臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

本論文旨在探討伊迪絲·華頓小說中服裝展示的表現形式。時裝在構建和調和新女性的身體形象、身份和社會空間中發揮著能動作用。華頓在書寫她的兩部最著名的小説《歡樂之家》和《純真年代》期間，世界發生了翻天覆地的變化。考慮到十九世紀後期時興的服裝布料、質地、顔色和設計，在二十世紀頭二十年裡就已經過時，不流行，甚至都被人遺忘了，華頓試圖重拾鍍金時代關於服裝的群體記憶。華頓的大部分早期小説都是關於製作服裝與儀式化地展示服裝這兩個世界的共存。時裝成爲反映社會變革的最顯著的信號之一。解讀華頓小説中的時裝亦是在解讀其内在的結構、相互交織的社會風俗、價值觀、政治與道德。布料的重叠、衣裙的褶皺、帽子的面紗是遮擋，更是展露。換言之，在華頓早期小説中，時裝比物質文化中任何別的物件都重要。
本論文認爲無論消費文化和物質文化怎樣構建、調配人與物的互動，這種互動都不能被視為等同於其所處的文化。可以認爲，人的意志本身就存在於物之中；人際關係也是通過物的運用來形塑和構建的。本論文關切的是新女性如何拒絕接受分離領域的諸多約束，並著重强調了物質客體與人類主體之間複雜的相互性，尤其是女性與時尚物件之間相互發揮能動作用，以及它們彼此構建、相互表達的過程。時尚物件通過參與並融入人類歷史、日常習慣、實踐以及未明確表達的願望而在文學文本中栩栩如生，反之亦然。華頓通過强調時尚在塑造身體形象、身份和社會空間，以及駕馭權力關係等方面的積極作用，構建了一種新的女性主體性。這種女性主體性不斷流變，始終處於不斷形成的過程和權力的動態關係之中。

This dissertation explores representations of sartorial display in Edith Wharton’s fiction. Fashion functions as an agency structuring and mediating the New Woman’s body images, identities, and social spaces. Between the writing of her two most famous novels, The House of Mirth (1905) and The Age of Innocence (1920), the world changed in cataclysmic ways. Since the very fabrics, textures, colors and designs of garments in the late nineteenth century of her youth had fallen out of style, out of favor, and indeed out of memory in the first two decades of the twentieth century, Wharton sought to replenish the collective memory of apparel in the Gilded Age. Much of Wharton’s early fiction is about the juxtaposition of these two worlds, one established for the making of garments and the other for the ceremonial display of goods. Fashion becomes one of the most significant indicators of social transformations. Reading fashion in Wharton’s fiction is the way to read the underlying structure, the interweaving of manners, values, politics, and morals. The overlapped fabric, the draping of a dress, and the veiling of a hat reveal more than they conceal. In other words, fashion outshines all other objects of material culture in Wharton’s early fiction.
This dissertation argues that no matter how people’s interaction with the objects is structured and mediated by consumer culture and material culture, it cannot be recognized as reducible to that culture. Arguably, the nature of human intention itself is lodged within objects, and human relations are framed and structured by the use of objects. This dissertation concerns the New Woman’s rejection of the constrictions of separate spheres and foregrounds the complex reciprocity between material objects and human subjects, particularly the reciprocity of agency between women and fashionable objects, and the process of their mutual constitution and articulation. Fashionable objects come alive in literary texts through their participation and absorption in human histories, routines, practices, and unarticulated aspirations, and vice versa. By highlighting fashion’s active role in negotiating body images, identities, and social spaces, and navigating through power relations, Wharton constructs a new model of female subjectivity as one in flux, always in the process of becoming, and perpetually engrossed in dynamic power relations.

Acknowledgements iii
Chinese Abstract iv
English Abstract vi
Introduction 1
Chapter One: Material Culture and Ways to Theorize Fashion 28
Chapter Two: Fashioning the Self in The House of Mirth 63
Chapter Three: Collection and Display in The Custom of the Country 117
Chapter Four: Fashions and Women’s Spaces in The Age of Innocence 154
Conclusion 191
Works Cited 197

Ammons, Elizabeth. Conflicting Stories: American Women Writers at the Turn into the Twentieth Century. Oxford University Press, 1992.
——. Edith Wharton’s Argument with America. University of Georgia Press, 1980.
“An Unnecessary Factor.” Harper’s Bazaar, vol. 27, 23 Jun. 1894, p. 495.
Appadurai, Arjun. “Introduction: Commodities and the Politics of Value.” The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. Edited by Arjun Appadurai, Cambridge University Press, 1986, pp. 3-63.
Aretz, Gertrude. The Elegant Woman: From the Rococo Period to Modern Times. Translated by James Laver, George G. Harrap & Co. Ltd., 1932.
Atzmon, Leslie, and Prasad Boradkar. “Introduction: A Design Encounter with Thing Theory.” Design and Culture, vol. 6, issue 2, 2014, pp.141-52.
Balter, Ariel. “What Does **** Want? Desire and Consumerism in Edith Wharton’s The Custom of the Country.” American Literary Realism, 1870-1910, vol. 27, no. 3, 1995, pp. 19-36.
Barnard, Malcolm. Fashion as Communication. Routledge, 2002.
——. Fashion Theory: An Introduction. Routledge, 2014.
Barthes, Roland. The Language of Fashion. Bloomsbury Academic, 2013.
Benedict, Ruth. Patterns of Culture. Introduced by Franz Boas and prefaced by Margaret Mead, The New American Library, 1960.
Benjamin, Walter. “Unpacking My Library: A Talk about Book Collecting.” Illuminations. 1969. Translated by Harry Zohn, edited and introduced by Hannah Arendt, Schocken Books, 2007, pp. 59-67.
Bentley, Nancy. The Ethnography of Manners: Hawthorne, James, Wharton. Oxford University Press, 1995.
Berger, John. Ways of Seeing. Penguin, 1972.
Bhabha, Homi. “Unpacking My Library Again.” The Journal of the Midwest Modern Language Association, vol. 28, no. 1, 1995, pp. 5-18.
Bourdieu, Pierre. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste. Translated by Richard Nice, Harvard University Press, 1984.
——. Outline of a Theory of Practice. Translated by Richard Nice, Cambridge University Press, 1977.
Brandt, Allan M. The Cigarette Century: The Rise, Fall, and Deadly Persistence of the Product that Defined America. Basic Books, 2007.
Brown, Bill. A Sense of Things: The Object Matter of American Literature. University of Chicago Press, 2003.
——. “Thing Theory.” Critical Inquiry, vol. 28, no. 1, Autumn, 2001, pp. 1-22.
Burns, Eric. The Smoke of the Gods: A Social History of Tobacco. Temple University Press, 2007.
Cage, E. Claire. “The Sartorial Self: Neoclassical Fashion and Gender Identity in France, 1797-1804.” Eighteenth-Century Studies, vol. 42, no. 2, 2009, pp. 193-215.
Carson, Benjamin D. “‘That Doubled Vision’: Edith Wharton and The House of Mirth.” Women’s Studies, vol. 32, 2003, pp. 695-717.
Carter, Michael. Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes. Berg, 2003.
Chen, Eva. “Freedom or Constraint: The Speeding Bicycle and the Industrial Subject in H. G. Wells’s The Wheels of Chance.” Victorian Literature and Culture, vol. 45, 2017, pp. 433-77.
——. Gadgets, Fashion Display and Women's Material Strategies in the Turn-of-the-Century Novel. Chengchi University Press, 2016.
Craik, Jennifer. Fashion the Key Concepts. Berg, 2009.
——. The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion. Routledge, 1993.
Dant, Tim. Material Culture in the Social World: Values, Activities, Lifestyles. Open University Press, 1999.
Dimock, Wai Chee. “Debasing Exchange: Edith Wharton’s The House of Mirth.” PMLA, vol. 100, no. 5, 1985, pp. 783-92.
Dinnerstein, Leonard and David M. Reimers. Ethnic Americans: A History of Immigration. 4th ed., Columbia University Press, 1999.
Douglass, Mary, and Baron Isherwood. The World of Goods: Towards an Anthropology of Consumption. Allen Lane, 1978.
Dreiser, Theodore. Sister Carrie. Doubleday, Page & Co., 1900.
Dyer, Serena. Material Lives: Women Makers and Consumer Culture in the 18th Century. Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2021.
Emsley, Sarah. “Introduction.” The Custom of the Country. Edited by Sarah Emsley, Broadview Press, 2008, pp. 10-29.
Entwistle, Joanne, and Elizabeth Wilson. “Introduction: Body Dressing.” Body Dressing. Edited by Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth Wilson, Berg, 2001, pp. 1-9.
Erben, Michael. “Some Notes on Mrs. Lloyd, Mrs. Lloyd, and Lily Bart.” Edith Wharton Review, vol. 33, no. 2, 2017, pp. 361-70.
Fleming, E. McClung. “Artifact Study: A Proposed Model.” Winterthur Portfolio, vol. 9, 1974, pp. 153-73.
Flügel, John Carl. The Psychology of Clothes. Hogarth, 1930.
Gibbs-Smith, Charles. “James Laver, C.B.E.” Costume, vol. 10, no. 1, 1976, pp. 123-24.
Gilman, Charlotte Perkins. Women and Economics: A Study of the Economic Relation Between Men and Women as a Factor in Social Evolution. Small, Maynard & Company, 1898.
Greenwood, Janette Thomas. The Gilded Age: A History in Documents. Oxford University Press, 2003.
Hardy, Thomas. The Hand of Ethelberta: A Comedy in Chapters. Macmillan, 1975.
Harman, Graham. Guerrilla Metaphysics: Phenomenology and the Carpentry of Things. Open Court, 2005.
——. Heidegger Explained: From Phenomenon to Thing. Open Court, 2007.
——. Tool-Bing: Heidegger and the Metaphysics of Objects. Open Court, 2002.
——. “The Well-Wrought Broken Hammer: Object-Oriented Literary Criticism.” New Literary History, vol. 43, no. 2, Spring, 2012, pp. 183-203.
——. Tool-Bing: Heidegger and the Metaphysics of Objects. Open Court, 2002.
Harvey, Karen. “Introduction: Practical matters.” History and Material Culture: A Student’s Guide to Approaching Alternative Sources. Edited by Karen Harvey, Routledge, 2009, pp. 1-23.
Harzewski, Stephanie. “Tradition and Displacement in the New Novel of Manners.” Chick Lit: The New Woman’s Fiction. Edited by Suzanne Ferriss and Mallory Young, Routledge, 2006, pp. 29-46.
Haweis, Mary Eliza Joy. The Art of Beauty. Chatto & Windus, 1883.
Head, James H. Home Pastimes: or Tableaux Vivants. J. E. Tilton, 1860.
Heidegger, Martin. Being and Time. 1927. Translated by Joan Stambaugh, State University of New York Press, 1996.
——. Poetry, Language, Thought. 1971. Translated by Albert Hofstadter, Harper Perennial Modern Classics, 2001.
Hicks, Dan, and Mary C. Beaudry (eds). The Oxford Handbook of Material Culture Studies. Oxford University Press, 2010.
Hofstadter, Richard. Social Darwinism in American Thought. Beacon Press, 1968.
——. The Age of Reform: From Bryan to F. D. R. 1955. Alfred A. Knopf, 1963.
Hollander, Anne. Seeing through Clothes. University of California Press, 1993.
——. Sex and Suits. Kodansha International, 1994.
Hughes, Clair. “Consuming Clothes: Edith Wharton’s The House of Mirth.” Fashion Theory, vol. 9, no. 4, 2005, pp. 383-406.
——. Dressed in Fiction. Berg Publishers, 2006.
——. Henry James and the Art of Dress. Palgrave Macmillan, 2001.
Joslin, Katherine. Edith Wharton and the Making of Fashion. University of New Hampshire Press, 2009.
Jones, Howard Mumford. The Age of Energy: Varieties of American Experience 1865-1915. The Viking Press, 1971.
Jessee, Margaret Jay. “Narration and Masking in Edith Wharton’s The Age of Innocence.” Journal of Modern Literature, vol. 36, no. 1, 2012, pp. 37-52.
Kaiser, Susan B. Fashion and Cultural Studies. Berg, 2012.
Kant, Immanuel. Critique of Pure Reason. 1781. Translated and edited by Paul Guyer and Allen W. Wood, Cambridge University Press, 1998.
Killoran, Helen. Edith Wharton: Art and Allusion. The University of Alabama Press, 1996.
Knights, Pamela. “Forms of Disembodiment: The Social Subject in The Age of Innocence.” The Cambridge Companion to Edith Wharton. Edited by Millicent Bell, Cambridge University Press, 1995, pp. 20-46.
Kurlansky, Mark. Salt: A World History. Jonathan Cape, 2002.
Laver, James. Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution to the Present Day. Harrap, 1937.
Lee, Hermione. Edith Wharton. Alfred A. Knopf, 2007.
Leighton, J. “The Flight of Fashion.” Punch, vol. 4, Oct. 1899, p. 160.
Lin, Nan. Social Capital: A Theory of Social Structure and Action. Cambridge University Press, 2001.
Mandel, Ernest. “Introduction.” Capital: A Critique of Political Economy, vol.1. By Karl Marx and translated by Ben Fowkes, Penguin Classics, 1990, pp. 11-86.
Marks, Patricia. Bicycles, Bangs, and Bloomers: The New Woman in the Popular Press. The University Press of Kentucky, 2015.
Marx, Karl. Capital: A Critique of Political Economy, Vol.1. Translated by Ben Fowkes and introduced by Ernest Mandel, Penguin Classics, 1990.
Massey. Doreen. For Space. Sage, 2005.
May, Henry F. The Divided Heart: Essays on Protestantism and the Enlightenment in America. Oxford University Press, 1991.
Meares, Ainslie. The New Woman. Collins, 1974.
Miller, Daniel. “Materiality: An Introduction.” Materiality. Edited by Daniel Miller, Duke University Press, 2005, pp. 1-51.
——. Material Culture and Mass Consumption. Blackwell, 1987.
——. The Comfort of Things. Polity Press, 2009.
——. “Why Some Things Matter.” Material Cultures: Why Some Things Matter. Edited by Daniel Miller, The University of Chicago Press, 1998, pp. 3-21.
Miller, Michael B. The Bon Marché: Bourgeois Culture and the Department Store, 1869-1920. Princeton University Press, 1981.
“Miss Slimmens’ Window.” Godey’s Lady’s Book, vol, 58, Jan. 1859, pp. 40-45.
Montgomery, Maureen E. Displaying Women: Spectacles of Leisure in Edith Wharton’s New York. Routledge, 1998.
Moxham, Roy. Tea: Addiction, Exploitation and Empire. Constable, 2003.
Nevius, Blake. Edith Wharton: A Study of Her Fiction. University of California Press, 1953.
Nunn, Joan. Fashion in Costume, 1200-2000. New Amsterdam Books, 2000.
Ohler, Paul. “Forms of Ambivalence to ‘Tabloid Culture’ in Edith Wharton’s The Custom of the Country.” English Studies in Canada, vol. 36, no. 2-3, June/Sept. 2010, pp. 33-62.
O’Neill, William L. “Divorce in the Progressive Era.” Readings on the Sociology of the Family. Edited by Bert N. Adams and Thomas Weirath, Markham Publishing Company, 1971, pp. 41-49.
Orlando, Emily J. Edith Wharton and the Visual Arts. University of Alabama Press, 2007.
——. “Rereading Wharton’s ‘Poor Archer’: A Mr. ‘Might-have-been’ in The Age of Innocence.” American Literary Realism, 1870-1910, vol. 30, no. 2, 1998, pp. 56-76.
Penny, Virginia. The Employments of Women: A Cyclopaedia of Woman’s Work. Walker, Wise & Co., 1863.
Phelan, James. “The Age of Innocence (1920): Bildung and the Ethics of Desire.” Reading the American Novel 1920-2010. Blackwell Publishing Ltd., 2013, pp. 39-60.
Plotz, John. “Materiality in Theory: What to Make of Victorian Things.” The Oxford Handbook of Victorian Literary Culture. Edited by Juliet John, Oxford University Press, 2016, pp. 522-38.
——. Portable Property: Victorian Culture on the Move. Princeton University Press, 2008.
Preston, Madge. “Fibre Chamois is Awarded the Verdict of Superiority.” The Peterson Magazine, vol. VI, 1896, pp. 330-31.
Radcliffe, J. N. “The Physical Condition of Milliners and Dressmakers.” The Lancet, 21 Jan. 1865, pp. 75-76.
Ramsden, Guendolen. “Extravagance in Dress.” The Nineteenth Century: A Monthly Review, vol. 48, Nov. 1900, pp. 755-63.
Riello, Giorgio. Cotton: The Fabric that Made the Modern World. Cambridge University Press, 2013.
Ruth, John A. Decorum: A Practical Treatise on Etiquette and Dress of the Best American Society. Charles L. Snyder, 1881.
Santayana, George. Character and Opinion in the United States. Constable and Company Ltd., 1920.
Sapora, Carol Baker. “Undine Spragg, the Mirror and the Lamp in The Custom of the Country.” Memorial Boxes and Guarded Interiors: Edith Wharton and Material Culture. Edited by Gary Totten, The University of Alabama Press, 2007, pp. 265-86.
Schumpeter, Joseph Alois. History of Economic Analysis. Oxford University Press, 1994.
Shepherd, Jennifer. “Fashioning an Aesthetics of Consumption in The House of Mirth.” Memorial Boxes and Guarded Interiors: Edith Wharton and Material Culture. Edited by Gary Totten, University of Alabama Press, 2007, pp. 135-58.
Sherwood, Mary Elizabeth Wilson. Manners and Social Usages. Harper & Brothers, 1884.
Showalter, Elaine. Daughters of Decadence: Women Writers of the Fin-de-Siècle. Rutgers University Press, 1993.
——. “Spragg: The Art of the Deal.” The Cambridge Companion to Edith Wharton. Cambridge University Press, 2006, pp. 87-97.
——. “The Death of the Lady (Novelist): Wharton’s House of Mirth.” Representations, vol. 9, 1985, pp.133-49.
Simmel, Georg. “Fashion.” The American Journal of Sociology, vol. 62, no. 6, May, 1957, pp. 541-58.
Singley, Carol J. Edith Wharton: Matters of Mind and Spirit. Cambridge University Press, 1998.
Smith, Caroline J. Cosmopolitan Culture and Consumerism in Chick Lit. Routledge, 2008.
Smith-Rosenberg, Carroll. Disorderly Conduct: Visions of Gender in Victorian America. Oxford University Press, 1986.
Soergel, Philip M., editor. Arts and Humanities Through the Eras: The Age of Baroque and Enlightenment (1600-1800). Thomason Gale, 2004.
Speed, Jno. Gilmer. “Village Improvement.” Harper’s Barzaar, vol. 27, Jun. 23, 1894, p. 499.
Steele, Valerie. “A Museum of Fashion is More Than a Clothes-Bag.” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, vol. 2, no. 4, 1998, pp. 327-35.
Stewart, Nadine. American Milliners and Their World: Women’s Work from Revolution to Rock and Roll. Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2021.
Stoneley, Peter. Consumerism and American Girls’ Literature, 1860-1940. Cambridge University Press, 2003.
Tacchi, Jo. “Radio Texture: Between Self and Others.”Material Culture and Mass Consumption. Edited by Daniel Miller, Blackwell, 1987, pp. 25-45.
“The New Woman: A New Nursery Rhyme for Child-men.” Punch, vol. 106, 26 May 1894, p. 252.
Tichi, Cecelia. “Women Writers and the New Woman.” Columbia Literary History of the United States. Edited by Emory Elliott, Columbia University Press 1988, pp. 589-636.
Totten, Gary. “Introduction: Edith Wharton and Material Culture.” Memorial Boxes and Guarded Interiors: Edith Wharton and Material Culture. Edited by Gary Totten, University of Alabama Press, 2007, pp. 1-16.
——. “Wharton’s Wild West: Undine Spragg and the Dakota Divorce.” Arizona Quarterly: A Journal of American Literature, Culture, and Theory, vol. 76, no. 2, 2020, pp.1-28.
Trasko, Mary. Daring Do’s: A History of Extraordinary Hair. Flammarion, 1994.
Tusan, Michelle Elizabeth. “Inventing the New Woman: Print Culture and Identity Politics During the Fin-de-Siecle.” Victorian Periodicals Review, vol. 31, no. 2, 1998, pp. 169-82.
“Unwelcome Truth.” Life, vol. 23, no. 600, 28 Jun. 1894, p. 423.
Upchurch, Thomas Adams. Historical Dictionary of the Gilded Age. Scarecrow Press, 2009.
Veblen, Thorstein. The Theory of the Leisure Class. Edited by Martha Banta, Oxford University Press, 2007.
Vicinus, Martha. “Introduction: The Perfect Victorian Lady.” Suffer and Be Still: Women in the Victorian Age. Edited by Martha Vicinus, Methuen & Co. Ltd., 1980, pp. vii-xv.
Wagner, Johanna M. “The Conventional and the Queer: Lily Bart, An Unlivable Ideal.” SubStance, vol. 45, no. 1, 2016, pp. 116-39.
Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299-313.
Warner, Sam Bass and Andrew H. Whittemore. American Urban Form: A Representative History. Drawings by Andrew H. Whittemore, The MIT Press, 2012.
Wells, Juliette. “Mothers of Chick Lit? Women Writers, Readers, and Literary History.” Chick Lit: The New Woman’s Fiction. Edited by Suzanne Ferriss and Mallory Young, Routledge, 2006, pp. 47-70.
Wharton, Edith. A Backward Glance. D. Appleton Century Company, 1934.
——. “A Little Girl’s New York.” 1938. The Age of Innocence: Authoritative Text, Contexts, Criticism. Edited by Candace Waid, W.W. Norton, 2003, pp. 232-48.
——. “Edith Wharton’s Introduction to the 1936 Edition of The House of Mirth.” The House of Mirth. Edited by Janet Beer and Elizabeth Nolan, Broadview Press Ltd., 2005, pp. 371-76.
——. Ethan Frome. Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1911.
——. French Ways and Their Meaning. D. Appleton and Company, 1919.
——. “In Argonne.” Fighting France. Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1918, pp. 43-90.
——. The Age of Innocence. 1920. Edited by Michael Nowlin, Broadview Press, 2002.
——. The Custom of the Country. 1913. Edited by Sarah Emsley, Broadview Press, 2008.
——. The House of Mirth. 1905. Edited by Janet Beer and Elizabeth Nolan, Broadview Press, 2005.
——. The Letters of Edith Wharton. Edited by R. W. B. Lewis and Nancy Lewis, Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1988.
——. “The Other Two.” The Collected Short Stories of Edith Wharton. Edited and introduced by R. W. B. Lewis, Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1968, pp. 380-96.
White, Barbara Anne. Edith Wharton: A Study of the Short Fiction. Twayne Publishers, 1991.
Wilson, Elizabeth. Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. 1985. I. B. Tauris, 2003.
——. “These New Components of the Spectacle: Fashion and Postmodernism.” Postmodernism and Society. Edited by Roy Boyne and Ali Rattansi, Macmillan, 1990, pp. 209-36.
Wolff, Cynthia Griffin. “Lily Bart and the Beautiful Death.” American Literature, Vol. 46, No. 1, 1974, pp. 16-40.
Woodward, Sophie. Material Methods: Researching and Thinking with Things. Sage, 2020.
Woodward, Sophie, and Tom Fisher. “Fashioning through Materials: Material Culture, Materiality and Processes of Materialization.” Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, Vol. 5, No. 1, 2014, pp. 3-23.
Zak, Deborah J. “Building the Female Body: Modern Technology and Techniques at Work in Twilight Sleep.” Memorial Boxes and Guarded Interiors: Edith Wharton and Material Culture. Edited by Gary Totten, The University of Alabama Press, 2007, pp. 111-32.