臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

在紡織市場中，再生纖維素纖維Lyocell一直為大家所喜愛，其具有獨特的反撥感、涼快感、懸垂性等優點，尤其經染整加工後會有開纖現象，所產生的桃皮感為大家所喜愛。一般染整廠加工法為使用機械式摩擦開纖，即布疋在染缸內繩狀運轉，利用溫度、鹼劑、摩擦力、時間等條件控制所產生，再施行酵素減量將微纖去除，但缺點是加工品質不易控制、產量不大、成本高。
本研究以Standard Tencel®利用開幅式加工，以鹼處理(NaOH)及MgCl2•6H2O分解纖維素方式，行化學式開纖，使加工品質穩定、成本下降，染整廠產能增加，同時開發成衣簡單水洗用布。
此篇研究的目的是在染整工業中使用不同濃度的NaOH溶液在拉伸下做絲光處理，然後使用MgCl2•H2O在高溫下分解出HCl方式將纖維破壞，並使用多種檢驗法，分析試驗的結果。結果發現Tencel®經NaOH處理後的非結晶區被破壞，導致順向度增加及強度、回潮率下降的改變。觀察到Tencel®纖維經過退漿、定型及NaOH處理後，吸熱峰會由356℃增加到361℃及368℃，顯示順向度增加，但強力有下降現象，而且濃度越高越剛硬，絲光加工無法如Cotton在濃度22B’e~24B’e中進行，建議在13B’e~15B’e中加工。
而再以MgCl2•6H2O處理時，可以得到開纖效果，但必須搭配絲光加工及其後的一般水洗加工，經由搓揉將水解後的纖維素去除，同時摩擦產生極短纖毛，使織物具有如機械式開纖的霜白感桃皮細緻外觀。
MgCl2•6H2O開纖的條件依濃度、溫度、時間而有所差別，但需以開纖情形、毛羽及強力為考量基礎。此報告最佳的條件為當絲光加工在13 B’e時，氯化鎂(MgCl2•6H2O)濃度在20克/升、溫度180℃、時間120sec時最好。

In the textile industry, man made fiber, Lyocell is one on the top of the list. It has unique bouncy, cool & drape hand touch like no other material could be. Especially the peach skin effect that form by dyeing and mechanical washing, so called fibrillation process. The tradition method of fibrillation is done by mechanical washing, fabric in rope form of shapes rotate consistently in dyeing lot. With certain amount of soda, degrees of temperature, friction level and timing conditions to control the production. Final step is enzyme washing which elevated the extra / left over fibers the caused while fibrillation. However, the tradition method has been difficult to control the quality, has limited production capacity and higher cost wise.
This research is base on open width production by using NaOH & MgCl2•6H2O to dissolve fibers. The advantage is to stabilize the quality consistently, lower the loss & cost, increase the production capacity and develop finishing for garment washing.
The purpose of this research is focusing on dyeing industry, using different level of alkalinity of NaOH dissolving liquid under mercerizing finishing process with tension. Then apply with MgCl2•6H2O hemolysic HC1 method under high temperature which will cause fiber break down. Then apply with different examination and testing, and came up with result of when Tencel® experience NaOH finishing, amorphous region will be damaged and the changes of increasing of orientation but decreasing of fabric strength & moisture rate. Observation of Tencel® under desizing, setting & NaOH finishing, the a Peak will be increased from 356℃ to range of 361℃ & 368℃, it appears that when orientation increased, the fabric strength will be decreased. And the higher the concentration the stiffer hand it will gets.
The mercerize process could not be same as cotton fabric with 22B’e~24B’e, suggested alkalinity as 13B’e~15B’e. And with MgCl2•6H2O finishing, the fibrillation could be achieve, but has to coordinate with mercerize & washing afterwards as a combination. The elevation of dissolved Cellulose is done by light scrub or abrasion & friction under washing. At the same time, extremely fine & short fiber will be produced. And now the fabric has snow white & peach skin effect just the same as the fibrillation done by mechanical washing. (Tradition way of fibrillation)
The fibrillation requirement & conditions of MgCl2•6H2O had to depends on the concentration , temperature & timing. It will had different results of level of peach skin & strength. So the key point is to consider the balancing between peach skin & fabric strength as basis. The conclusion for this research is that the most ideal combination as followed, when the mercerizing is at 13B’e, concentration of MgCl2•6H2O at 20Gram/Liter & temperature at 180℃ with 120 seconds.

目 錄

第一章 緒論…………………………………………………………1
1.1 前言………………………………………………………………1
1.2 研究動機…………………………………………………………2
1.2.1染整流程……………………………………………………….2
1.2.2 NaOH鹼處理與氯化鎂加工原理………………………………3
第二章 介紹…………………………………………………………5
2.1 Tencel®分類……………………………………………………5
2.2 製造方法……………………………………………..………6
2.3 Tencel®的紡絲…………………………………………………8
2.4 Tencel®與其他纖維物性之比較………………………………8
2.5纖維構造…………………………………………………………9
2.6一般Viscose與Tencel®膨潤構造之比較……………………10
2.7 Tencel®的微纖化……………………………………………11
2.8維纖-酵素處理、酵素、染色後之外觀………………………12
2.9 織物經微纖、酵素、染色後外觀……………………………13
第三章 實驗………………………………………………………15
3.1 實驗藥品………………………………………………………15
3.2 實驗材料………………………………………………………15
3.3 實驗設備與儀器………………………………………………15
3.3.1 實驗設備…………………………………………………..15
3.3.2檢驗儀器……………………………………………………16
3.4 實驗方法………………………………………………………26
3.4.1 流程…………………………………………………………26
3.4.2絲光處理條件……………………………………………….26
3.4.3氯化鎂處理………………………………………………….26
第四章 實驗結果與討論…………………………………………27
4.1 絲光處理後分析………………………………………………27
4.1.1 DSC分析……………………………………………………27
4.1.2 強度分析……………………………………………………29
4.1.3 回潮率分析…………………………………………………30
4.1.4 表觀濃度值分析……………………………………………31
4.1.5 織物剛硬度分析……………………………………………33
4.1.6 SEM顯微鏡分析……………………………………………34
4.2 氯化鎂處理……………………………………………………38
4.2.1 強度分析……………………………………………………38
4.2.2 小角度X光(XRD)散射………………………………………39
4.2.3 SEM顯微鏡分析……………………………………………42
第五章 結論………………………………………………………49
第六章 參考文獻…………………………………………………50

參考文獻

書籍
[1] 潘毅鈞， TENCEL的加工技術，潘毅鈞教授，2000。
[2] 吳文演，新世代環保性纖維素纖維，1999。
[3] 陳美蘭，精練與漂白工程，1989年，91~97頁。
[4] 經濟部工業局，新纖維素纖維染整技術研討會，1999年。
[5] Kusters CO,LTD，Kusters/DyStar CPB Presentation，April 2003。
[6] 吳文演，高科技新功機能性纖維材料與應用，2004年，41、48~55頁。
[7] 吳文演，高科技紡織品，2004年，48~55頁。
[8] 鄧嬿娥著，國璋出版社印行，纖維化學，P.92。
[9] 周学良主编，化学工业出版社，常用试剂与高纯物，P.94。
[10] AATCC TECHNICAL MANUAL of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists，2000。

期刊論文
[11] 吳偉欽，“Lyocell纖維的發展趨勢及染整加工技術的差異化”，染化雜誌，Vol.172,1991。
[12] X.Colom and F. Carrillo , Crystallinity change in lyocell and viscose-type fibres by caustic treatment. European Polymer Journal,Volume 40,Issue 9(2004),Page 2229-2234。
[13] X.Colom and F. Carrillo , Structural FTIR analysis and thermal characterization of lyocell and viscose-type fibres. European Polymer Journal,Volume 40,Issue 9(2004),Page 2229-2234。
[14] 廖盛焜、廖美英、陳錫民及王真呈，“以奈米水進行絲光對棉之影響”。
[15] 鄭文雄，“Tencel的染色加工與商品應用”，染化雜誌，Vol.168,1998。