臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

21 世紀，天然營養護膚品將成為寵兒，科學家將動植物的精華提
取,或將牛奶、血清、海洋元素、礦物質、果蔬汁液等加入到護膚保
養品中，成為人們追求天然美容的新趨勢。
中草藥美容作為中國傳統醫藥學，近年來在國外受到極大的關
注，國際上流行的一些天然美容方法就來源於中國的傳統中草藥技
術。隨著國外先進設備引進，傳統中草藥的萃取技術大大改進，中草
藥全面走向美容市場就指日可待了。由於有效成本來自天然草本植
物，不含重金屬、激素、抗生素，屬於綠色環保化妝品。中草藥美容
化妝品正成為21 世紀美容化妝品發展的趨勢，將為越來越多的崇尚
自然、關注“美麗與健康”的人們所接受。
因此本研究特別挑選幾種中草藥、茶葉、水果及水果果皮種籽等
廢棄物，其中包含六神花、山芙蓉、甜茶、刺梨、榴槤內皮、榴槤外
刺及龍眼籽，經微波萃取水萃方式提取萃取物，進行抗氧化力及美白
效果的篩選。
結果顯示，經過各種抗氧化以及美白實驗後，發現清除DPPH．
自由基效果、清除ABTS‧+自由基效果及總酚含量測定最高皆為刺梨
萃取物；以 pUC 119 DNA 及 λ-Hind III marker DNA 電泳評估抗氧
化能力效果最好為刺梨及山芙蓉萃取物；抑制Tyrosinase 效果最好為六神花萃取物。
最後，將實驗結果實際應用在化妝品配方中，評估體外試驗結果
與產品實際運用效果之差異性，結果顯示刺梨萃取物及山芙蓉萃取物
其安全性高故未來可開發在添加於化妝品中作為抗氧化（抗老化）的
活性成分，而六神花萃取物則適合開發為美白功效的成分。

The 21st century, the natural nutrition will become a favorite of
skin-care products, scientists will extract the essence of plants and
animals, or milk, serum, marine elements, minerals, fruit and vegetable
juices and other liquid added to the skin care products and become the
people''s pursuit of natural beauty new trend.
Chinese herbal medicine as a traditional Chinese medicine in recent
years by a great deal of concern abroad, a number of internationally
popular method of natural beauty comes from traditional Chinese herbs
technology. With the introduction of foreign advanced equipment, the
extraction of traditional Chinese herbal medicine significantly improved
overall direction of Chinese herbal medicine is just around the corner of
the beauty market. As the active ingredients from natural herbs, free of
heavy metals, hormones, antibiotics, cosmetics are green. Chinese herbal
cosmetics become 21st century cosmetics trend in the development of
more and more respect for nature, concern about the "beauty and health"
accepted.
Therefore this study has identified several Chinese herbal medicines,
tea, fruits and seeds, such as waste fruit peel, which contains Spilanthes
acmella（L.）Murr., Rosa Toxburghii Tratt.F., Hibiscus taiwanensis Hu.,
Rubusoside, endothelial durian, durian skin after Microwave Extraction
of water-extractable manner extracts for antioxidant activity and the
effect of whitening filter.As the results showed, after whitening and anti-oxidation
experiments, we found that the effect of remove DPPH‧ free radicals and
ABTS‧+ free radicals and the content of total phenols were highest
extract Rosa Toxburghii Tratt.F.; With pUC 119 DNA and λ-Hind III
marker DNA electrophoresis to assess antioxidant ability, Hibiscus
taiwanensis Hu. and Rosa Toxburghii Tratt.F. were better; in the
inhibition of Tyrosinase, Spilanthes acmella（L.）Murr. was the best.
Finally, used the actual experimental results in cosmetic formulations
to assess the differences of in vitro test results and the practical
application of products, the results showed that the extracts of Rosa
Toxburghii Tratt.F. and Hibiscus taiwanensis Hu can be developed to add
in cosmetics as an antioxidant (anti-aging) of the active ingredient
because of its safety in future, and the extracts of Spilanthes acmella（L.）
Murr. are suitable for the development of ingredients for whitening effect.

碩士學位考試委員會審定書…………………………………………….I
碩士論文全文電子檔案上網授權書……………………………….…...II
謝誌………………………………………………………………..……III
中文摘要…………………………………………………………..……IV
英文摘要………………………………………………………….…….VI
目錄………………………………………………………………...…VIII
圖目錄……………………………………………………………........XII
表目錄………………………………………………………………...XIV
縮寫表…………………………………………………………..…......XV
第一章 緒論
第一節 前言……………………………………………………..………1
第二節 傳統中草藥的研究發展現………………………………..……4
第三節 研究動機與目的…………………………………………..……5
第二章 文獻整理
第一節 自由基…………………………………………………….…….7
一、皮膚老化生理現象..…………………………………….….….7
二、自由基的介紹與對生物體的傷害…………………………..…9
三、生物體內的保護系統..……………………………….……….13
四、皮膚抗氧化系統介紹…………………………………………14
第二節 美白介紹…………………………………………….………...19
一、 皮膚膚色形成因素…………………………………………19
二、 美白機轉…………………………………………………….21
三、 膚色的類型與測量.................................................................24
第三章 實驗材料與方法
第一節 植物介紹………………………………………………………26
第二節 實驗架構………………………………………………………34
一、 實驗材料…………………………………………………….35
二、 儀器設備…………………………………………………….38
第三節 實驗方法…………………………………………………..…..40
一、 中草藥之微波萃取方法…………………………………….40
二、 總酚含量測定……………………………………………….42
三、 清除DPPH‧
自由基能力測定………………………………44
四、 清除ABTS+．陽離子自由基實驗...........................................46
五、 體外抑制酪胺酸酶實驗……………………...…………......49
六、 以DNA 電泳評估自由基引發DNA 損傷之防護作用...….51
七、 細胞培養方法…………………………………………….....53
八、 細胞存活率實驗（MTT assay）…………………………...57
九、 植物萃取液對小鼠黑色素瘤細胞之毒性試驗…………….59
十、 配方調製及活性評估……………………………………….60
十一、 配方在人體之貼布試驗……………………….………….64
十二、 配方在人體之有效性評估………………………………..65
第四章 結果
第一節 總酚含量測定之結果…………………………………………67
一、 Gallic acid之總酚含量標準曲線………………..….……....67
二、 植物萃取液之總酚含量………………………………….…68
第二節 抗氧化測試………………….………………………….……..69
一、 清除DPPH‧自由基結果…………………………….…….…69
二、 清除ABTS+‧自由基結果……………………………..……..73
三、自由基誘導 DNA 損傷之保護試驗結果………………..…..76
第三節 美白測試………………………………………………………83
一、 體外測定抑制Mushroom Tyosinase 結果……….………....83
第四節 細胞毒性測試………………………………...………....…….87
一、 細胞存活率測試（MTT assay）……..………………….….87
第五節 配方調製.....................………..………………………....…….90
一、配方調製之活性評估結果……………………………………90
二、配方調製之貼布試驗結果…………………………………...103
第六節 人體有效性試驗...........……………………..………....….....109
一、以色差計評估受測者膚質.......................................................109
二、以全臉膚質診斷儀評估受測者膚質.......................................113
三、以黑色素含量測定儀評估受測者膚質...................................118
四、以水分含量測定儀評估受測者膚質.......................................119
第五章 討論.......... ….………………………………………..…..120
第六章 結論………..…………………………………..…………122
第七章 參考文獻……………………………………..…..…..…124

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