跳到主要內容

臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

(44.221.70.232) 您好!臺灣時間:2024/05/30 21:02
字體大小: 字級放大   字級縮小   預設字形  
回查詢結果 :::

詳目顯示

我願授權國圖
: 
twitterline
研究生:鄧秀珠
研究生(外文):HSIU-CHU TENG
論文名稱:影響防曬化粧品使用效能之研究
論文名稱(外文):Study on alternative evaluation method in vitro for the using effect of sunscreen products
指導教授:楊朝成楊朝成引用關係
指導教授(外文):CHAO-CHENG YANG
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:嘉南藥理科技大學
系所名稱:化妝品科技研究所
學門:民生學門
學類:美容學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2010
畢業學年度:98
語文別:中文
論文頁數:91
中文關鍵詞:防曬係數臨界波長粒徑
外文關鍵詞:Sun Protection FactorMinimal Erythema Dose
相關次數:
  • 被引用被引用:0
  • 點閱點閱:2754
  • 評分評分:
  • 下載下載:0
  • 收藏至我的研究室書目清單書目收藏:0
本研究主要探討影響防曬產品使用效果之因素,藉由塗抹不同量的防曬產品,利用SPF測定儀(UV1000S)進行體外試驗,探討塗抹量對SPF值的差異性,並瞭解市售商品的SPF標示值,是否能提供標示值的防曬效果;另外並於實驗室調製不同防曬劑濃度的防曬產品,在乳化過程中改變攪拌的速度,探討粒徑大小的變化,以其對於防曬產品SPF值的影響。
經隨機購買的15罐市售商品中,依FDA標準方法測試,僅有6罐產品之SPF值符合標示值;市售防曬商品經本實驗加量及減量實驗分析,塗抹增、減量與體外測試的SPF值呈現一次線性關係,而在減量75%時,所有商品的SPF值,皆低於SPF值15以下。另外從市售商品中SPF實測值與產品中添加之防曬劑種類及其添加量有關,當防曬劑總添加量少於10%時,大部分SPF之實測值小於15;若防曬劑總添加量高於20%,則可得到較佳之SPF值;且物理性防曬劑與化學性防曬劑相互混合添加,其SPF值高於單一種類之添加。
另外在自製的防曬產品中使用4種不同濃度比例的防曬劑,在乳化過程中藉以不同的攪拌速度,(200 rpm/min 、800 rpm/min、1600 rpm/min及均質機 ),經實驗結果顯示:以Kowax-32為乳化劑的B配方,以B-1配方在均質機的條件下所得乳液最小,實驗結果也發現在相同的配方下,當攪拌速度增強,能得到較小的乳液粒徑,而且隨著粒徑愈小,SPF值就愈高。
This research main discussion affects against exposes to the sun factor of the product use effect,because of smudges thecommensurability against not to expose to the sun the product, (UV1000s) carries on vitro experiment using the SPF cryoscope, the discussion smudges the quantity to the SPF value difference, and understood that market commodity SPF indication value, whether can provide the indication value against to expose to the sun the effect; Moreover and against exposes to the sun the product in the laboratory modulation different sun-screening agent density, changes the agitation in the emulsion process the speed, the discussion particle size size change, regarding against exposes to the sun the product SPF value by it the influence.

The 15 tanks were purchased in commercial products, according to FDA standard method of testing, only 6 cans of products labeled SPF values with values.The commercial sunscreen products after reduction of the experimental dosage and experimental analysis, smear increased, reduction and in vitro tests SPF values showed a linear relationship. In the reduction of 75%, all the SPF value of products, are lower than the SPF values of 15. Also from the commercial value of commodities measured SPF of sunscreen products, add categories and dosage, and when to add sunscreen less than 10% of the total, most of the measured value is less than SPF 15; If the sunscreen higher than 20% of the total added, the SPF value may be better; and physical sunscreens and chemical sunscreens to add another hybrid, the SPF values higher than a single type of add.
Another home-made sunscreen products in 4 different concentrations using the ratio of sunscreen agents, emulsifying process by different stirring speed, (200 rpm / min, 800 rpm / min, 1600 rpm / min, homogenizer). The experimental results show: the Kowax-32 as emulsifier of formula B (B-1 formula) in the homogenizer emulsion obtained under the conditions of minimum , experimental results also found that the same formula, when the stirring speed increased, the emulsion particle size can be smaller. Moreover, with the smaller particle size, SPF value to be the higher.
中文摘要 I
英文摘要 III
誌 謝 V
目 錄 VI
表目錄 IX
圖目錄 XI
縮寫名詞對照表 XIII
第一章 緒論 1
1-1 前言 1
1-2 研究動機與目的 3
第二章 文獻回顧 5
2-1紫外線的範圍與定義 5
2-2陽光對人體的影響 8
2-3防曬劑介紹 10
2-4防曬系數測定 15
2-4-1評估UVB的方法 15
2-4-2評估UVA的方法 27
2-5影響防曬產品效果之因素 31
第三章 實驗 35
3-1實驗架構 35
3-2實驗材料 36
3-3儀器設備 40
3-4實驗方法 42
3-4-1防曬產品之SPF值測定 42
3-4-2防曬商品之防水測定 44
3-4-3自製防曬產品配方 46
3-4-4防曬產品調製過程 49
3-4-5自製防曬產品膚質觸感試驗 51
第四章 結果與討論 52
4-1市售商品使用效能測試 52
4-1-1依FDA標準方法進行防曬商品SPF值 之測試 52
4-1-2塗抹加量防曬商品與防曬效果之關係 55
4-1-3塗抹減量防曬商品與防曬效果之關係 57
4-1-4防水性測試方析 62
4-2自製防曬產品分析 65
4-2-1乳化劑的選擇 65
4-2-2乳化後的粒徑 67
4-2-3乳化製品之粒徑與SPF值 70
4-2-4粒徑大小對產品膚觸的影響 80
第五章 結論 83
參考文獻 86
1. P. Francis, J. Frank, A Review of Sunscreen Safety and Efficacy, Photochemistry and Photobiology, 68(3): 243-256, 1998.
2. http://crs.cph.ntu.edu.tw,行政衛生署國民健康局,台灣癌症登記中心。
3. E. F. Bernstein, D. Brown, F. Urbach, D. Forbes, M. DelMonaco, Ultraviolet radiation activates the human elastin promoter in ransgenic mice: a novel in vivo and in vitro model of cutaneous photoaging, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 105: 269-273, 1995.
4. 李維靈,建置化學性防曬產品成分的安全性評估及流程管理體系與品質規範之架構,臺北醫學大學生物醫學材料研究所碩士論文,2007。
5. P. Autier, Sunscreen use and duration of sun exposure: A double-blind, randomized trial, Journal of the National Cancer Institute, 91: 1304-1309, 1999.
6. L. Dennis, L. Beane, M. VanBeek, Sunscreen use and the risk for melanoma: a quantitative review, Annals of Internal Medicine, 139: 966−978, 2003.
7. H. Jessica, J. Adam, J. S. Patrick, Photoaging: Mechanisms and repair, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 55:1-19, 2006.
8. 5047’s cosmetic bolg,防曬係數測試實驗,原料或技術訊息篇,2008。
9. 國際照明委員會CIE﹝International Commission on Illumination﹞。
10.馮欽賜、楊明仁,紫外線指數的分析與預報,氣象學報, 43(1) :11-26, 1999。
11.劉佳儒,地球的金鐘罩,科學發展,427,32-35,2008。
12.J.E. Cleaver, F. Cortes, D. Karentz, L. Lutze, W.F. Morgan, The relative importance of cyclobutane and (6-4) pyrimidine-pyrimidone dimer photoproducts in human cells:evidence from a xeroderma pigmentosum revertant, Photochemical&Photobiological Sciences, 48:41-49, 1988.
13.www.lhup.edu/jwhitlin/Chem415/Lecture/Notes/Ch25/chapter25notes.htm, Chapter 25- DNA Metabolism.
14.http://content.edu.tw/senior/chemistry/tp_sc/main.htm,臭氧專題,國立臺北教育大學製作,教育部指導。
15.J. Varani, D. Spearman, P. Perone, S.E. Fligiel, S.C. Datta, Inhibition of type I procollagen synthesisby damaged collagen in photoaged skin and by collagenase-degraded collagen in vitro, 158: 931-942, 2001.
16.S. Seite, A. Colige, P. Piquemal-Vivenot, A full-UV spectrum
absorbing daily use cream protects human skin against biological
changes occurring in photoaging, Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed, 16: 147-55, 2000.
17.P.K. Vayalil, A .Mittal, Y. Hara, Green tea polyphenols prevent
ultraviolet light-induced oxidative damage and matrix metalloproteinases expression in mouse skin, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 122:1480-1487, 2004.
18.K.Abeyama, W. Eng, J.V. A.A . Jester, D. Edelbaum, C.J. Cockerell
, A role for NF-kB-dependent gene transactivation in sunburn,The Journal Of Clinucal Investigation , 105: 1751-1759, 2000.
19.L.C. Huang, K.C. Clarkin, G.M. Wahl, Sensitivity and selectivity of the DNA damage sensor responsible for activating p53-dependent G1 arrest, The Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 93:4827-4832, 1996.
20.Seiji Kondo, Kowichi Jimbow, Dose-Dependent Induction of IL-12 But Not IL-10 From Human Keratinocytes After Exposure to Ultraviolet Light A, Physiol, 177: 493–498, 1998.
21.黃琬玲,烏骨雞黑色素應用於防曬劑之研究,國立中興大學畜產學系碩士論文,2004。
22.S.E. Fligiel,J. Varani,S.C. Datta,S. Kang,G.J. Fisher,.J. Voorhees, Collagen degradation in aged/photodamaged skin in vivo and after exposure to matrix metalloproteinase-1 in vitro, 120: 842-848, 2003.
23.C. Kielbassa, L. Roza , B. Epe, Wavelength dependence of oxidative DNA damage indrced by UV and visible light, Carcinogenesis 18: 811-816, 1997.
24.K. June Robinson, S. Darrell Rigel, A. Rex Amonette, Summertime sun protection used by adults for their children, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 42: 746-753, 2000.
25.蔡季真,油脂與乳化劑型對防曬產品的SPF值之影響 ,靜宜大學應用化學研究所碩士論文,2005。
26.http://www.dsm.com/en_US/html/dnp/home_dnp.htm,(DSM) Nutritional Products Company
27.林礽麒,化粧品潛藏環境荷爾蒙作用,消費者報導, 268: 25-26, 2003。
28.蔡呈芳,認識防曬係數SPF,台大醫院皮膚科主治醫師。
29.柳中明,紫外線,發現月刊,35期,1999。
30.蔡祯輝,劉銘龍,柳中明,抗紫外線產品測試檢測標準比較分
析,1998年紫外線研討會論文集,115-112頁, 1998。
31.H. Bendova, J. Akrman, A. Krejci, In vitro approaches to evaluation of Sun Protection Factor, Toxicology in vitro, 21: 1268-1275, 2007.
32.Art Springsteen, Ramona Yurek, Michelle Frazier, F. Kevin, In vitro measurement of sun protection factor of sunscreens by diffuse transmittance, 380 : 155-164, 1999,.
33.B.L. Diffey, and J. Robson, A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 40, 127-133, 1989.
34.蘇恒彰,防曬成份在乳化化粧品之效能探討,嘉南藥理科技大學化粧品科技研究所碩士論文,2006。
35.Food and Drug Administration, Health and Human Services.Sunscreen drug products for over-the-counter human use;final monograph. Final rule, 64: 27666-27693, 1999.
36.B.L. Diffey, R. Paul Tanner, A method for broad spectrum classification of Sunscreens, J.Cosmetic Sci, 16: 47-52, 1994.
37.張慧柔、陳榮秀,化粧品防曬係數之測定-天竺叔鼠模式,嘉南學報,25,209-216頁, 1999。
38.防曬劑效能知多少,聯合報醫療版,93-7-26。
39.P. Autier, J.F. Doré, S. Négrier, D. Liénard, R. Panizzon, F.J. Lejeune, D. Guggisberg, A.M.M. Eggermont, Sunscreen use and duration of sun exposure: a double-blind, randomized trial, Journal of the National Cancer Institute, 91: 1304-1309, 1999.
40.L.R. Gaspar, P.M.B.G. Maia Campos, Rheological behavior and the SPF ofsunscreens, International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 250:.35-44, 2003.
41.Y. Robert Lochhead, Emulsions, Cosmetics&Toiletries﹐109,93-94﹐1993.
42.洪偉章、陳榮秀,化妝品科技槪論,二版,台灣台北:高立圖書有限公司,pp.18-23, 2002。
43.J. Schulz, H. Hohenberg, F. Pflücker, E. Gärtner, T. Will, S. Pfeiffer, R. Wepf, V. Wendel, H. Gers-Barlag and K. -P. Wittern, Distribution of sunscreens on skin, Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews, 54(1): 157-163, 2002.
44.夏如鶯,化粧品乳化劑之乳化效力之套探討,嘉南藥理科技大學化粧品科技研究所碩士論文,2006。
45.李佳晉、呂一鑫、林恩仕,乳化反應中攪拌形式及強度對乳液粒徑大小之影響, 美容科技學刊,6(1): 95-106,2009。
46.http://www.emfuel.com/big5/produce/shearing.htm《乳化燃料網》2001.11.30。
QRCODE
 
 
 
 
 
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               
第一頁 上一頁 下一頁 最後一頁 top