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研究生:李沛璇
研究生(外文):LEE,PEI-HSUAN
論文名稱:植物型乳化化粧品之穩定性探討
論文名稱(外文):A study on the stability of plant-based emulsified cosmetics
指導教授:洪偉章洪偉章引用關係
指導教授(外文):HUNG,WEI-JING
口試委員:鄭智交李淑婉
口試委員(外文):ZHENG,ZHI-JIAOLI,SHU-WAN
口試日期:2021-06-09
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:嘉南藥理大學
系所名稱:化粧品應用與管理系
學門:民生學門
學類:美容學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2021
畢業學年度:109
語文別:中文
論文頁數:104
中文關鍵詞:植物來源乳化劑矽油粉劑黏度粒徑分佈穩定性
外文關鍵詞:Plant-derived emulsifiersilicon oilpowderviscosityparticle size distributionstability
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植物來源乳化產品已是當今全球化粧品市場趨勢,化粧品使用粉體之目的在於校正膚色、修飾肌膚質感容貌、吸收皮脂與汗液,也可防禦紫外線。這些產品特性的乳化結構及粉體之間的穩定性、包容性有很大的影響,生產出外觀、使用觸感、安定性兼具的產品極為重要。
本研究使用的研究方法是以不同的植物型乳化劑(Hydrogenated Lecithin(and)C12-16 Alcohols(and)Palmitics acid、Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Glyceryl Esters (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate、Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglycerol-3 Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate)為基礎,製作O/W型乳化化粧品配方,添加粉體及不同助穩定劑(Cetearyl Alcohol、Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer),藉由溫度及離心試驗加速產品老化,對配方樣品進行酸鹼度、粒徑分析及黏度測試,觀察其配方穩定性。
研究結果顯示:(1)三種乳化系統之自乳化效力皆不足以獲得穩定之配方。(2) Hydrogenated Lecithin(and)C12-16 Alcohols(and)Palmitics acid在此研究中為較適合與粉體搭配之乳化系統,此系統是卵磷脂來源,因結構與人體相似,能夠提供肌膚舒適的觸感與減低刺激性。(3)添加助穩定劑能有效提升產品外觀、平均粒徑、產品黏度之穩定性。(4)添加矽油Cyclomethicone雖能提供產品絲滑、不黏膩的觸感,但因其結構具揮發性,在使用上容易受到加熱的限制。(5)整體乳化效力為Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Glyceryl Esters (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate > Hydrogenated Lecithin(and)C12-16 Alcohols(and)Palmitics acid > Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglycerol-3 Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate。
本研究結果可提供未來開發O/W型配方之參考依據。
Emulsion products of plant origin have become a trend in the global cosmetics market. The purpose of powder cosmetics is to correct skin tone, modify skin texture and appearance, absorb sebum and sweat, and protect against ultraviolet rays. The emulsifying structure of these products and the stability and tolerance between the powders have a great impact, so it is very important to produce products with appearance, tactility and stability.
The research methods used in this study are different plant emulsifiers (Hydrogenated Lecithin(and)C12-16 hols(and)Palmitics acid and Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Glyceryl Esters (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran polyglycerol-3 Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, O/W emulsification makeup formula, adding powder and different stabilizer (Cetearyl Alcohol, Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer), By temperature and centrifugal test to accelerate the aging of the product, the pH, particle size and viscosity of the formula samples were analyzed to observe the stability of the formula.
The results showed that :(1) the self-emulsification efficiency of the three emulsifying systems was not sufficient to obtain a stable formula. (2) Hydrogenated Lecithin(and)C12-16 Alcohols(and)Palmitics acid is an emulsifying system suitable for powder matching in this study. The system is the source of Lecithin, and its structure is similar to that of human body. Can provide skin comfortable tactile feeling and reduce irritation. (3) Adding stabilizer can effectively improve the stability of product appearance, average particle size and product viscosity. (4) the addition of silicon oil Cyclomethicone can provide products with smooth, non-sticky touch, but because of its volatile structure, it is easy to be restricted by heating in use. (5) The overall emulsifying effect is Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate > Hydrogenated Lecithin(and)C12-16 Alcohols(and)Palmitics acid > Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglycerol-3 Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate.
The results of this study can provide reference for the development of O/W type formulations in the future.
中文摘要.................I
Abstract.................Ⅲ
表目錄...................X
圖目錄...................XII
誌謝.....................Ⅴ
第一章 緒論...............1
1-1前言..................1
1-2研究動機...............2
1-3研究目的...............3
1-4研究架構...............4
第二章 文獻回顧............5
2-1乳化化粧品..............5
2-1-1乳化劑之目的與應用.....5
2-1-2乳化體系的設計.........7
2-1-3植物來源乳化劑之結構與特性..........8
2-2乳化化粧品之穩定性因素...............10
2-2-1影響乳化穩定之因素與評估方法........10
2-2-2乳化化粧品之不穩定現象..............14
2-2-3乳化化粧品之粒徑大小................17
2-3油脂.................................20
2-3-1化粧品之常見的油脂..................20
2-3-2矽油之性質與結構....................20
2-3-3矽油於化粧品之應用..................22
2-3-4化粧品之常見的植物油................23
2-3-5植物油於化粧品之應用與發展...........26
2-4粉體.................................27
2-4-1化粧品粉體之性質....................27
2-4-2化粧品粉體之應用與發展...............31
2-4-3影響粉末型化粧品穩定之因素...........32
2-5助穩定劑..............................34
2-5-1化粧品助穩定劑之定義.................34
2-5-2化粧品添加助穩定劑之功能.............34
2-5-3常見化粧品添加之高分子...............36
2-6化粧品流變學..........................38
2-6-1流變學概述..........................38
2-6-2化粧品流變學........................38
2-6-3乳化化粧品之黏度特性 41
第三章 實驗方法 43
3-1 研究材料 43
3-2儀器設備 46
3-3實驗流程 47
3-4樣品製備 49
3-5研究測試方法 54
3-5-1溫度試驗 54
3-5-2離心試驗 54
3-5-3酸鹼值試驗 55
3-5-4粒徑分佈測試 55
3-5-5黏度測試 56
第四章 結果與討論 57
4-1乳化化粧品穩定性之探討 57
4-1-1乳化劑於化粧品之溫度老化及離心的影響 57
4-1-2鯨蠟硬脂醇於化粧品之溫度老化及離心的影響 59
4-1-3高分子於化粧品之溫度老化及離心的影響 61
4-1-4乳化劑、鯨蠟硬脂醇、高分子於化粧品之溫度老化及離心的影響 63
4-2 粉體對乳化化粧品穩定性之探討 66
4-3乳化化粧品之酸鹼值探討 67
4-4乳化化粧品之粒徑探討 70
4-4-1乳化劑於乳化化粧品之粒徑探討 70
4-4-2粉劑於乳化化粧品之粒徑探討 72
4-4-3助穩定劑於乳化化粧品之粒徑探討 74
4-5乳化化粧品之黏度探討 77
4-5-1乳化劑於乳化化粧品之黏度探討 77
4-5-2粉劑於乳化化粧品之黏度探討 79
4-5-3助穩定劑於乳化化粧品之黏度探討 82
4-6配方穩定性探討 85
第五章 總結 86
第六章 參考文獻 88

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