。SMC對模擬西南季風浪之特性有較好的結果，但是模擬東北季風浪之特性則結果不佳。

About the software of numerical model, countries to develop model must be base on their main local coast. And the parameters of the software will be built to fit their local coast. But coast are different from every countries. If use the parameters to simulation in Taiwan, the result may be wrong.
The study of this paper use SMC(coastal modeling system). To match up different kind of parameters, such as wave、period、tide to simulate. Search and collect the data on the study of local area over the years. Although first to confer the change of bathymetry on Sizihwan, which influence on the wave of typhoon and monsoon. To understand the bathymetry influence on different type of waves. Then simulate the change of the sea bed by the module of SMC '' Mopla. And compare the result of simulate and the measurement, to probe into the change of bathymetry.
The influence of the waves of southwest monsoon on Sizihwan, the characteristic was erosion close-shore and accretion off-shore on the beach. The influence of the waves of northwest monsoon, the characteristic was wave induce the berm. There are best result of simulate the waves of southwest monsoon, but bad at the waves of northwest monsoon.

中文摘要 I
Abstract II
目 錄 III
圖目錄 V
表目錄 VII
附 錄 VIII
符號說明 X
第一章 緒論 1
1-1研究目的 1
1-2 前人研究 2
1-2-1 波浪場計算 2
1-2-2 近岸流場計算 3
1-2-3 海岸變遷計算 4
1-3 本文架構 6
第二章 模式介紹及理論基礎 7
2-1 模式介紹 7
2-2 模式理論基礎 13
2-1-1波浪傳輸模組(Oluca) 13
2-1-2水深平均流場模組(Copla) 15
2-1-3漂沙傳輸模組(Eros) 18
第三章 基本資料分析 21
3-1地理位置 21
3-2氣象資料 22
3-3海象資料 25
3-4底質性質 27
3-5 地形資料來源 30
3-6 西子灣海岸地形特性 31
第四章 模式驗證 39
4-1資料前置處理 39
4-2地形驗證 41
4-3參數探討 61
第五章 結論與建議 62
5-1結論 62
5-2建議 63
參考文獻 64
附錄 68

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