臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

摘要

此項研究為調查45至65歲更年期婦女腰腹部肥胖問題，筆者根據在啟永製衣有限公司工作中，大多數女性顧客前來購買服裝時反應所遭遇的困擾，及觀察與記錄下來的問題進行蒐集。為了解決多數顧客群的困擾，筆者決定進行測量，測量過程中將隨機挑選200名來門市消費顧客進行量測，經由數據分析與觀察結果相互印證，提供筆者更進一步的想法，將服裝錯覺視覺的原理融入設計，並進行一系列設計，來修飾更年期婦女腰腹部肥胖問題。

關鍵字：更年期婦女、服裝、設計元素、視覺錯覺、體型。

Abstract

This research is to investigate waist obesity of menopausal female between the age of 45 to 64 years old. The researcher observed and recorded down issues that majority of the female consumers reflected when purchasing apparel at Chi-Yung Clothing Ltd. Measuring processes then being conducted of obtaining 200 samples; through analyzing the data and cross validating with the observation results, this then gives the researcher to have a better idea of applying the elements of design in order to create optical illusions on apparel for disguising body figure of menopausal female.

Key words: menopausal female, apparel, elements of design, optical illusions, body-figure.

Table of Contents
Abstract..............................................................................................................Ⅰ
Acknowledgments..............................................................................................Ⅲ

1. Introduction.....................................................................................2
1.1 Research background and motives..............................................................4
1.2 Research aims.............................................................................................6
1.3 Research processes.....................................................................................7
1.5 Research range and limitations..................................................................8
1.4.1 Research range..................................................................................8
1.4.2 Research imitations...........................................................................8
2. Literature Reviews........................................................................10
2.1 Menopause..............................................................................................10
2.2 Classification methods of body-type.....................................................11
2.2.1 Classification methods of body-type in Japan............................13
2.2.2 Classification methods of body-type in China............................14
2.3 Benefits of figure type classification.....................................................14
2.4 Optical illusion.......................................................................................15
2.4.1 Types of illusion............................................................................16
2.4.2 Designers who applied optical illusion on fashion design.........23
2.5 Summary..................................................................................................29
3. Methodology...................................................................................31
3.1 Research subject......................................................................................31
3.1.1 Subject setting.................................................................................31
3.2 Observation methods...............................................................................32
3.3 Experimental methods............................................................................33
3.3.1 Measuring method..........................................................................34
3.3.1.1 Measuring instruments........................................................34
3.3.1.2 Measuring processes...........................................................35
3.3.2 Photogrammetric processes............................................................37
3.4 Measuring program of sampling size..................................................39
3.4.1 Sampling techniques....................................................................39
3.4.2 Determining of sample size..........................................................39
4. Research Analysis And Results.....................................................41
4.1. Research analysis and results structures..................................................41
4.2 Subject establishing.................................................................................42
4.3 Body type analysis results........................................................................46
4.3.1 Sizing of targeted subjects...............................................................49
4.4 Photogrammetric analysis.......................................................................50
4.5 Summary..................................................................................................58
5. Design Processes.............................................................................60
5.1. Design structures.....................................................................................60
5.2 Sketch designs.........................................................................................61
5.3 Pattern construction and adjustment........................................................62
5.4 Fabric selection.......................................................................................63
5.5 Sample production..................................................................................64
5.6 Fitting......................................................................................................65
5.7 Finished designs......................................................................................66
5.8 Design description...................................................................................67
5.8.1 Design 1:JC/S/S 2017 Top 1...........................................................67
5.8.2 Design 2:JC/S/S 2017 Dress 1........................................................69
5.8.3 Design 3:JC/S/S 2017 Dress 2........................................................71
5.8.4 Design 4:JC/S/S 2017 Top 2...........................................................73
5.8.5 Design 5:JC/S/S 2017 Dress 3........................................................75
5.8.6 Design 6:JC/S/S 2017 Top 3...........................................................77
5.8.7 Design 7:JC/S/S 2017 Cardigan 3...................................................79
6. Conclusions and Suggestions…………………………………...82
6.1 Conclusions...............................................................................................82
6.2 Contributions.............................................................................................83
6.3 Future research directions.........................................................................83
Reference Lists...................................................................................84
Appendixes Ⅰ 200 Samples' Measurement.................................90
 
List of Tables
2. Literature Reviews
Table 2-1 Classification methods for female Japanese……………….….13
Table 2-2 Chinese Body-type Classification…………………….............14
Table 2-3 Illusions of angle and direction……..........………......……….18
Table 2-4 Illusions of straightness and curvature…………….......……...19
Table 2-5 Illusions of length, distance and area……………………........20
Table 2-6 Illusions of assimilation & contrast...........................................22
4. Research Analysis And Results
Table 4-1 Difference between the two methods…....…………….……….43
Table 4-2 Size classification………..…………………………………….47
Table 4-3 Height size classification………………..…………………….47
Table 4-4 Tall and heavy (Rectangle)……..………………………………53
Table 4-5 Short and heavy (Rectangle)………..………………….....……54
Table 4-6 Bottom heavy (Pear)………..…..……………………………55







List of Figure
1. Introduction
Figure 1-1 Research processes………………………………………...7
2. Literature Reviews
Figure 2-1 Somatotypes..............................................................................15
Figure 2-2 Illusion classification………………………………....……....16
Figure 2-3 2014 Fall by Dries Van Noten…...…………………….……..23
Figure 2-4 2013 S/S by Marc Jacobs……...……...........………………...25
Figure 2-5 2016 Fall by Issey Miyake..……...…………………………..27
3. Methodology
Figure 3-1 Measuring instruments…………………........………………..34
Figure 3-2 Measuring processes…………………….......………………..36
Figure 3-3 Photogrammetric pose………………….……….......………..38
4. Research Analysis and Results
Figure 4-1 Research analysis and results structures………......………..41
Figure 4-2 Body mass index of 200 samples………............……………..44
Figure 4-3 Waist analysis for total subjects….......…………………….45
Figure 4-4 Overweight and waist ≧80cm analysis……….........…….…..45
Figure 4-5 Body type classification –Japan……….......………...………..48
Figure 4-6 Body type classification – China…....………..…...………....48
Figure 4-7 Sizes of targeted subjects…………......……………...………49
Figure 4-8 Figure type..........................................................................…..50
Figure 4-9 Figure type..........................................................................…..51
Figure 4-10 Figure type........................................................................…..52
Figure 4-11 Commonly seen figure types for targeted subjects................56
Figure 4-12 Percentage of height of targeted subjects with rectangular
shaped body figure.................................................................57
5. Design Processes
Figure 5-1 Design structures……………...…………....………………...60
Figure 5-2 Sketch designs…………..………………………....…………61
Figure 5-3 Pattern construction and adjustment…………........………….62
Figure 5-4 Fabric selection…………………………………...………….63
Figure 5-5 Sample production....................................................................64
Figure 5-6 Fitting………………………..…………....….………………65
Figure 5-7 Finished designs…………...…………………...…………….66
Figure 5-8 Design 1:JC/S/S 2017 Top 1…………......……………….…..67
Figure 5-9 Design 1:Before & After…....................................….....…….68
Figure 5-10 Design 2:JC/S/S 2017 Dress 1……………...…………….69
Figure 5-11 Design 2: Before & After….......................................….....…70
Figure 5-12 Design 3:JC/S/S 2017 Dress 2………....…...……………….71
Figure 5-13 Design 3: Before & After….......................................….....…72
Figure 5-14 Design 4:JC/S/S 2017 Top 2………....…………...………...73
Figure 5-15 Design 4 : Before & After…......................................….....…74
Figure 5-16 Design 5:JC/S/S 2017 Dress 3………....………...…………75
Figure 5-17 Design 5 : Before & After…..................................….....…76
Figure 5-18 Design 6:JC/S/S 2017 Top 3………....………………...…...77
Figure 5-19 Design 6 : Before & After…..................................….........…78
Figure 5-20 Design 7:JC/S/S 2017 Cardigan 3………….....……....…….79
Figure 5-21 Design 7 : Before & After…..................................….....…80

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