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研究生:寗嘉君
研究生(外文):Chia-Chun Ning
論文名稱:心花圍柱蘭蘭花萃取物之功能性評估
論文名稱(外文):Efficacy Evaluation of Extract from Encyclia cordigera Flower.
指導教授:戴嘉慧
指導教授(外文):Chia-Hui Tai
口試委員:許清雲戴嘉慧陳崇裕
口試委員(外文):Ching-Yun HsuChia-Hui TaiChon-Yu Chen
口試日期:2015-07-10
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:正修科技大學
系所名稱:化妝品與時尚彩妝研究所
學門:民生學門
學類:美容學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2015
畢業學年度:103
語文別:中文
論文頁數:108
中文關鍵詞:心花圍柱蘭抗氧化總酚總類黃酮皮膚有效性評估
外文關鍵詞:Encyclia cordigeraantioxidantphenolsflavonoidsefficacy evaluation of skin
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摘要
  本研究的目的是探討心花圍柱蘭(Encyclia cordigera)蘭花萃取物之功能性評估,將心花圍柱蘭花分為花萼、花瓣、花蕊三個部位,以水為溶劑分別在50℃、70℃、90℃三種不同溫度條件下萃取5小時。希望籍由科學的實驗方法來評估心花圍柱蘭蘭花萃取在皮膚上的功效,期望開發出具有多方面的美容效果之植物萃取化妝品。
本實驗研究分為三個部分,第一部分利用總酚含量測定、總類黃酮含量測定和醣類測定探討有效性成分,第二部份利用清除DPPH自由基能力及普魯士藍還原能力探討抗氧化功能,第三部分利用抑制酪胺酸酶活性測定探討美白功能。
在花萼、花瓣、花蕊三個部位於不同温度條件下,清除自由基能力為90℃花萼萃取物IC50 29.38 ± 0.57μg/mL 最佳;普魯士藍還原能力為90℃花萼萃取為EC50 50.99 ± 0.95 mg/g 最佳;總酚含量測定90℃花萼萃取物含量為192.00 ± 1.28 mg/g 最佳;總類黃酮含量測定為90℃花萼萃取物含量為70.71 ± 0.45 mg/g 最佳;總醣含量測定為90℃花蕊萃取物含量為238.86 ± 0.88 mg/g 最佳;還原醣含量為90℃花萼水萃取物含量為91.81±1.9 mg/g 最佳。
在皮膚實驗的功能性試驗方面,以抗氧化能力較好的90℃花萼萃取物進行乳液的製作與安全性探討及皮膚功能性試驗,使用心花圍柱蘭蘭花萃取乳液對皮膚有顯著增加保濕之效果,而對皮膚之彈性皆有隨使用時間增加而有皮膚彈性增加之現象,在皮膚美白效果方面,黑色素指標也隨著使用週數增加而有降低,使用 DS Ⅲ數位拍照比對系統測定全臉皮膚色差指數變化使用週數增加色差指數有明顯提升。 
  整體而言,將實驗結果實際應用在化妝品,心花圍柱蘭蘭花萃取乳液具有皮膚保濕、增加彈性度、美白等功效,故未來可開發添加在化妝品中之原料,值得再深入研究探討。

關鍵字:心花圍柱蘭、抗氧化、總酚、總類黃酮、皮膚有效性評估

Abstract
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effective function of extraction of Encyclia cordigera. Three parts of Encyclia cordigera including sepals, petal and column have been extracted by using water as e solvent at 50℃, 70℃ and 90℃ for five hours, respectively. The effective functions of Encyclia cordigera for skin were evaluated and hopefully plant extraction would be used for anti-aging cosmetics.
Experiments were carried out in three parts. First of all, total phenols, total flavonoids and total saccharide content were measured. secondly, scavenging of the free radical DPPH and Prussian blue were used to reduce the capability of reduction and anti-oxidation capability were determined. Lastly, tyrosinase inhibition were used assays to determine skin whitening function.
The experimental results that 90℃extract for free was the best among all.
Among sepals, petal and column extracts with different temperatures, free radical scavenging of sepal extract with at 90℃ IC50 of 29.38 ± 0.57 μg/ml. Reduction of Prussian blue of sepal extract with at 90℃ EC50 of 50.99 ± 0.95 μg/mL. Total phenols content and total flavonoids content of sepal extract at 90℃ of at 90℃ are 192.00 ± 1.28 mg/g and 70.71 ± 0.45 mg/g respectively. Total saccharide content and reducing saccharide content of column extract were at 238.86 ± 0.88mg/g and 91.81 ± 1.9 mg/g,respectively.
In skin test, the effective function, according to the better oxidation at 90℃for sepals was taken from the extraction of sepals 2 mg/mL, and 3% through the procedures of emulsion safety development as well as skin test, this emulsion will not cause the allergy and redness swelling skin.
By using Encyclia cordigera extraction emulsion may increase the moisturizing and skin-elasticity as well as skin whitening by lowering down the melanin. Comparatively, using of DS III digital camera can reveal the color difference index increase in several weeks.
In summary, addition of Encyclia cordigera extracts in the ingredient of cosmetics can improve the functions of moisturizing, skin-elasticity increasing and beauty whitening. For future development, addition of Encyclia cordigera extract to cosmetic products could be worth of investigation.
Key word:Encyclia cordigera、antioxidant、phenols、flavonoids、efficacy evaluation of skin.
目錄
誌謝 i
摘要 iii
目錄 viii
圖目錄 xi
表目錄 xv
第一章 緒論 1
1-1 前言 1
1-2 研究動機與目的 2
第二章 文獻回顧 4
2-1 蘭花介紹 4
2-1-1 蘭花介紹 4
2-1-2 心花圍柱蘭介紹 10
2-2 皮膚構造 13
2-2-1 皮膚的基礎結構 13
2-2-2 老化探討 18
2-3 自由基與活性氧 23
2-3-1 自由基與活性氧介紹 25
2-3-2 自由基與活性氧對人體的傷害 26
2-3-3 人體的抗氧化防禦機制 28
2-4 總酚與類黃酮類化合物 33
2-4-1 總酚化合物 33
2-4-2 黃酮類化合物種類及介紹 34
2-5 黑色素介紹 38
2-5-1 酪胺酸酶 38
2-5-2 膚色與黑色素之關係 39
2-5-3黑色素 40
2-5-4 黑色素生成途徑 41
2-5-5 黑色素抑制作用 43
第三章 實驗原理 44
3-1 實驗架構 44
3-2 研究材料與方法 45
3-2-1 藥品及儀器 45
3-2-2 研究材料來源 48
3-2-3 萃取物製備方法 48
3-2-4 研究萃取方法 48
3-2-5 萃取率計算 49
3-2-6 總酚含量測定 49
3-2-7 總類黃酮含量測定 50
3-2-8 DPPH清除自由基 51
3-2-9 普魯士藍還原力測定 51
3-2-10 總醣含量測定 52
3-2-11 還原醣含量測定 53
3-2-12 抑制酪胺酸酶活性 54
3-2-13 乳液製備 55
3-2-14 皮膚敏感性試驗 57
3-2-15 受試者條件與樣品有效性評估的設計 58
3-2-16 皮膚保濕力功能性評估 59
3-2-17 皮膚彈力功能性評估 59
3-2-18 皮膚色素沉著功能性評估 60
第四章 結果 63
4-1 萃取物萃取率 63
4-2  總酚含量測定 64
4-3  總類黃酮含量測定 66
4-4  清除DPPH自由基測定 68
4-5  普魯士藍還原力測定 71
4-6  總醣含量測定 73
4-7  還原醣含量測定 75
4-8  抑制酪胺酸酶活性 77
4-9 人體皮膚功能性評估 79
4-9-1 皮膚敏感性測定 80
4-9-2 皮膚有效性評估 81
第五章 討論 91
參考文獻 97
附錄 106

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