臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

談到污染，我們通常不會想到我們穿的衣服，但服裝行業正在危及我們的星球。市場經濟將服裝業的決策權從企業轉移到消費者。為了使時尚產業永續發展，除了技術創新之外，還有必要對行業的服務對象進行研究。消費者服裝偏好研究是服裝行業永續發展的重要組成部分，也將對環境和設計永續性產生影響。
研究消費者的服裝偏好需要先瞭解服裝的發展趨勢。來自中性化服裝的時尚正在成爲一種潮流，故本研究之重點為兩性消費者之偏好與感知研究。兩性之間的性別界限變得越來越模糊，在服飾上也日趨中性化。隨著中性化概念的研究與應用，單一的性別模式隨著社會多元化的出現而開始改變，而這樣的思維方式也為設計師提供了更多構思與設計的空間。對於性別文化的探討也日趨開放，而外在的服飾也不再是判斷男女性別的外在語言符號，不同於傳統二元性別劃分的中性化現象的出現也為服裝設計師們提供了更多的可能性。
色彩和花紋是兩種重要的時尚特徵，會對消費者的喜好和購買意願產生很大的影響。調查消費者對服裝布料的顏色和花紋的偏好，可以幫助服裝行業開發新的和流行的產品。在“中性化服裝”即“無性別化趨向服裝”逐漸開始引領大衆消費的風潮的背景下，本研究進行了兩個物理心理實驗，分析了人們對服裝布料色彩與格紋的感知和偏好，包括男性與女性在審美上的異同，以為中性化服飾設計提供參考。針對單色襯衫的感知與偏好實驗結果表明：對於“難以搭配的-容易搭配的”的反應與“不喜歡的-喜歡的”高度相關。此外，女性對“難以搭配的-容易搭配的”的反應與兩對形容詞(“樸素的-華麗的”和“顯胖的-顯瘦的”)有很強的相關性，而男性對兩對形容詞(“樸素的-華麗的”和“男性化的-女性化的”) (“男性化的-女性化的”在後文簡稱“男性的-女性的”)也有很強的相關性。最後，建立了單色襯衫審美感知的層次前饋模型來預測單色襯衫的偏好程度。針對黑白格紋襯衫的感知與偏好實驗結果表明：在89.29%的黑白格紋襯衫中，女性和男性對格紋的偏好沒有顯著差異，並描述了女性和男性喜歡或不喜歡的格紋特徵。此外，研究還證明了四種語意尺度與三種格紋特徵之間的關係。這些研究結果可爲服裝布料偏好的研究提供一個更加健全的理論依據，爲襯衫布料的設計與採用提供參考。本研究結果也可用於開發更加全面的中性化服裝布料偏好理論，並為中性化襯衫設計提供參考。更全面的服裝布料偏好理論不僅是解決服裝行業污染問題的有效工具，也是服裝“永續設計”的重要理論基礎，對服裝行業的永續發展具有重要意義。

When it comes to pollution, we do not usually think about the clothes we wear, but the clothing industry is really endangering our planet. The market economy has transferred the decision-making power of the garment industry from enterprises to consumers. To make the fashion industry sustainable, in addition to technological innovation, it is also necessary to conduct research on the service clients of the industry. Consumer clothing preference research is an important part of the sustainable development of the clothing industry, and it will also have an impact on environmental and design sustainability.
To study consumers' clothing preferences, we need to understand the trend of clothing development first. Fashion from neutral clothing is becoming a trend. Therefore, this study focuses on the preferences and perceptions of male and female consumers. The gender boundaries between the sexes have become increasingly blurred and neutral in clothing. With the research and application of the concept of neutralization, the single gender model begins to change with the emergence of social pluralism, and this way of thinking also provides more space for designers to conceive and design. Discussions on gender culture are becoming more and more open, and the external clothing is no longer the external language symbol to judge the gender of men and women. The emergence of neutralization, which is different from the traditional dual gender division, also provides more possibilities for fashion designers.
As the important fashion features, color and pattern can influence consumers’ clothing preferences and purchase intentions. Investigating consumers' preference for colors and patterns of clothing fabrics can help the garment industry to develop new and popular products. Hence, two psychophysical experiments based on solid color shirts and black-and-white plaid shirts are carried out to analyze people’s perceptions and preferences concerning fashion colors and patterns, including the aesthetic differences and similarities between males and females. The experimental results of perception and preference for solid color shirts show that the hard-to-match/easy-to-match response was found to be highly correlated with dislike/like. Furthermore, the response of the females concerning hard-to-match/easy-to-match had a strong correlation with two adjective pairs (plain/gaudy and slim-look/fat-look), while that of the males also had a strong correlation with two adjective pairs (plain/gaudy and masculine/feminine). Finally, a hierarchical feed-forward model of aesthetic perception for solid color shirts was established to predict the shirt preference degree. The experimental results of perception and preference for black-and-white plaid shirts show that there was no significant difference of pattern preference between females and males for 89.29% of the black-and-white plaid shirts, and also described features of the patterns that the females and males liked or disliked. Furthermore, the study also demonstrated the formulation between the four semantic scales and three pattern features (including the percentage of black region, the size of the minimum repeat unit, and the descriptor of the pattern complexity). The findings could be used to develop a more robust and comprehensive theory of clothing fabric preferences and provide a reference for neutral clothing fabric design. More comprehensive clothing fabric preference theory is not only an effective tool to solve the problem of plaid shirt inventory in the garment industry but also an important theoretical basis for the “sustainable design” of clothing, which is of great significance to the sustainable development of the garment industry.

謝誌 2
摘要 i
ABSTRACT iii
目次 vii
表次 xi
圖次 xii
第壹章 緒論 1
第一節 研究背景與動機 1
第二節 研究目的與問題 9
第貳章 文獻探討 12
第一節 服裝行業的永續思考 12
2.1.1 服裝行業現狀 12
2.1.2 “永續”概念的歷史 16
2.1.3 永續設計的概念 18
2.1.4 情感永續設計 22
第二節 中性化服飾思考 26
2.2.1 中性化服裝的相關概念解析 26
2.2.2 中性化服裝的流行趨勢 27
2.2.3 有關服装中性化现象的研究 30
第三節 一般情境感知與偏好分析 33
第四節 產品色彩的感知與偏好分析 35
第五節 服裝格紋的相關研究 39
第叁章 研究方法 44
第一節 單色襯衫的實驗細節 44
3.1.1 當前單色襯衫顏色分析 44
3.1.2 襯衫色彩方案設計 46
3.1.3 單色襯衫模擬 48
3.1.4 語意量表設計 49
3.1.5 實驗設備與環境 51
3.1.6 觀察人員 51
第二節 黑白格紋襯衫的實驗細節 52
3.2.1 數據蒐集 52
3.2.2 格紋分類 58
3.2.3 實驗步驟 60
3.2.4實驗設備與環境 61
3.2.5 觀察人員 62
第肆章 研究結果與討論 64
第一節 單色襯衫的物理心理實驗 64
4.1.1獨立樣本t檢驗 64
4.1.2 相關與迴歸分析 67
第二節 黑白格紋襯衫的物理心理實驗 75
4.2.1 迴歸分析 75
4.2.2 獨立樣本t檢驗 79
4.2.3 單一樣本t檢驗 82
4.2.4 混合設計二因子變異數分析 85
第伍章 結論與建議 93
第一節 結論 93
第二節 後續研究建議 96
參考文獻 97
中文部分 97
英文部分 99

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