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研究生:黃鈴貴
研究生(外文):Ling-Kuei Huang
論文名稱:利用反應曲面法研究化妝水中維他命C醣苷之安定性
論文名稱(外文):Stability studies of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside in cosmetic lotion using response surface methodology
指導教授:黃文盈
指導教授(外文):Wen-Ying Huang
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:弘光科技大學
系所名稱:化妝品科技研究所
學門:民生學門
學類:美容學類
論文種類:學術論文
畢業學年度:101
語文別:中文
論文頁數:97
中文關鍵詞:維他命C葡萄醣苷化妝水逆相高效能液相層析法反應曲面法抗氧化活性
外文關鍵詞:ascorbic acid 2-glucosidecosmetic lotionRP-HPLCresponse surface methodology (RSM)antioxidative activity
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中文摘要

維他命C葡萄醣苷 (ascorbic acid 2-glucoside;AA-2G) 已經被廣泛使用於乳霜及化妝水類的化妝產品中。由於溫度及pH的改變會造成AA-2G的裂解,因此如何評估化妝產品中AA-2G的安定性,是值得研究的課題。本實驗化妝品配方含5% AA-2G,這個實驗的設計是基於反應曲面法 (response surface methodology;RSM),兩個獨立因子是溫度及pH值。利用逆相高效能液相層析法 (RP-HPLC) 測定AA-2G的含量求得反應值。經迴歸model的分析,預測保持AA-2G最佳安定性的溫度及pH值,分別是55.3 °C和pH 6.4。再經HPLC驗證,反應值跟迴歸model的預估值很接近,準確度高,所以RSM可作為評估化妝品安定性的工具。AA-2G的抗氧化活性,表現在DPPH、ABTS自由基的清除能力、金屬螯合活性及還原力。結果顯示AA-2G是一種具備活性的維他命C衍生物,用於製備化妝產品非常適合。




關鍵詞:維他命C葡萄醣苷; 化妝水; 逆相高效能液相層析法;
反應曲面法; 抗氧化活性

Abstract

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA-2G) has been widely used in cream and lotion types of cosmetic products. The temperature change and pH variation resulted in the degradation of AA-2G. Thus, an effective evaluation method was required to study the stability of AA-2G in cosmetics. The cosmetic formulation contained 5% AA-2G. The experimental design was based on the response surface methodology (RSM). The two independent factors were temperature and pH. The response values were the AA-2G contents of cosmetics analyzed by using the reserve phase high performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC). Based on the regression models, the optimal condition that achieved the best stability of AA-2G was occurred at 55.3 °C and pH 6.4. After running the variation test, the predicted value was very close to the responsed value. Therefore, RSM was a good tool for evaluating the ingredient stability of cosmetics. In addition, the antioxidative activities of AA-2G including DPPH and ABTS free radical scavenging activities, metal chelating activity, and reducing ability were also determined. According the antioxidative activity study results, AA-2G was a good active ingredient to be used in cosmetic products.



Keywords: ascorbic acid 2-glucoside; cosmetic lotion;
RP-HPLC; response surface methodology (RSM); antioxidative activity

目 錄

中文摘要 I
Abstract II
目 錄 III
表目錄 VI
圖目錄 VIII
第壹章、緒論 1
ㄧ、前言 1
二、研究動機與目的 2
三、實驗架構 2
第貳章、文獻整理 4
ㄧ、Vit C 的簡介 4
二、AA-2G的簡介 5
三、黑色素與美白的簡介 6
(一)、皮膚 6
(二)、黑色素(melanin)與皮膚的關係 9
(三)、美白成分的作用機轉 15
(四)、衛生署核准美白成分 19
四、自由基與抗氧化 21
(一)、自由基 21
(二)、自由基對生物體的影響 23
(三)、抗氧化的機制 23
五、化妝品的運用 25
六、化妝品的安定性 34
七、HPLC的原理與功用 34
八、RSM 的簡介與原理 38

第参章、材料與方法 39
ㄧ、實驗材料 39
(ㄧ)、實驗儀器設備 39
(二)、藥品與試劑 39
二、實驗方法 42
(ㄧ)、HPLC分析方法與條件之建立 42
1、分析條件的選擇 42
2、最佳分析條件 56
(二)、AA-2G化妝水的製備 57
(三)、AA-2G化妝水安定性研究 58
(四)、AA-2G化妝水HPLC的分析 59
(五)、RSM的設計 59
(六)、5% AA-2G化妝水最佳安定性 (pH 6.4 55.3 ℃) 的驗證 60
(七)、最佳安定性5% AA-2G化妝水的製備 61
(八)、最佳安定性5% AA-2G化妝水安定性研究 61
(九)、5% AA-2G化妝水 (pH 6.4 55.3 ℃) HPLC的分析 62
(十)、最佳安定性5% AA-2G化妝水抗氧化能力的分析 62
(十一)、STATISTICAR數據統計分析方法 67
第肆章、結果 68
一、HPLC 的分析 68
二、RSM的評估結果 71
三、最佳的儲存溫度和pH值 74
四、5% AA-2G化妝水 (pH 6.4、55.3 ℃ 10 hrs) HPLC分析 75
五、最佳安定性5% AA-2G化妝水DPPH自由基清除能力測定 76
六、最佳安定性5% AA-2G化妝水ABTS自由基清除能力測定 77
七、最佳安定性5% AA-2G化妝水螯合金屬離子能力測定 78
八、最佳安定性5% AA-2G化妝水還原能力測定 79

第伍章、討論 80
一、HPLC的分析 80
二、RSM的驗證 81
三、最佳安定性5% AA-2G化妝水抗氧化能力測定 82
第陸章、結論 88
第柒章、參考文獻 89


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