臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

本研究著重在中草藥植物萃取液之防曬成份之探討與應用以應用在化粧品配方之評估，本研究選擇20種於文獻記載指出具防曬美白及抗氧化作用之中草藥，進行紫外光吸收測試，並從中篩選出松樹皮、黃芩、薑黃水萃液均具有吸收紫外光區光線之能力，然而其中又以松樹皮水萃取物吸收光譜能力表現最佳。
加入不同濃度之松樹皮萃取液進行細胞存活率(MTT)及細胞毒性試驗(LDH)，發現人類表皮細胞(HS-68) 在濃度3%之松樹皮萃取液中細胞存活率最高且細胞毒性低，將此一濃度之樣品加入乳液中進行防曬係數測試，其防曬係數可達SPF8.81。
將實驗結果實際運用在化妝品配方中，評估體外試驗結果與產品實際運用效果之差異性，結果顯示松樹皮萃取液具有作為化妝品防曬劑的潛力。

This research investigates herb extracts as a potential sun screen ingredient in cosmetics. As cited in this experiment twenty herbs were tested for their sun protection and whitening factor as well as their anti-oxidizing properties.
Pine bark, scutellaria, and turmeric extract showed viable results in ultraviolet ray absorption, in particular pine bark extract showed the most significant viability in spectrum absorption spectroscopy (spectrophotometer or spectrometer).
By testing of MTT assay kit (MTT) and Cytotoxic Assay (LDH) in different concentrations of the pine bark extract, it was found that the cells in the epidermis (HS-68) had the highest survival rate and lowest toxicity levels in 3% concentration pine bark extract. Adding the same concentration of the extract into emulsion to test out its sun protection factor consequently yielded a SPF 8.81.
The experimentation resulted in a practical application of the extract in the cosmetic formula. Assessment of in vitro tests revealed a differentiation in outcome, the results do show the pine bark extract can be used as cosmetic sunscreen.

中文摘要.....................................................................2
英文摘要.....................................................................3
目錄.........................................................................4
圖目錄.......................................................................8
表目錄.......................................................................10
第一章、緒論
1.1 研究動機.................................................................11
1.2 研究目的.................................................................11
第二章、研究背景
2.1 紫外線與皮膚的關係
2.1.1紫外線之介紹............................................................13
2.1.2紫外線對皮膚的傷害.......................................................18
2.1.3長期紫外線對皮膚的傷害...................................................19
2.1.4光老化現象等級..........................................................20
2.1.5皮膚組織的改變..........................................................22
2.2 皮膚的生理構造
2.2.1 皮膚的構造...........................................................23
2.2.2 皮膚的層次..........................................................................23
2.2.3 皮膚的生理功能........................................................24
2.2.4 皮膚的分類...........................................................27
2.3 防曬的定義
2.3.1 防曬能力的評估方法....................................................28
2.3.2 防曬劑的種類.........................................................31
2.3.3紫外線吸收劑具環境荷爾蒙作用............................................33
2.3.4紫外線吸收劑能引起過敏與突變............................................33
第三章、實驗大綱
3.1實驗藥品..................................................................37
3.2實驗儀器..................................................................39
3.3實驗步驟..................................................................40
3.3.1 稀乙醇抽提...........................................................40
3.3.2紫外光吸光能力(UV/Vis光譜分析).........................................41
3.3.3細胞毒性試驗(Cytotoxic Assay).........................................42
3.3.4細胞存活率試驗(MTT assay kit).........................................43
3.3.5重金屬含量試驗........................................................44
3.3.6化粧品中微生物檢驗.....................................................47
3.3.7防曬係數分析..........................................................47
第四章、結果與討論
4.1吸光能力測試(UV/Vis光譜分析)...............................................49
4.2細胞毒性(LDH)試驗及細胞存活率(MTT).........................................65
4.3重金屬含量檢測............................................................70
4.4化粧品中微生物檢測.........................................................71
4.5防曬係數分析..............................................................72

第五章、結論.................................................................73
第六章、參考資料..............................................................75

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