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Author:柯昭楠
Title:含棕櫚醯三胜肽-5與玫瑰葉幹細胞提取物精華液對皮膚保養功效之研究
Title (Eng.):A study on the skin care efficacy of a novel essence containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Rose Stem Cell’s extract Essence
Advisor:張聰民張聰民 author reflink
Oral Defense Committee:周怡真黃蕙君
oral defense date:2023-07-13
degree:Master
Institution:弘光科技大學
Department:化妝品應用研究所
Narrow Field:民生學門
Detailed Field:美容學類
Types of papers:Academic thesis/ dissertation
Publication Year:2023
Graduated Academic Year:111
language:Chinese
number of pages:70
keyword (chi):棕櫚醯三胜肽-5玫瑰葉幹細胞提取物精華液彈力參數肌膚含水率皮膚皺紋變化率
keyword (eng):Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5rose leaf stem cell’s extract essenceskin elasticity parameterskin hydration levelwrinkle change rat
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在化妝品市場中添加棕櫚醯三胜肽-5或是植物幹細胞成份的保養品,大都會宣稱具有減少細紋、並且能防止皮膚老化。然而截至目前為止,並未有科學研究指出添加棕櫚醯三胜肽-5或是植物幹細胞成分的保養品對肌膚保養的可靠證據。本論文研究目的,在於設計含有棕櫚醯三胜肽-5與玫瑰葉幹細胞萃取之穩定精華液配方,並且進行人體試驗以評估棕櫚醯三胜肽-5、玫瑰葉幹細胞提取物對肌膚可能的保養功效。
本論文研究公開徵求20位女性受試者(35-65歲女性)參與棕櫚醯三胜肽-5與玫瑰葉幹細胞提取物精華液的人體試驗,每日兩次塗抹精華液於整臉肌膚,每二週以多功能皮膚膚質檢測儀與皮膚膚質測定系統,測得肌膚彈力參數R2,肌膚含水量測試、皮膚皺紋測試、毛孔數測試、與斑點測試等,研究結果顯示20位受試者使用精華液八週後,彈力參數R2、肌膚含水量與皮膚皺紋測試百分數有增加的趨勢,此外毛孔數測試與斑點測試有減少的趨勢,即含棕櫚醯三胜肽-5與玫瑰葉幹細胞提取物精華液具有增進肌膚彈性、含水量與淡化細紋的功效,且同時也具有收斂毛孔與輕微淡斑之成效。
本論文研究設計添加棕櫚醯三胜肽-5與幹細胞提取物精華液配方,經實驗證實了具有抗老的功效,對於未來針對此兩項化妝品成分的配方開發與功效驗證,提供一定程度的學術參考價值,相信此種配方不會侷現於精華液品項,添加到面霜、面膜、化妝水等產品可能也會獲得很好的抗老成效。

In the cosmetics market, skincare products containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 or plant stem cell ingredients are often claimed to reduce fine lines and prevent skin aging. However, until now, there has been less scientific research to prove the reliable evidence of skincare benefits of adding Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 or plant stem cell ingredients to skincare products. The purpose of this study was to design a stable essence formula containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and rose leaf stem cells and conduct a human trial to evaluate the possible skincare efficacy of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and rose leaf stem cell’s extract on the skin.
This study recruited 20 female subjects, aged 35 to 65, who applied the tested essence twice daily to their entire face. Skin elasticity parameter R2, skin hydration level, wrinkle measurement, pore count, and spot test were measured every two weeks using a multifunctional skin quality detector and a skin quality measurement system. The results showed that after eight weeks of application the essence, the skin elasticity parameter R2, skin hydration level, and wrinkle improvement score tended to increase, while the pore count and spot test tended to decrease. Therefore, the Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and rose leaf stem cell extract-containing essence was found to have the effect of improving skin elasticity, hydration, and reducing fine lines, as well as the ability to decline pores and slightly lighten spots.
The study on adding Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and rose leaf stem cell’s extract essence formula has proven to have anti-aging effects, providing academic reference value for future development and efficacy verification of cosmetic formula containing these two ingredients. It’s predicted that application of the formula to other products such as face creams, masks, and toners would also achieve excellent anti-aging effects.

致謝 I
中文摘要 III
Abstract V
目錄 VII
圖目錄 IX
表目錄 X
壹、緒論 1
一、 抗老保養品市場趨勢 1
二、 皮膚老化因素 2
三、 棕櫚醯三胜肽-5 4
四、 幹細胞 8
五、 玻尿酸 12
六、 為何設計水溶性精華液配方 15
七、 研究動機 16
貳、材料與方法 17
一、 研究對象 17
二、 研究場域 17
三、 研究產品配置 18
四、 精華液配方安定性試驗與微生物檢驗 20
五、 本研究測試方法 22
六、 本研究測試儀器與方法 23

參、結果與討論 30
一、 研究結果 30
二、 皮膚彈力指數測試 38
三、 配方比例討論 38
四、 精華液配方親與性與脂溶性之考量 42
五、 測試受試樣本的選擇 43
肆、結論 44
伍、參考文獻 46

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