臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

健康的頭髮是相當重要的，想要有美麗的外貌，髮型佔有很重要的角色，而要有漂亮的髮型，髮質是很重要的，髮質的健康就像擁有健康的膚質是一樣重要的，然而影響髮質的因素有很多，釵h研究團隊開始研發出可以改善髮質的產品。然而，髮質受損的因素究竟為何？又是何種性質會造成髮質呈現出不同狀態？
本研究利用以化學破壞（漂色）及護髮乳對頭髮物性造成之影響為主軸，將漂白前後及漂白前後經護髮，分別以光透過式量測儀，觀察其髮徑變化情形。另外使用毛髮物性評估儀，以拉速測試法，檢測頭髮之強度、變形量變化情形，來探討頭髮之物理性質變化。
結果顯示頭髮髮徑，經漂色之化學破壞後，單根頭髮的髮徑與未經化學破壞的髮徑有明顯的變化(90~110 ± 10 μm → 80~90 ± 10 μm)，由漂色前後髮徑比較發現漂色後之髮徑有變細的現象，頭髮在漂色前之髮徑經由護髮後有明顯的變化(90~110 ± 10 μm → 100~110 ± 10 μm)，但在漂色後之頭髮經護髮和未護髮其髮徑變化情形，發現頭髮受化學破壞後，會影響護髮產品的吸收，在髮徑的上並無顯著變化。另外，拉速測試結果顯示頭髮變形量Strain(%)，漂色前後之頭髮變形量，在拉速(12.5mm/min)下比較漂色前後頭髮之變形量變化(80%→60%)，顯示出漂色前強度比漂色後強度大。漂色後經護髮前後之頭髮變形量(62%→70%)，其差異性明顯可看出，在護髮乳的使用後對於漂色後的頭髮強度有明顯增加的效果。
頭髮的強壯度，經漂色後發現經由化學性破壞後之頭髮較容易斷裂，當我們比較漂色前後及護髮前後之拉力,也發現雖然漂色後未經護髮較漂色後經護髮的強壯，但漂色後經護髮還是會比未漂色經護髮的易斷裂，顯示頭髮結構物理特性，較會受化學性破壞後所影響。
1. 漂白過程中過度反覆梳洗及漂白劑破壞頭髮最外層之表皮毛鱗片，造成物理性及化學性之傷害，造成髮徑變小，且毛鱗層受損無法整齊的排列和縮合，影響護髮產品之效果，由此知髮質的受損程度會影響護髮 產品之吸收。
2. 漂色過程頭髮利用氧化將皮質層中大量的色素退去，造成角蛋白纖維(keratin fiber)的損傷，因此使頭髮顯示脆而無彈性，且易斷裂的特性。經護髮處理後頭髮強度有明顯增加的效果。因此，証實漂色及護髮處理會影響頭髮結構物理特性。
3. 比較頭髮經化學破壞後之髮徑及拉力關係:
a. 化學性破壞之漂色，可損害皮質層，打斷雙硫鍵，造成頭髮結構受損，並裂解麥拉寧色素，但又提供能量強化部分鍵結，使頭髮褪色變黃而脆，延伸率及破壞點開始迅速衰減，顯示頭髮結構中大部份雙硫鍵，已被激發至極限，只要稍增加拉力，雙硫鍵即被瓦解。也會造成髮徑變小，使頭髮物理特性，呈現彈性減弱且易斷現象。
b. 護髮產品的使用，會因產品成分的不同影響其結果，這也是將來值得再深入探討的，研究中顯示，護髮產品的使用確實對不論是髮徑或是頭髮的強壯度有增強的作用，但因未漂色後的頭髮其毛鱗層受損嚴重，會影響到護髮產品的幼纂A因為當毛鱗層受損後會產生不平整無法密合的狀態，所以其產品無法保留住，對頭髮結構較無影響，使頭髮拉力之物理性質會對髮徑改變影響較小。
發現結果，可提供當使用染髮破壞指標及護髮後成效指標，藉本研 究之量化數據，做為台灣頭髮未來開發髮用化妝品一個較佳可適當保護頭髮的參考指標。

It is very important with a healthy hair, because if we want has a beautlful looking, the hairdo occupies very important role on it. The beautiful hairdo, hair quality plays an important role on it. There are a lot of factors influencing hair quality; in order to make one self have good hair qualities. Many researchers had begun to research and develop the products that can improve the hair quality.
However, what is the factor outcome that made hair quality damaged? And which kind of property causes the hair quality to demonstrate different states? In our research use chemical agent to destroys hair and protects the influence by the hair-cream. The experimential design we use bleaching hair, after and it is before being bleach hair care, after take care of hair, last appearance with light type separately, observe and send and change the situation directly.
In addition, we use the hair physical proterty assessment to test the pulling force of hair, measure the pulling force (surrender one, destroy some, coefficient of elongation) of the hair change the situation, to study the physical property change of the hair.
The result show that, the same bunch by behind chemical destruction which bleaches the color, they’re having obvious changes directly with destroying by chemistry to the foot-path of single hair which camair with sigle hair.
In addition, pulling force test result degrees strong of hair, by bleaching color, we take the same bunches, find that getting chemical hair after the destruction, rupture while being easy. When we compare the pulling force of the hair of bleaching before or after with or without hair protect, the result shown that structural physical characteristic of the hair, will relatively be influenced after chemical destruction.
Compare sending the footpath and pulling force relation after chemistry is destroyed of hair:
(a)Bleaching the color of chemical destruction, can damage the cortex layer, interrupt disulfide bound, cause the hair structure damaged, and cracked melanin, but make the hair fade and is yellow and fragile, the coefficient of elongation and destroying and clicking beginning to decay rapidly, show that the disulfide bound of the hair, already been stimulated to limit, so long as increase pulling force slightly, the disulfide bound has been disintegrated. Also cause diminish directly, enable hair physical characteristic, appear elasticity subside and easy disconnected phenomenon.
(b)Use of hair care products, will get different result by change of composition of the products, this worth, and probe into thoroughly in the future too. In our resrarch, use of hair care products can to hair foot-path or strong degree of hair have function strengthened really, but the hair its one scale''s storey after not bleaching the color is damaged and serious, will influence the efficiency of hair care products, because when scale layer become not level the state that can''t be closely fitted after being damaged, so product its unable to keep, and influence relatively to hair structure, make hair physical property of pulling force will change, influence relatively little directly taking place.

目　錄
中文摘要…………………………………………………………………… i
英文摘要…………………………………………………………………… iv
誌 謝…………………………………………………………………… vi
目　　錄…………………………………………………………………… vii
圖 目 錄…………………………………………………………………… ix
表 目 錄…………………………………………………………………… xi
第一章　緒論……………………………………………………………… 1
第二章　文獻回顧………………………………………………………… 3
2-1 頭髮型態結構……………………………………………… 3
2-1-1頭髮物理性質……………………………………… 12
2-1-2頭髮化學性質……………………………………… 21
2-2 影響髮質的因素探討……………………………………… 24
2-3 頭髮評估法………………………………………………… 30
2-3-1 髮徑測試儀………………………………………… 30
2-3-2 毛髮物性評估儀…………………………………… 31
第三章　實驗材料、儀器及方法………………………………………… 34
3-1 研究流程…………………………………………………… 34
3-2 材料………………………………………………………… 35
3-3 實驗方法…………………………………………………… 36




第四章　結果……………………………………………………………… 42
4-1 髮徑變化…………………………………………………… 42
4-1-1 漂色前後之髮徑變化……………………………… 42
4-1-2 漂色前護髮前後之髮徑變化……………………… 46
4-1-3 漂色後護髮前後之髮徑變化……………………… 50
4-1-4 漂色前後護髮後之髮徑變化……………………… 53
4-1-5 漂色前未護髮與漂色後護髮之髮徑變化……… 56
4-1-6 漂色前護髮與漂色後未護髮之髮徑變化……… 59
4-2 頭髮之強度變化…………………………………………… 62
4-2-1 漂色前後之強度變化……………………………… 65
4-2-2 漂色前護髮前後之強度變化……………………… 68
4-2-3 漂色後護髮前後之強度變化……………………… 70
4-2-4 漂色前後護髮後之強度變化……………………… 72
4-2-5 漂色前未護髮與漂色後護髮之強度變化………… 74
4-2-6 漂色前護髮與漂色後未護髮之強度變化………… 75
4-3 頭髮之變形量變化………………………………………… 76
4-3-1 漂色前後之變形量變化…………………………… 76
4-3-2 漂色前護髮前後之變形量變化…………………… 79
4-3-3 漂色後護髮前後之變形量變化…………………… 81
4-3-4 漂色前後護髮後之變形量變化…………………… 83
4-3-5 漂色前未護髮與漂色後護髮之變形量變化……… 85
4-3-6 漂色前護髮與漂色後未護髮之變形量變化……… 87
第五章　討論……………………………………………………………… 89
參考文獻…………………………………………………………………… 92
附 件 一…………………………………………………………………… 95
附 件 二…………………………………………………………………… 103

圖目錄
圖2-1 頭髮生長週期…………………………………………………… 4
圖2-2 頭髮型態結構…………………………………………………… 4
圖2-3 頭髮結構………………………………………………………… 6
圖2-4 頭髮細部結構…………………………………………………… 7
圖2-4 頭髮毛鱗層細部結構…………………………………………… 8
圖2-5 ㄛ衖陰袹擉�外力轉相為β相摺板晶體………………………… 9
圖2-6 頭髮膨潤度……………………………………………………… 14
圖2-7 頭髮應力與應變曲線圖………………………………………… 15
圖2-8 頭髮彎度試驗…………………………………………………… 17
圖2-9 光透過式量測儀器……………………………………………… 30
圖2-10 毛髮物性評估儀………………………………………………… 31
圖2-11 頭髮之應力-應變曲線圖………………………………………… 32
圖2-12 單根纖維測量曲線圖…………………………………………… 33
圖3-1 頭髮束…………………………………………………………… 36
圖3-2 漂色後的頭髮…………………………………………………… 38
圖3-3 髮徑測量………………………………………………………… 40
圖3-4 頭髮強度測量…………………………………………………… 41
圖4-1 漂色前後髮根之髮徑變化……………………………………… 44
圖4-2 漂色前後髮幹之髮徑變化……………………………………… 44
圖4-3 漂色前後髮梢之髮徑變化……………………………………… 45
圖4-4 漂色前護髮前後髮根之髮徑變化……………………………… 47
圖4-5 漂色前護髮前後髮幹之髮徑變化……………………………… 48
圖4-6 漂色前護髮前後髮梢之髮徑變化……………………………… 48
圖4-7 漂色後護髮前後髮根之髮徑變化……………………………… 51
圖4-8 漂色後護髮前後髮幹之髮徑變化……………………………… 51
圖4-9 漂色後護髮前後髮梢之髮徑變化……………………………… 52
圖4-10 漂色前後護髮後髮根之髮徑變化……………………………… 53
圖4-11 漂色前後護髮後髮幹之髮徑變化……………………………… 54
圖4-12 漂色前後護髮後髮梢之髮徑變化……………………………… 54
圖4-13 漂色前未護髮與漂色後護髮後髮根之髮徑變化……………… 56
圖4-14 漂色前未護髮與漂色後護髮後髮幹之髮徑變化……………… 57
圖4-15 漂色前未護髮與漂色後護髮後髮梢之髮徑變化……………… 57
圖4-16 漂色前護髮後與漂色後未護髮髮根之髮徑變化……………… 59
圖4-17 漂色前護髮後與漂色後未護髮髮幹之髮徑變化……………… 60
圖4-18 漂色前護髮後與漂色後未護髮髮梢之髮徑變化……………… 60
圖4-19 漂色前後之強度變化…………………………………………… 63
圖4-20 漂色後護髮前後之強度變化…………………………………… 66
圖4-21 漂色前護髮前後之強度變化…………………………………… 69
圖4-22 漂色前後護髮後之強度變化…………………………………… 70
圖4-23 漂色前未護髮與漂色後護髮後之強度變化…………………… 72
圖4-24 漂色前護髮後與漂色後未護髮之強度變化…………………… 74
圖4-25 漂色前後之變形量變化………………………………………… 77
圖4-26 漂色前護髮前後之變形量變化………………………………… 80
圖4-27 漂色後護髮前後之變形量變化………………………………… 82
圖4-28 漂色前後護髮後之變形量變化………………………………… 84
圖4-29 漂色前未護髮與漂色後護髮後之變形量變化………………… 85
圖4-30 漂色前護髮後與漂色後未護髮之變形量變化………………… 87

表目錄
表2-1 頭髮細部結構表………………………………………………… 11
表2-2 頭髮彈性模數及溼度…………………………………………… 13
表2-3 頭髮斷裂點及溫度……………………………………………… 13
表2-4 頭髮物理性質…………………………………………………… 20
表2-5 頭髮中蛋白質胺基酸組成……………………………………… 21
表2-6 頭髮化性………………………………………………………… 23
表3-1 頭髮樣品製備…………………………………………………… 37
表3-2 護髮產品編號表………………………………………………… 39
表3-3 樣品製備編號表………………………………………………… 39
表4-1 漂色前之髮徑…………………………………………………… 42
表4-2 漂色後之髮徑…………………………………………………… 43
表4-3 漂色前後髮徑變化之顯著性差異檢定………………………… 45
表4-4 漂色前經護髮之髮徑…………………………………………… 46
表4-5 漂色前護髮前後髮徑變化之顯著性差異檢定………………… 49
表4-6 漂色後經護髮之髮徑…………………………………………… 50
表4-7 漂色後護髮前後髮徑變化之顯著性差異檢定………………… 52
表4-8 漂色前後經護髮髮徑變化之顯著性差異檢定………………… 55
表4-9 漂色前未護髮與漂色後經護髮髮徑變化之顯著性差異檢定… 58
表4-10 漂色前經護髮與漂色後未護髮髮徑變化之顯著性差異檢定… 61
表4-11 漂色前之強度變化……………………………………………… 62
表4-12 漂色後之強度變化……………………………………………… 63
表4-13 漂色前後強度變化之顯著性差異檢定………………………… 64
表4-14 漂色前護髮後之強度變化……………………………………… 66
表4-15 漂色前護髮前後強度變化之顯著性差異檢定………………… 67
表4-16 漂色後護髮後之強度變化……………………………………… 68
表4-17 漂色後經護髮前後強度變化之顯著性差異檢定……………… 69
表4-18 漂色前後經護髮強度變化之顯著性差異檢定………………… 71
表4-19 漂色前未護髮與漂色後護髮強度變化之顯著性差異檢定…… 73
表4-20 漂色前護髮與漂色後未護髮強度變化之顯著性差異檢定…… 75
表4-21 漂色前之變形量變化…………………………………………… 76
表4-22 漂色後之變形量變化…………………………………………… 77
表4-23 漂色前後變形量變化之顯著性差異檢定……………………… 78
表4-24 漂色前護髮後之變形量變化…………………………………… 79
表4-25 漂色前護髮前後變形量變化之顯著性差異檢定……………… 80
表4-26 漂色後護髮後之變形量變化…………………………………… 81
表4-27 漂色後護髮前後變形量變化之顯著性差異檢定……………… 82
表4-28 漂色前後經護髮變形量變化之顯著性差異檢定……………… 84
表4-29 漂色前未護髮與漂色後護髮變形量變化之顯著性差異檢定… 86
表4-30 漂色前護髮與漂色後未護髮變形量變化之顯著性差異檢定… 88

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