臺灣博碩士論文加值系統

從近幾年的化粧品市場來看，天然化粧品無疑將成為人們消費的趨勢。天然化粧品主要為天然之萃取物，及不含或極少含有人工合成的原料，能減少對皮膚造成刺激性損傷，更符合天然、低危害、健康等訴求。
本研究選擇台南地區特色植物之蓮屬荷花 (Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn.)、睡蓮屬藍花 (Nymphaea caerulea)、睡蓮屬黃花 (Nymphaea mexicana Zucc.)，以不同萃取方法及不同溶劑萃取，並測試其抗氧化、美白、細胞毒性、UV吸收光譜、抗菌、防曬係數(SPF) 等實驗，進而選出活性較佳之萃取物作為化粧品原料。
結果顯示，在抗氧化活性測試部分，以植物 TB 溶劑 50% E 萃取方法 M 最佳；清除 DPPH．自由基 SC50：3.8 μg/mL ；清除 ABTS+．自由基 SC50：2 μg/mL ；總酚含量 516.73 mg of GAE/g；pUC 119 DNA 電泳保護在濃度 1 mg/mL 保護率 70.63 % ；抑制 Tyrosinase 測試，以植物 TB 溶劑 W 萃取方法 H 最佳，IC50： 0.6 mg/mL；細胞存活率在濃度 10、50 μg/mL皆有 60 % 以上；抑菌試驗方面以 植物 TB 溶劑 50% E 萃取方法 H 對於抑制痤瘡桿菌最佳，其抑菌圈為 25 mm。
防曬測試結果首先以紫外線/可見光分光光度計評估將天然物萃取物分別添加於防曬成分 Octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) 溶液中，並掃描其波長 200-400 nm 的吸收光譜圖，其中以植物 TB 溶劑 50% E 萃取方法 M、H 最佳，可增加 Parsol MCX 溶液在 310 nm 之吸收度最為明顯，提升值分別為 0.431、0.489，本研究選用 Parsol MCX 為主要防曬霜之防曬成分並添加具抗氧化之天然萃取物進行產品之 SPF 測試，以植物 TB 溶劑 50% E 萃取方法 M 之4% 配方效果最佳，其 SPF 值則由 16.23 提升至 24.34 結果顯示具有抗氧化力之天然物萃取物，可以提升防曬霜的 SPF 值。
根據本實驗各種結果可推知，以植物 TB 溶劑 50% E 萃取方法 M 活性最佳，結果可提供未來開發化粧品之相關資訊及抗老化、抑菌、防曬、美白等化粧品之應用。

In recent years, the cosmetics of natural will become a consumer trend in the market. Natural cosmetics from naturally occurring plant derived, containing no or very few synthetic compounds can reduce the irritation caused by damage to the skin, more natural, low-risk, demands for health.
This study use the plant in Tainan district characteristics Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn., Nymphaea caerulea, Nymphaea mexicana Zucc., different extraction methods and solvent extraction, and to test its antioxidant, whitening, cytotoxicity, UV absorption spectrum, antibacterial, SPF etc. Then, selecte can be used as cosmetic raw materials of natural extracts.
The results showed that the extraction of TB(50% E)microwave showed the minimum scavenge concentration in DPPH radical assay SC50：3.8 μg/mL ; the extraction of TB(50% E)microwave showed the minimum scavenge concentration in trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity assay SC50：2 μg/mL ; in total phenol content assay, the extractions of TB(50% E)microwave showed the highest-level value 516.73 mg of GAE/g ; the extraction of TB(50% E)microwave showed the highest-level value protection of pUC 119 DNA at 1mg/mL concentration 70.63%；TB(W)microwave has the best tyrosinase inhibition ,IC50： 0.6 mg/mL；cell viability all over sixty percent at 10、50 μg/mL ；TB(50% E)heating has the best antibacterial of Propionibacterium acnes 25 mm.
The results of sunscreen effect showed that the extraction of natural products could promote the absorbance of Parsol MCX solution at 310 nm, and the extraction of TB(50% E) microwave and heating are the most effective (promotion value were 0.431、0.489); the portion extraction of natural products could not promote the absorbance of Parsol 1789 solution at 357 nm, the effect was lower than Parsol MCX. In SPF assay, sunscreen added antioxidant activity of natural products could promote SPF (16.23 to 24.34).
Based on our results, the TB(50% E)microwave has the well biological activity,and these information can provide the future development of cosmetics to anti-aging, antibacterial, sunscreen, whitening and other cosmetics applications.

謝誌 I
中文摘要 II
英文摘要 IV
圖目錄 VIII
表目錄 XII
第一章 序論
第一節 前言 1
第二節 研究動機與目的 3
第三節 實驗架構 5
第二章 文獻回顧
第一節 植物介紹 6
一.蓮屬荷花(Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn.) 6
二.睡蓮屬藍花(Nymphaea caerulea) 7
三.睡蓮屬黃花(Nymphaea mexicana Zucc.) 8
第二節 皮膚簡介 10
一.皮膚構造 10
二.皮膚生理功能 12
三.皮膚的老化 13
第三節 自由基簡介 18
第四節 防曬簡介 20
一.物理性防曬劑 21
二.化學性防曬劑 22
三.天然防曬劑 22
第五節 美白簡介 26
一.細胞內的影響因素 26
二.細胞外的影響因素 27
第三章 實驗材料與方法
第一節 儀器與設備 29
第二節 藥品與試劑 30
第三節 植物萃取 33
第四節 活性測試 35
一.清除DPPH．自由基能力測定 35
二.總抗氧化能力（Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity, TEAC） 37
三.DNA電泳評估防護 DNA 作用 40
四.總酚含量（Total phenolic content）測試 42
五.體外抑制酪胺酸酶實驗 44
六.細胞實驗 46
七.UV吸收光譜測試 54
八.防曬配方調製 56
九.防曬化粧品吸光度值及SPF 值儀器測定（體外試驗） 57
十.抑菌試驗 58
十一.配方穩定性測試 61
第四章 結果
第一節 抗氧化測試 62
第二節 總酚含量測試 77
第三節 美白測試 79
第四節 細胞實驗 82
第五節 UV吸收光譜測試 88
第六節 防曬配方測試 102
第七節 抑菌試驗 106
第五章 討論 111
第六章 結論 112
第七章 參考文獻 115

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