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研究生:阮氏雪梅
研究生(外文):Thi Tuyet-Mai Nguyen
論文名稱:應用研究越南文化之“四片襟服”結合“東湖圖”與“東山銅鼓”的圖案,設計一系列”傳奇之愛”的現代婚嫁禮服
論文名稱(外文):"The Legendary Love" – A collection of western style wedding dress inspired with "Four-panel dress" style and patterns from “DongHo painting and DongSon drum” Vietnamese culture
指導教授:邱鳳梓邱鳳梓引用關係
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:樹德科技大學
系所名稱:應用設計研究所
學門:設計學門
學類:綜合設計學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2011
畢業學年度:99
語文別:英文
論文頁數:109
中文關鍵詞:四片襟服兜襟背心東山銅鼓東湖圖婚嫁禮服
外文關鍵詞:Four-panel dressAoYemDongSon drumDongHo paintingWedding dress.
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越南傳統文化的服飾圖紋探討結合西方現代潮流相的時尚設計是為本系列名為“傳奇之愛” 的婚嫁禮服之特色,此 研究方向如下進行:
1:款式設計:探討以越南北方女孩傳統婚服之“四片襟服”為設計發展基礎。
2:圖案設計:採取越南古代兩大傳統圖案為代表,一為表現出越南不屈不撓民族精神的“東山銅鼓”,二為表現出越南村民簡樸勤勞,熱愛生活精神的“東湖圖”。兩種圖案的交加更顯出越南傳統婦女的優美,以及始終不屈的精神。
3:刺繡技法與布料材質的選用:選擇以越南傳統手工刺繡圖案的技法,並且精選越南民間傳統的禮服布料製作系列服飾。
4: 材料顏色選用:越南婚禮傳統顏色中主要的紅色和黃色.;而圖案繡線顏色的選用,主要是根據原圖的配色而選用。
5:完成一系列融合越南與西式風格,名為”傳奇之愛”的現代婚嫁禮服設計與製作。


he integration between the exquisiteness of traditional patterns and the styles of traditional cultural costumes; combining with the modern look of western wedding dress will give my collection a niche, praising Vietnamese culture and modern aspects with the introduction of “The Legendary Love” to bring the excellence of Vietnamese culture to the world. Hence, my research has been formulated as the following:
(1) Ideas of styles: choosing the four-panel dress with ''AoYem'' is the traditional wedding dress costume of north Vietnamese women until the 20th century. (2) Ideas of embroidery patterns (main point in thesis), choosing traditional Vietnamese culture patterns: Patterns and scripts from DongSon drums (The essences of Vietnamese culture and its courageousness) and DongHo paintings (portraying the simple, friendly way of life of Vietnamese peoples). This combination accentuates the traditional beauty, the feminine, the attraction and loyalty of Vietnamese women. (3) Method of embroidery: Choosing the traditional hand embroidery in Vietnam. Fabric materials: the main fabrics used are the traditional fabrics available in Vietnam. (4) Key colors of fabric: choosing red and yellow (two traditional wedding colors in Vietnam). Colors design of embroidery patterns: use the colors on the original paintings or patterns. (5) Design and make the wedding dress collection which is named "The Legendary Love".


Table of Contents
摘要 i
ABSTRACT ii
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS iii
TABLE OF CONTENTS iv
LIST OF FIGURES viii
CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1
1.1. Motivation 1
1.2. Research Objectives and Questions 3
1.3. Research Scope and Limitations 4
1.4. Definition of terms 5

CHAPTER 2 LITERATURE REVIEWS 7
2.1. Brief introduction about history 8
2.1.1. Brief introduction about history of four-panel dress and AoYem 8
2.1.2. Brief introduction of Vietnam’s historical Dong Son bronze drums 9
2.1.3. Brief introduction about history of Dong Ho painting or Vietnamese woodblock prints 10
2.1.4. History of hand embroidery in Vietnam 10
2.2. The significance of Dong Ho paintings and Dong Son drums 11
2.2.1 The significance of Dong Ho paintings 11
2.2.2 The significance of Dong Son bronze drum 16
2.3. The application of Vietnamese culture in fashion 19
2.3.1. The application of four-panel style and Ao Yem
in fashion 19
2.3.2. The applications of pictures from Dong Son bronze
drum in fashion 21
2.3.3. The applications of pictures from Dong Ho painting
In fashion 22

CHAPTER 3 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 25
3.1. Influenced by the styles designing and embroidery
patterns of other designers 25
3.1.1 The concepts of applying embroidery and beadwork
in Oriental styles 25
3.1.2. The concepts of applying embroidery and beadwork
in Western styles 27
3.1.3. Ways to choose main colors and fabric 30
3.2. The process and technique in traditional hand
embroidery 30
3.2.1. Transferring image onto fabric using the technique
of needle holes 30
3.2.2. Embroidery techniques 31
3.3. Research process 34
3.3.1. The researching steps 34
3.3.2. The timeline for research process 37
3.3.3. The researching flow chart 38

CHAPTER 4 RESEARCH ANALYSIS AND RESULTS 39
4.1. Style sketches 40
4.1.1. Style 1 40
4.1.2. Style 2 41
4.1.3. Style 3 42
4.1.4. Style 4 43
4.1.5. Style 5 44
4.2. Analysis of hand embroidery patterns on
each styles 45
4.2.1. Embroidery patterns on style 1 45
4.2.2. Embroidery patterns on style 2 47
4.2.3. Embroidery patterns on style 3 49
4.2.4. Embroidery patterns on style 4 50
4.2.5. Embroidery patterns on style 5 51
4.3. Drawing the flat styles 53
4.3.1. Flat style 1 53
4.3.2. Flat style 2 55
4.3.3. Flat style 3 56
4.3.4. Flat style 4 57
4.3.5. Flat style 5 58
4.4. Color embroidery pattern design 59
4.4.1. Color pattern placement of style 1 59
4.4.2. Color pattern placement of style 2 61
4.4.3. Color pattern placement of style 3 62
4.4.4. Color pattern placement of style 4 63
4.4.5. Color pattern placement of style 5 64
4.5. Pattern makings (true scale) 65
4.5.1. Style 1 66
4.5.2. Style 2 71
4.5.3. Style 3 73
4.5.4. Style 4 75
4.5.5. Style 5 78
4.6. Embroidery blocks 84
4.6.1. Flat pattern 1 84
4.6.2. Flat pattern 2 87
4.6.3. Flat pattern 3 88
4.6.4. Flat pattern 4 89
4.6.5. Flat pattern 5 90
4.7. Final designs presented by model 91
4.7.1. Design 1 91
4.7.2. Design 2 93
4.7.3. Design 3 95
4.7.4. Design 4 96
4.7.5. Design 5 97
4.8. Fashion show and exhibition in Shu-Te University 98

CHAPTER 5 GENERAL CONCLUSION AND IMPLICATION 102
5.1. General conclusion 102
5.1.1. Assess of the effectiveness of the thesis’s achievement
toward the goal 102
5.1.2. The assessment of limiting factors while completing
the thesis 104
5.2. Application and further development of the thesis 105
REFERENCE 106


REFERENCES
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