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研究生:李孟遠
研究生(外文):LI, MENG-YUAN
論文名稱:天然染布與立體剪裁的空間意境
論文名稱(外文):Spatial conception of Natural plant dyeing and 3D Cutting
指導教授:盧廷清盧廷清引用關係
指導教授(外文):LU,TING-CING
口試委員:許鳳玉徐秋宜
口試委員(外文):HU,FONG-YUSYU,CIOU-YI
口試日期:2014-01-13
學位類別:碩士
校院名稱:實踐大學
系所名稱:時尚與媒體設計研究所
學門:設計學門
學類:綜合設計學類
論文種類:學術論文
論文出版年:2014
畢業學年度:102
語文別:中文
論文頁數:128
中文關鍵詞:天然染
外文關鍵詞:Natural dyeing
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摘要

本論文以自身對生活文化的經驗,提出天然染色與服裝設計結合的實驗與創作可能,進而從文化與服裝及人體與空間的思考,品牌創造的可能性實踐。而天然染於中國早期古代文獻記載染料植物最早可溯至周朝。在周代〝染人〞又稱〝染草之官〞就是管理染色的職官,後歷代王朝更設有專門管理染色的機構,當時所用的染料、顏料即全是萃取自大自然的礦物與植物染料。
直到二十世紀初受西方工業影響逐漸引進化學染料,天然染色逐漸的被取代,緊接著科技產業興盛伴隨而來的就是大量工業化學汙染,而天然染在快速工業發展中漸被遺忘,而因應時代發展,大量污染的背後終有一個永續的和平時尚概念的再現與尋回原色的需求,從服裝創作的角度出發,從文化與工藝的角度探討服裝設計的創作與生產可能,達到永續的生活概念推廣,而本論文概念所闡述的「和平」,並不只意味著沒有戰爭 , 而是從文化的廣義層面解讀環境與人與服裝的依存關係 , 實行於天然染色與服裝創作的可能性。 反覆檢視傳統工藝的工序,選擇出各個順序以深度研究發展創作之變化的可能性 , 捨棄「化學」概念的發展實行服裝創作。
本論文將以天然染色傳統工藝所提出的『豆引』與染色之工法 , 與剪裁做可能性的配合 , 透過豆引,前後顏色深淺的變化與各式染法與剪裁的結合,將空間順與逆之間的結構關係透過各種天然色素(中藥、茶葉、草木)呈現各種套染或留白的空間意境。而在創作過程中,反思創作風格與剪裁的發展,從抽象潛意識的空間脈絡中就可表現風格與意涵,透過不同材料的表現,呈現材料與色素和剪裁的多重關係,推衍成服裝意象,進而思考一源多用之價值染材染後之『再應用』 大部分染料可重複萃取使用2~3次,最後將其曬乾燥的作為其他用途,或為下一次的原料成為養分,能回歸土地永續利用。台灣山野有許多植物適合用於草木天然染色,蒐集染材以『取其枝葉不傷其根莖』的環保訴求,將染色流程化、染色作業,與後置用途,透過品牌設計可季節性推出服裝色系商品,永續落實環保,從而再回歸到個人創作與精神理念的傳達,實踐創作永續。

ABSTRACT

In this thesis, their own experience of life and culture, natural dyeing and garment design proposed combination of experimental and creative possibilities, and then think about culture and clothing and body and space from brand to create the possibility of practice. The natural dye in the early ancient Chinese literature can be traced back to the earliest dye plants Zhou. In the Zhou Dynasty "into human" also known as "dyed grass officer" is the Official Management staining, even after the dynasties stained with specialized management agencies, when used in dyes, pigments that are all minerals extracted from nature and vegetable dyes. Until the early twentieth century by the impact of the gradual introduction of Western industrial chemical dyes, natural dyeing gradually be replaced, followed by the technology industry is thriving accompanied by a large number of industrial chemical pollution, and natural dyeing in the rapid industrial development gradually been forgotten, but in response to behind the development of the times, a lot of pollution and recovered eventually reproduce colors needs a sustainable peace in the concept of fashion, from clothing creative perspectives on the creation and production of fashion design and technology from a cultural point of view is possible, achieve sustainable promote the concept of life, and this paper describes the concept of "peace" does not only mean the absence of war, but the interpretation of the relationship between the environment and human interdependence and clothing from the broad cultural level, the implementation on the possibility of the creation of natural dyeing and garment . Cogitate traditional craft processes, in order to select the various possibilities in-depth study of the creative development and changes, abandon the development of "chemical" concept implementation costume creation.
The papers will be made by the traditional process of natural dyeing a "bean cited" construction method and dyed, and with the possibility of tailoring done through beans lead, before changing shades of color in combination with a variety of staining and cut the space along inverse relationship between the structure and presentation of the various sets of blank space dyed or mood through various natural pigments (medicine, tea, vegetation). In the creative process, reflect on the development of creative style and tailoring, from the abstract space of the subconscious can be expressive style context and meaning, through the performance of different materials, showing multiple relationships and tailoring materials and pigments, inferring imagery into clothing , and then think about the value of dye after transfection of a multi-purpose source of "re-use" most of the dye can be extracted using a repeated 2 or 3 times, the last of its sun-dried for other purposes, or to become raw material for the next nutrients, can return sustainable land use. Taiwan has many plants suitable for mountain vegetation natural dyeing, dyeing materials collected by "whichever foliage does not hurt its roots" environmental demands, the process of dyeing, dyeing operations, and post-use, through the launch of apparel brand designed to seasonal color goods, implement environmental sustainability, which then return to the concept of individual creativity and spirit communication, creative and sustainable practices.
目錄

摘要

第壹章 緒論………………………………………………………………………………………………………….1

1.1 研究動機……………………………………………………………………………………………………….2
1.2 研究目的……………………………………………………………………………………………………….3
1.3 文獻探討……………………………………………………………………………………………………….5
1.4 架構演化……………………………………………………………………………………………………….6

第貳章 創作概念的延伸……………………………………………………………………………………….7

2.1 豆引.衍生變化………………………………………………………………………………………………8
2.2 網版.蠟染、糊染.圖形的試驗……………………………………………….…………………..17
2.3 茶葉、中藥、草木的素染與套染………………………………………………………………..23

第參章 立體剪裁與天然色的形塑實驗…………………………………………………………….31

3.1天然染與有機棉的剪裁…..………………………………………………………………………...32
3.2天然染與棉紗的型染實驗.……………………………………………………………..………….43
3.3幾何型体的服裝結構到天然染......................................................................58

第肆章 複合創作………………………….…………………………………………………………………….73

4.2 染 . 印 . 形 . 繪 到立體剪裁………………………………………………..………..……..74
4.1天然染+立體剪裁的空間意境……….…………………………………………………………...86

第伍章 結論………………………….……………………………………….…………………………………103

5.1 檢討天然染色於流行服裝設計的優缺及應用可能.........………………………...104
5.2感知與延伸……..…..…………………………………………………………………………………….108

參考文獻………………………………………………………………………………………………………………109

附錄........………………………………………………………………………………………………………………110


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