跳到主要內容

臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

(44.200.171.156) 您好!臺灣時間:2023/03/27 10:18
字體大小: 字級放大   字級縮小   預設字形  
回查詢結果 :::

詳目顯示

: 
twitterline
研究生:潘建志
研究生(外文):PAC,CHIEN-CHIH
論文名稱:含視黃醇及視黃醇棕櫚酸酯化粧品之經皮吸收探討
論文名稱(外文):Investigation on the Percutaneous Absorption of Retinol Derivative in Cosmetics
指導教授:林維炤林維炤引用關係
指導教授(外文):LIN,WEI-CHAO
口試委員:徐照程林恒弘
口試委員(外文):HSU,JAW-CHENGLIN, HUNG-HONG
口試日期:2018-08-31
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:嘉南藥理大學
系所名稱:化粧品應用與管理系
學門:民生學門
學類:美容學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2018
畢業學年度:106
語文別:中文
論文頁數:71
中文關鍵詞:經皮吸收化妝品促進劑視黃醇視黃醇棕櫚酸酯
外文關鍵詞:percutaneous absorptioncosmeticsenhancersretinolretinyl palmitate
相關次數:
  • 被引用被引用:0
  • 點閱點閱:747
  • 評分評分:
  • 下載下載:47
  • 收藏至我的研究室書目清單書目收藏:0
本研究主要探討抗老活性成分,視黃醇及視黃醇棕櫚酸酯於皮膚之經皮吸收,配方採用精華液,水包油乳液,油包水乳液劑型,添加不同濃度丙二醇,1,3丁二醇及甘油等保濕劑作為促進劑。經皮吸收後皮膚與收集液,以乙醇稀釋,超音波震盪萃取濾膜過濾,分析方法採用逆相高效液相層析法HPLC與紫外線UV檢測定量。實驗樣品數為六重複,經Grubbs test檢定離群值。本實驗發現未添加促進劑時,精華液中視黃醇及視黃醇棕櫚酸酯即具有經皮吸收效果,當添加促進劑時,經皮吸收的效果都比未添加時高,顯示促進劑有促進經皮吸收效果。而於精華液配方添加較低濃度丙二醇,1,3丁二醇及甘油等,顯著的增加經皮吸收,當添加較高濃度促進劑配方時,反而減少經皮吸收。比較不同劑型經皮吸收效果,含有視黃醇或視黃醇棕櫚酸酯之精華液或水包油乳液,經皮吸收率都高於油包水乳液。各種劑型配方條件下,穿皮收集液中都沒有檢出視黃醇棕櫚酸酯,顯示視黃醇棕櫚酸酯經皮吸收,部分被皮膚滯留,穿皮量極少,導致沒有檢出。
以上的結果說明,劑型,促進劑的選擇與添加量對於化妝品中活性成分的經皮吸收有很大的影響。

The purpose of this study is to investigate the percutaneous absorption of anti-aging active ingredients, retinol and retinyl palmitate, in the skin. Retinol and retinyl palmitate formulations were made by serum, oil-in-water and water-in- oil emulsion , a propylene glycol, 1,3-Butylene glycol or glycerin was added as a enhancer . After skin percutaneous absorption , the skin and the receptor solution were diluted with ethanol and filtered by ultrasonic concussion extract. The analytical method used reverse phase high performance liquid chromatography HPLC and ultraviolet UV detection to quantify retinol and retinyl palmitate. The number of experimental samples was six replicates and the outliers were determined by Grubbs test.
It was found that when no enhancer was added, the retinol and retinyl palmitate in the serum had percutaneous absorption effect, when adding different concentrations of propylene glycol, 1,3-Butylene glycol and glycerin, the effect of percutaneous absorption is higher than the enhancer is not added. Adding lower concentrations of propylene glycol, 1,3-Butylene glycol and glycerin in the serum can significantly increase the percutaneous absorption of retinol and retinyl palmitate. But when higher enhancer concentrations are added in the serum, the percutaneous absorption of retinol and retinyl palmitate is reduced.
Comparing the percutaneous absorption effects of different formulation, serum, oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions of retinol and retinyl palmitate, the research shows that serum and oil-in-water emulsion percutaneous absorption rate is higher than the water-in-oil emulsion. In the percutaneous absorption study, retinol was detected at recertor solution in different retinol formulations, but retinol palmitate was not detected at recertor solution in different retinol palmitate formulations. It shows that most of the retinyl palmitate was retained by the skin, and the amount of receptor is extremely little, resulting in no detection.
The above results indicate that formulations, types and concentration of the enhancer, are major issue on the percutaneous absorption of the active ingredient in the cosmetic.

目錄
摘要 Ⅰ
目錄 Ⅱ
圖目錄 IX
表目錄 XI

第一章 緒論
1-1前言 1
1-2研究動機與目的 1
1-3研究架構 3

第二章 文獻探討
2-1皮膚構造 5
2-1-1表皮層 5
2-1-2真皮層 6
2-1-3皮下組織 7
2-2皮膚的障壁 7
2-3經皮吸收途徑 8
2-4皮膚吸收的理論與機制 9
2-5配方中極性之探討 10
2-6經皮吸收促進方法 12
2-7體外經皮吸收研究介紹 18
2-7-1皮膚種類及來源 19
2-7-2皮膚障壁功能完整度 20
2-7-3完整表皮分離與保存 21
2-8視黃醇和視黃醇棕櫚酸酯 21
2-8-1衰老機制 21
2-8-2視黃醇介紹 21
2-8-3視黃醇棕櫚酸酯介紹 22
2-8-4視黃醇與視黃醇棕櫚酸酯經皮吸收 24

第三章 實驗材料、儀器設備與方法
3-1實驗材料 26
3-2儀器設備 27
3-3軟體設備 28
3-4研究方法 29
3-4-1模擬樣品備製 29
3-4-2標準品、檢量線配製 34
3-4-3 HPLC分析條件 35
3-4-4 模擬樣品中含量測定 37
3-4-5經皮吸收試驗 37
3-4-6經皮吸收系統條件 40
3-4-7經皮吸收樣品處理 41

第四章 結果與討論
4-1視黃醇與視黃醇棕櫚酸酯檢量線 42
4-2視黃醇與視黃醇棕櫚酸酯經皮吸收 48
4-3視黃醇經皮吸收 50
4-4視黃醇棕櫚酸酯經皮吸收 64

第五章 結論 66

參考文獻 68

參考文獻
1.Stiefel. C., Schwack. W., Photo protection in changing time –UV filter efficacy and safety, sensitization processes and regulatory aspects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2015:p2-30
2.Wiechers.J. W.,Skin Delivery: What it is and Why we need it. Science and Applications of Skin Delivery System. 2008:p1-21.
3.https://courses.lumenlearning.com/suny-wmopen-biology2/chapter/structure-and-function-of-skin/
4.Roberts, R., Corneotherapy: The future of skincare has arrived, Les Nouvelle Esthetiques,2004:p4
5.Roberts, M. S., Targeted drug delivery to the skin and deeper tissues: Role of physiology, solute structure and disease. Clincial and Experimental Pharmacology and Physiology 1997: p874-879
6.Schasfer H., Redelmeier T., Skin Barrier: Principles of Percutaneous absorption., Basel: Karger, 1996:p195.
7.Travis B., Darren S. and Zimei W., Pharmaceutical Strategies for the Topical Dermal Delivery of Peptides/ Proteins for Cosmetic and Therapeutic Applications. Austin J Pharmacol Ther. 2014:1036. ISSN: 2373-6208.p2-6.
8.Barry B.W., Dermatological Formulations, Marcel Dekker., 1983: p127-129.
9.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fick%27s_laws_of_diffusion
10.Wiechers J. W., The influence of formulation type on skin delivery. Science and Applications of skin Delivery System. 2008: p61-69, p91-108.
11.Wiechers J. W., Caroline .L. and Trevor .G.,Formulating for Efficacy. Cosmetics and Toiletries. 2004: 119,p49-62.
12.Asbill C.S., Michniak B.B., Percutaneous penetration enhancers: local versus transdermal activity. Pharmaceutical Science and Technology Today. 2000:3(1),p36–41
13.Williams A.C, Barry B.W.,The enhancement index concept applied to terpene penetration enhancers for human skin and model lipophilic (oestradiol) and hydrophilic (5-fluorouracil) drugs. International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 1991:74,p157–168
14.Nina Dragicevic,Howard .I. Maibach ., Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers Chemical Methods in Penetration Enhancement : Modification of the Stratum Corneum. 2015:p14-16.
15.Lane ME, Santos P, Watkinson AC., Hadgraft J., Passive skin permeation enhancement. In: Benson HE,Watkinson AC (eds) Topical and transdermal drug delivery. Wiley, Hoboken, 2012:p23–42.
16.Williams A.C., Barry B.W., Penetration enhancers.Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews. 2004:56(5), p603–618
17.Lane ME., Skin penetration enhancers. International Journal of Pharmaceutics .2013: 447,p12–21.
18.Shokri J., Nokhodchi A., Dashbolaghi A., The effect of surfactants on the skin penetration of diazepam. International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 2001:228,p99–107.
19.Nokhodchi A., Shokri .J, The enhancement effect of surfactants on the penetration of lorazepam through rat skin. International Journal of Pharmaceutics.2003:250,p359–369.
20.Hansch C., Leo A., Hoekman D., Exploring QSAR - Hydrophobic, Electronic, and Steric Constants. Washington, DC: American Chemical Society., 1995., p. 7
21.US EPA; Estimation Program Interface (EPI) Suite. Ver. 4.1. Nov, 2012. Available from, as of Aug 10, 2015: http://www.epa.gov/oppt/exposure/pubs/episuitedl.htm
22.Franz T.J., Percutaneous absorption. On the relevance of in virtro data. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 1975;54,p399-404.
23.Ramsey, J. D., Woollen, B.H., The predictive accuracy of in vitro measurements for the dermal absorption of a lipophilic penetrant (Fluazifop-Butyl) through rat and human skin”.1994:23,p230-236.
24.Davies D.J.,Ward R.J.,Heylings J.R., Multi-species assessment of electrical resistance as a skin integrity makers for in intro percutaneous absorption studies. Toxicology in Vitro. 2004:18,p351-358.





25.Benech-Kieffer F., Wegrich P. and Schaefer H., Transepidermal water loss as an integrity test for skin barrier function in vitro: Assay standardization. In : KR Brain, VJ James and KA Walters (Eds), Perspectives in Percutaneous Penetration Volume 5a, STS Publishing, Gardiff, Wales, UK.1997:p56.
26.Clowes H.M., Smith F.M. and Scott R.C., Preparation of intact epidermal membranes from whole skun: An in-depth assessment of the Dermatome. Predictions of Percutaneous Penetration. 1993:3b,p123-127.
27.BASF SE (2005) Technical Information, Retinol (Retinol 50 C, Retinol 15 D, Retinol 10 S), Active ingredient for the cosmetics industry, BASF SE, May 2005:p19.
28.Sorg O., Antille C., Retinoids in cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther.2006; 19, p289-296.
29.Sorg O., Saurat JH., Topical retinoids in skin ageing: a focused update with
reference to sun-induced epidermal vitamin A deficiency. Dermatology.2014:
228,p314-25.
30.BASF SE (2006) Technical Information, Vitamin A Palmitate, Vitamin A Acetate,
Active ingredient for the cosmetics industry, BASF SE, August 2006:p228.
31.Roche (1989) Determination of penetration rates of 4 Vitamin A palmitate creams
CMC-01-109-112 (Ro 01-5852) on the intact skin of naked rat and pig in vitro, Roche
Research Report No. B-155’109, Depart: PF/TOX, unpublished data, 18 May 1989,
confidential data.
32.L’Oreal (1997) Comparaison de la liberation-penetration in vitro sur peau humaine
après application topique des deux emulsuions H/E contenant 0.15% (p/p) de all trans-retinyl palmitate [10, 11-14C], Rapport No. 2.CG.03.SRE.4630, CIRD Galderma,Valbonne, France, L’Oreal No. 16268, unpublished report, 27 May 1997.
33.Beiersdorf. Dermale Penetration von Retinylpalmitat in verschiedenen
Vehikeln nach Applikation auf exzidierte Schweinehaut, Beiersdorf Report No.
1120.7344-32-01, Paul Gerson Unna, Skin Research Center, unpublished data, 24
April 1998, confidential data.
34.Yourick J.J., Jung C.T., Bronaugh R.L., In vitro and in vivo percutaneous
absorption of retinol from cosmetic formulations: Significance of the skin reservoir
and prediction of systemic absorption, Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, 2008:p 231,p117-121
35.Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, SCCS. Opinion on Vitamin A (Retinol, Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate ), SCCS/1576/16, Final version of 6 October 2016: p23-45.


36.Ates G., Steinmetz FP., Doktorova TY, Madden JC., Linking existing in vitro dermal absorption data to physicochemical properties: Contribution to the design of a weight-of-evidence approach for the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients with low dermal bioavailability. regul toxicol pharmacol journal , 2016:p76, p74-78.
37.OECD/OCDE 428. OECD Guideline for the Testing of Chemicals, skin absorption: In vitro method, 2004:p2-4.


QRCODE
 
 
 
 
 
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               
第一頁 上一頁 下一頁 最後一頁 top