臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

衝浪場域的波浪狀況是進行衝浪活動的最重要條件，但至今國內尚未有政府及其相關單位就此需求提供必要的整合資訊。臺灣東北角海域是國內重要的衝浪場域，本研究以該海域內著名的衝浪場地─蜜月灣為例，探討活動所需波浪資訊因來源不同所呈現的差異性，以及在不同季節與颱風來臨前可能呈現的衝浪波特性，以做為未來建構衝浪安全資訊網的參考。本研究的波浪資訊來源主要是衝浪業者的目視觀測資料、海氣象資料浮標的量測資料、及中央氣象局之三天漁業氣象預報和藍色公路氣象預報資料。
研究結果顯示，衝浪業者的目視觀測資料與浮標量測值間存有波高上的觀測差異：在波高較小，週期較短時，目視觀測的波高資料通常高於浮標量測值；但在秋冬兩季波高大於等於175公分，週期大於等於5.5秒時，目視觀測本身的不準確性會增加，且隨著波高或週期的增加，目視觀測的波高資料會低於浮標量測值，此時應以浮標資料為主要的參考依據。在氣象預報部分，中央氣象局三天漁業氣象預報均和衝浪業者目視觀測與浮標量測的波高值差異較大，而中央氣象局藍色公路氣象預報資料與兩者的差異則較小，且其與目視觀測資料差異的統計結果也和浮標量測與目視觀測資料差異的統計結果相似，故除了浮標量測資料外，中央氣象局藍色公路氣象預報資料也可當作衝浪活動的參考依據。
研究也顯示：蜜月灣四季均可進行衝浪活動，此區之波浪型態多為溢出型碎波，且衝浪波條件會因季節而不同，因此適合不同技巧程度的衝浪客參與衝浪活動。

Waves are the most important aspect for any surfing location; however, Taiwan's government and relevant authorities have yet to provide the necessary integrated information regarding waves for surfing. Taiwan's northeast coast is an important surfing location. This study focuses on Honeymoon Bay, a well-known surfing location in this region, as well as investigates a variety of surfing information sources and compares their differences. Possible wave characteristics due to seasonal changes and approaching typhoons are also discussed to serve as a reference for a future surfing safety information network. The sources of wave information in this study were mainly visual observation data collected by a surf shop, measurements taken by a metoceandata buoy, and the 3-day fishery and blue highway weather forecasts from the Central Weather Bureau (CWB).
Results indicated an observed differential between the surf shop’ visual observations and the wave heights measured by buoys. When the wave height was smaller and the wave period was shorter, the wave heights recorded from visual observations were often greater than the buoy measurements. However, when the wave height was ≥175cm and the wave period was ≥5.5s during autumn and winter, the accuracy of visual observations decreased. Also, as the wave height and period increased, the wave heights from visual observations were lower than that from buoys. As such, buoy data should be used as the primary reference. The largest disparity in the wave heights was seen with the CWB's 3-day fishery forecast in comparison with the visual observations and buoy data. The difference between the CWB's blue highway forecasts and the visual observations and buoy data was less pronounced, and the statistical results from the difference between blue highway data and visual observations was similar to those from the difference between visual observations and buoy data. Therefore, in addition to the buoy measurements, the CWB's blue highway forecast data can also be used as a reference for surfing activity.
This study also found that surfing is an acceptable activity at Honeymoon Bay during all seasons as waves in this area are mostly spilling breakers. Therefore, this location is suitable for surfers of all skill levels.

目 錄
摘 要 i
目 錄 vi
表目錄 ix
圖目錄 x
第一章 緒論 1
1-1 研究背景與動機 1
1-2 研究目的 3
1-3 研究範圍與限制 3
1-4 本文結構 4
第二章 文獻探討 6
2-1 衝浪的起源與發展 6
2-1-1 衝浪的起源 6
2-1-2 衝浪的發展 7
2-2 臺灣衝浪活動的發展歷程與現況 9
2-2-1發展歷程 9
2-2-2發展現況 11
2-3 衝浪機制、裝備、與形式 14
2-3-1 衝浪機制 14
2-3-2衝浪裝備 15
2-3-3 衝浪形式 17
2-4 衝浪場域管理 19
2-4-1 衝浪場域特性 19
2-4-2 各國對衝浪區的保護 20
2-4-3人工衝浪礁 25
2-5 衝浪波觀測 30
2-5-1 衝浪波參數 30
2-5-2目視方式觀測波浪高度 33
第三章 衝浪海域的波浪資料分析與比較 38
3-1 資料來源 38
3-1-1 龜山島海氣象浮標 39
3-1-2 衝浪業者的目視觀測 41
3-1-3 中央氣象局氣象預報 44
3-2 宜蘭大溪海氣象特性 47
3-3 波浪資料分析與比較 50
3-3-1 各季波高之目視觀測與浮標實測資料比較 50
3-3-2 波高之預報與目視觀測及浮標實測之比較 59
3-4 颱風警報前之波高比較 68
第四章 衝浪波型態分析與等級分類 74
4-1 衝浪波型態分析 74
4-1-1 碎波指標 74
4-1-2 碎波型態 76
4-1-3 衝浪區波浪與海底地形資料 80
4-1-4 蜜月灣的衝浪波型態 84
4-2 衝浪波等級分類 89
4-2-1 衝浪技術分類 89
4-2-2蜜月灣衝浪波依季節等級分類 90
第五章 結論與建議 96
5-1 結論 96
5-2 建議 97
參考文獻 99

一、英文部分
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二、中文部分
中央氣象局（2014）。一百零二年度資料浮標維護與資訊管理作業報告，交通部。
中央氣象局（2011）。九十九年度資料浮標維護與資訊管理作業報告，交通部。
北海岸及觀音山國家風景管理處（2005）。北觀管字第0943000154 號公告，10 月11 日。
李國盛（2011）。與浪爭鋒－－衝浪天堂，台灣光華雜誌，(10），頁70。
交通部觀光局（2014）。「水域遊憩活動管理辦法」，交通部。
行政院體育委員（2002）。海洋運動發展計畫，臺北市。
呂惠富（2008）。以分析層級程序法對臺灣衝浪場地的評估與選擇，體育學報，41(3)，頁81-94。
李昱叡（2005）。臺灣海洋運動政策發展現況，大專體育， (81)，1-7。
宜蘭縣政府（2007）。府旅觀字第0960123388 號公告，9 月20 日。
東北角海岸國家風景區管理處（2007）。觀東管字第0960300430 號第二次修正公告，8 月17 日。
林桓（2008）。水域遊憩活動發展現況調查及管理辦法修正研究，交通部觀光局。
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教育部體育司（2003）。推動學生水域運動方案，臺北市。
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莊秀婉（2006）。臺灣北海岸衝浪參與者休閒體驗與滿意度之調查研究，未出版碩士論文，國立臺灣師範大學，臺北市。
莊慶達、胡興華、邱文彥、高松根、何立德及碧菡（2008）。海洋觀光休閒之理論與應用，五南圖書，臺北巿。
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三、網站部分
Google地圖網站： http://www.cwb.gov.tw/maps，2014年
KS衝浪店網站： http://ks-surfshop.blogspot.tw/
中央氣象局全球資訊網： http://www.cwb.gov.tw，2014年。
中華民國滑浪協會網站： http://www.sf.org.tw，2014年。
中華民國衝浪運動協會網站： http:// www.ctsasurf.org.tw，2014年
世界衝浪保護區 (World Surfing Reserve) 網站：
http://www.worldsurfingreserves.org，2014年。
台灣風箏衝浪推廣中心(Taiwan Kiteboarding Center, TKC)網站：http://www.kiteboarding.com.tw，2014年。
台灣海洋休閒運動發展協會網站： http://www.torsa.tw，2014年。
夏威夷觀光局(官方旅遊網)1`1 http://www.gohawaii.com，2014年。
偷泥衝浪教室網站： http://www.surf-tw.com，2014年。
國家海洋科學研究中心海洋資料庫：
http://www.odb.ntu.edu.tw/wordpress，2005年
強尼玫瑰衝浪學校網站： http://www.jrsurf.com，2014年。
極限運動網站： http://extreme.com，2014年。
臺灣蜘蛛衝浪俱樂部網站： http://www.spidersurfing.com，2014年。
衝浪者教育基金會網站：http://www.beachapedia.org，2014年。
澳洲旅遊局網站： http:// www.australia.com，2014年。